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Signs That Your Water Pressure Is Too High

June 24, 2022

If you want to avoid costly household repairs, you should reach out to a plumbing professional, like Your 1 Plumber, to have a detailed inspection before it’s too late.

But how do you determine if your water pressure is too high? Here are some signs that indicate high water pressure.

Leaking pipes

When the water pressure is high, it puts a lot of stress and strain on your plumbing system. Unnecessary strain on the pipelines may cause the joints to loosen up, or the pressure may develop pinhole leakages in the piping. If you don’t get it repaired in time, it may lead to costly water damage to your home and could also cause mold growth.

Water hammer

Another sign of increased water pressure is a loud noise when the bathroom or kitchen faucet is suddenly switched off. Due to its resemblance to a loud hammering noise, this problem is called a water hammer. When the water flow changes its direction or stops abruptly, increased water pressure may cause the pipes to bang with each other.

Besides the loud noise, the water hammer can even break your pipes. Although the noise is much louder in steel piping, the results can also be dangerous if your home has plastic piping.

Damaged appliances

High water pressure affects your dishwasher, washing machine, and water heater. In some cases, you may not be able to claim a warranty if the appliances are affected by water pressure. Inspect your appliances for any leakages or unwanted noises which may indicate that the appliances are suffering from intense wear and tear due to high pressure.

Increasing utility bills

When your water pressure increases, you naturally use more water which results in higher utility bills. If you notice that your utility bills are shooting suddenly or you are paying significantly more than your neighbors, it might be a sign of high water pressure.

If you’re looking for a professional water repair service in Germantown, MD, Your 1 Plumber can help you. We offer a range of professional plumbing services to our clients, including organic drain cleaning services, water line repairs, sewer repairs, and much more.

Common Problems with Your Home Water Heater

June 23, 2022

If you’re someone who cannot live without hot water baths, you wouldn’t want to face any issues with your water heater. A water heater is an invaluable appliance that might not always be visible, but you can never ignore its importance.

Apart from regularly maintaining your water heater, you should always check your appliance for potential issues before it’s too late. Early identification of heater problems can not only save you a lot of money but will also extend its life.

Let’s look at some of the most common water heater issues.

Water leakages

The most common type of water heater issue is a water leak. No matter how good your water heater is, it may eventually start to leak. The reason for water leaks is simple―the water eventually corrodes the tank and develops microscopic fractures and cracks, which can lead to leakages.

However, this is not always a sign of water heater leakage, as sometimes the water may be leaking from the loosened pipe connections. The best way to determine what is causing the leakage is calling a professional plumber for a detailed inspection before it is too late.

No or little hot water

If your water tank is full, but you don’t receive any hot water in your kitchen or bathroom, the issue could be with the source. If you have an electric water heater, there might be some issue with the electrical connections.

Or, if you are using a gas heater, the reason for no hot water could be a fault in your gas connection. If the pilot light on the heater is on, but your gas is not igniting, you may need to repair the burner.

It is always recommended that before you try to fix the issue yourself, you should call an experienced plumber to have a look.

Inconsistent water temperatures

If you are getting water that’s too hot or too cold even after adjusting the thermostat, this may be a sign of a malfunctioning water heater. You may need to replace your thermostat or get it repaired so that it can sense the temperatures currently and you get the right water temperature in each tap.

If you’re looking for a water heater repair service in Frederick, Maryland, Your 1 Plumber can help you. We provide quality plumbing repair and installation services, including waterline repair service, toilet repairs, sewer repairs, and much more.

The Homeowner’s Complete Guide to Plumbing Maintenance

June 8, 2022

The plumbing system in your home can be intricate, and if something goes wrong with it, it can lead to serious repairs to the system. Plus, if something like drain backflow happens, you’ll have dirty water flooding your home, which can damage everything, including furniture and appliances. Naturally, you need to always be careful about keeping your plumbing system in good health. So, here are some tips that can help with that.

Clean the Water Heater

The water heater is essential for your home, and if you’ve had the heater for a while now, you must consider washing it or flushing it clean. That’s because the water that comes to your home has impurities, and they can start settling down on the base of the water tank inside the heater.

Impurities can cause the water to take longer than normal to heat. So, it’s always a useful idea to cut the water supply and let the warm water drain. That water will carry the impurities out, and then you can fill up the tank again.

Clean Fixtures with Vinegar

Vinegar is an amazing cleaning agent, and it can help you clean a lot of things in your home, including bathroom and kitchen faucets and even showerheads. If the holes in your showerhead are clogged, unscrew it from the shower and leave it soaked in vinegar. After that, just put some pressure on the clogged holes, and they should be clean.

Regular Inspections for Leaks

It’s always important to regularly check your water lines and faucets for leaks. Most of the time, these inspections are overlooked, and if you have a water leak that’s not fixed, it can lead to an increase in water bills and water wastage. If you have a busy schedule and cannot do regular inspections yourself, then you can hire us.

We are a plumbing company from Germantown, Maryland, that provides plumbing services across different cities in the state. Our plumbers are experts at electric water heater installations and repairs and faucet installations and repairs. If you’re having drainage problems such as frequent clogging or leaks, we even provide drain cleaning services. So, get in touch with us through email or call and book an appointment.

What Causes Leaky Faucets And How To Prevent It From Happening Again

June 7, 2022

If you’ve started noticing an unexpected rise in your water bills, it may be due to an unnoticed leaky faucet. Leaky faucets aren’t uncommon, with reports suggesting that Americans waste almost 1 trillion gallons of water annually due to leaks. Faucets are one of the most common things that are overlooked when maintaining, and you can never know what their condition is. However, even with regular maintenance, faucets can leak, and some of the causes of those leaks are as follows.

Damaged Cartridge

This type of issue is most common with cartridge-style faucets. Any faucet with two different handles to control hot and cold water is mostly a cartridge-style faucet. The cartridge is essentially the valve on both sides of the handle, and if it’s damaged, it can cause the water to drip. To prevent it from damage, you should always avoid tightening your faucets too hard as it can exert pressure on the cartridge.

Water Pressure

The water pressure in your home is also one of the causes for your faucets to leak. Most faucets are designed to withstand a certain amount of pressure, and if the water pressure increases, then it can cause the faucet to leak. You need to check with your municipal about the water pressure, and if they say that it’s permanent, you’ll need a Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV) in your plumbing system.

Broken Washer

If your faucet is leaking, one of the first things to assume is that the washer is damaged, as it is one of the most common causes for your faucet to leak. Washers are round rubber-shaped items that rest between the valve set, and can deteriorate over time, allowing water to start leaking between them. Even though you cannot prevent the washer from damaging, you can hire us regularly to help replace it with a new one.

You can hire us for other plumbing services as well. We have been in the plumbing industry for more than 15 years and have some of the most experienced plumbers employed. Our plumbers can help with new faucet installations, plumbing installations, water heater services, and water line repair services. So, if you’re looking to get your faucets repaired, then get in touch with us by call or email and book an appointment.

Signs Of Gas Leaks in Your Home

June 6, 2022

The majority of the homes in the US have at least one appliance that relies on natural gas. To protect yourself and your family from the harmful consequences of any potential gas leaks, it’s vital to understand how to identify if there’s a leak in your home.

How to tell if there’s a leak?

Rotten odor

One of the easiest ways to tell if there’s a gas leak in your home is the “rotten egg odor”. Gas companies intentionally add Mercaptan, a chemical that adds a noticeable smell to the natural gas. Although the smell is pungent, it makes it very easy for people to detect a leak before it’s too late.

If you smell any rotten egg or sulfur in your home without any apparent source, it might be an indication that there’s a leak. Call an inspection service immediately!

Fatigue and Sickness

If you’re exposed to a gas leak for a long time, it can induce deadly symptoms such as weakness, sickness, suffocation, nausea, and severe headaches. If you and your family members feel abnormally fatigued and sick, call an ambulance. And get your house checked for any gas leaks.

Irritated skin

An abundance of natural gas in your home can cause numbness and blisters. If you feel that your skin is irritating too often, it might be due to a gas leak in your home. Moreover, exposure to CO may also discolor your skin.

Dead plants or bushes

If a gas leak is not detected for a long time, it can affect the health of your houseplants. As plants need sufficient oxygen to thrive, exposure to natural gas can affect the oxygen level and affect the plants’ health.

If you notice any of the mentioned signs, you must immediately call a plumber to inspect your home for any possible leakage. Your 1 Plumber offers one of the best plumbing services in Columbia. The company offers a 100% money-back guarantee if you’re not satisfied with our services.

Our up-front pricing policy ensures that our customers are aware of all the costs before we start working. We also offer organic drain cleaner service, water line repair, plumbing installation, and much more.

Reasons Why You Could Have Inconsistent Water Supply in Your Home

June 4, 2022

It’s always best to call a plumber to inspect your water supplies in case there’s an underlying issue that could cost you hefty repairs down the road. But you don’t need to worry about an inconsistent water supply too much as it is very common and treatable.

Here are a few common causes why you might be facing an inconsistent water supply.

Limescale buildup

If your area has a supply of hard water (water consisting of high levels of magnesium, calcium, etc.), limescale can sometimes build up inside your water lines. This issue is more prevalent in hot water pipes since limescale is formed when hard water is heated.

When the buildup worsens, it restricts the pipe’s diameter and lowers the water pressure.

Filename: tap

Alt-text: a droplet dripping from a tap

Fault in your pressure regulator

Unless you’re a plumber yourself, you might not be aware of a pressure regulator installed in your home. This particular device helps you convert a high-pressure supply of water from the city into a low-pressure supply that won’t damage your residential piping system.

Old, galvanized pipes

If you have a home that was built in the mid-1900s, then you might be using the old, galvanized steel piping. The galvanized pipes have an anti-rust coat that can last for years. However, when it does wear out, the pipes can easily start to corrode from the insides.

This corrosion may create a thick buildup inside your piping and reduce the diameter of the pipes. This results in lower water pressure in your taps. If you still have galvanized steel pipes, it’s best to go for a replacement.

If you’re experiencing a low water pressure or an inconsistent water supply in your home, you can call our professionals and have your water lines inspected right away. Your 1 Plumber offers one of the best plumbing services in Columbia. Our up-front pricing policy ensures that our customers are aware of all the costs before we start working. We also offer organic drain cleaner service, water line repair, plumbing installation, and much more.

We also company offer a 100% money-back guarantee if you’re not satisfied with our services.

Humidifier Safety Alert

June 28, 2015

Properly care for your room humidifiers – dirty humidifiers may cause health problems!

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) is alerting consumers to possible health hazards resulting from dirty room humidifiers. The CPSC has found that bacteria and fungi often grow in the tanks of portable and console room humidifiers and can be released in the mist. Breathing dirty mist may cause lung problems ranging from flu-like symptoms to serious infection. This information is of special concern to allergy or asthma sufferers whose symptoms may be increased.

Film or scum appearing on the water surface, on the sides or bottom of the tank, or on exposed motor parts may indicate that the humidifier tank contains bacteria or fungi. A crusty deposit or scale may also form within the tank or on parts in the water. This scale is composed of minerals that have settled out of the water creating a surface on which bacteria or fungi may grow.

Minerals can also be released in the mist and settle as fine white dust. This white dust may contain particles that are small enough to enter the lungs. The health effects from inhaling this humidifier dust are not clear, any impact on human health will depend upon the types and amounts of minerals found in the water used.

To reduce the possibility of health hazards from dirty room humidifiers, the staff of the Consumer Product Safety Commission recommends that you take the following precautions:

Do not allow film and scale to develop in your humidifier. If possible, change the water in your room humidifier daily. Empty the tank before you fill it. If the tank is not removable, clean it often according to manufacturer’s instructions.
Use distilled or demineralized water in your room humidifier to reduce the buildup of scale and the release of dust. Do not use tap water because it contains more minerals. Use demineralization cartridges or filters if supplied or recommended for use with your humidifier.
Drain and clean the tank of your room humidifier before you store it. Clean it after summer storage. Remove dust on the outside of your unit.
Clean your room humidifier well and often during the heating season. Be sure to unplug the humidifier before cleaning. Follow the manufacturer’s suggested cleaning methods. If chlorine bleach or other cleaning product or disinfectant is used, make sure to rinse the tank well to avoid breathing harmful chemicals. Use a brush or other scrubber to clean the tank. Be careful not to damage the motor or to scratch the inner surface. Clean or replace sponge filters or belts when needed.
Maintain the relative humidity in your home between 30% and 50% if possible. Humidity levels above 60% may allow moisture to build up indoors and condense on surfaces, where bacteria and fungi can settle and grow. You can measure humidity with an instrument called a hygrometer, available at your local hardware store.

U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission – CPSC Document #5046

Dryer Fire Fact Sheet

June 9, 2015

Statistics and Implications

Dryer exhaust fires now surpass creosote (chimney) fires in frequency on a national level. In 1998, the most recent statistics available, the Consumer Product Safety Commission reports that over 15,600 dryer fires occurred killing 20 people, injuring 370 more and causing over $75.4 million in property damage. According to the CPSC, in most of these cases the culprit was lint getting into the machine’s heating element, sparking and fueling a fire. In response to this growing trend, many dryer manufacturers now employ a device that shuts the appliance down when airflow is obstructed. However, these safeguards are subject to wear and have been known to fail. Not surprisingly, some fire departments and insurance companies now require that dryer vents be inspected and cleaned regularly.
With gas dryers, there is also concern of carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning. Since lint and flue gases use the same avenue of exit from the house, a blocked vent can cause CO fumes to back up into the house. These fumes are colorless and odorless and they can be fatal. Low-level CO poisoning mimics flu symptoms (without the fever): headache, weakness, nausea, disorientation and deep fatigue. At higher levels, occupants can fall asleep, lapse into a coma and die.

Anatomy of a Dryer Fire

Dryer fires usually start beneath the dryer when the motor overheats. Overheating is caused by a build-up of lint in the duct that increases the drying time and blocks the flow of air, just like cholesterol in your arteries can build up and block the flow of blood to your heart. Naturally, any lint that has collected under the dryer will burn and the draft from the dryer will pull that fire up into the duct. Since the duct is coated or even blocked with lint, many times a house fire results. Other contributing conditions may include failure of the thermostat and limit switches in the dryer, lint inside the dryer, a missing or damaged lint screen, a crushed hose behind the dryer, or a bird’s nest or other debris blocking the vent.

Higher Risk Situations

Residential dryer vent lengths may not have an equivalent length greater than 25 feet. Five additional feet for each 90-degree bend must be added to the actual physical length to compute the vent’s equivalent length. This will determine the vent’s actual resistance to the airflow.
Homes with larger families or where dryers are used heavily are at greater risk.
Flexible plastic duct is no longer code-approved for clothes dryers. It is normally one of the first things burning lint will ignite, having been shown to flame in as little as 12 seconds. Lower cost and high flexibility often make it attractive to unadvised homeowners installing their own machines.
Flexible duct made of thin foil is not recommended for clothes dryers. Replace plastic or foil, accordion-type ducting material with rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct. Most manufacturers specify the use of a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct, which provides maximum airflow. The flexible plastic or foil type duct can more easily trap lint and is more susceptible to kinks or crushing, which can greatly reduce the airflow.

Warning Signs of Potential Fire Hazards

Dryer is still producing heat, but taking longer and longer to dry clothes, especially towels and jeans.
Clothes are damp or hotter than usual at the end of the cycle.
Outdoor flapper on vent hood doesn’t open when dryer is on.

Additional Benefits to Dryer Vent Cleaning

Allows your dryer to operate more efficiently, using less energy and saving you money.
Protects your dryer from excess wear and premature death.
Helps clothes dry faster—a time savings for busy families.
Reduces excess household dust and humidity
Helps preserve clothing, as the life of many fabrics is damaged by excessive high heat.

Inspection Frequency

Most vents need cleaning every two to three years. Some dryer vents need attention more often. If it is the first time that a dryer vent has been cleaned, having it re-checked again in a year can help to make a reasonable judgment. Determining factors include:

How heavily the dryer is used
How long the vent is and the materials used. Shorter vents usually blow better.
The age and type of dryer used. Full size dryers blow better than smaller stack dryers or older dryers
The design of the vent. Those with a lot of turns and elbows blow worse and build up more lint.

U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission

How to Install a New Dishwasher

May 7, 2015

Whether you’re replacing your existing dishwasher or simply installing a new one, this is the step-by-step “how to” you’ve been looking for.

If you’re installing a new dishwasher, there are a few “must haves” to complete the job. First is an electrical outlet under the sink or an available circuit rated at 20 Amps coming directly from the electrical panel. Next, a water supply and drain must be close by. And then, of course, you’ll need the available space. If it doesn’t already exist, you may need to remove some under-counter cabinets.

For this article, we’ll assume that you’re replacing an existing dishwasher with a new one.

Some tools you will need to complete this job include:

Screwdriver (Phillips and Straight)
Adjustable Wrench
Electrical Tape
Needle-nose Pliers
Voltage Tester
Level
Slip-joint Pliers
Wire Nuts
Teflon® Tape

Removing the Old Dishwasher

Turn the electrical circuit that supplies power to the dishwasher OFF, or if it is plugged into an outlet, unplug it. Close the water valve that supplies water to the dishwasher.
Unscrew the two screws holding the dishwasher to the countertop. These screws are located right in front of the dishwasher.
Gently slide the dishwasher out from under the counter.
Follow the electrical cord to the junction box, usually on the lower rear side, and remove the cover. Use a voltage tester to ensure the circuit is OFF and disconnect the wiring.
Remove the electrical cord from the junction box and place wire nuts on the ends of each wire, then move the wires so they won’t be in the way.
Under the dishwasher, locate the water inlet line. Remove the nut holding it in place and remove the water line. (Keep a towel handy to soak up any draining water still in the line.)
Under the sink, locate the dishwasher’s drain line and disconnect it from the sink’s drain line or garbage disposer.

Installing the new dishwasher is just as easy as removing the old one. It’s the internal complexities of the dishwasher that makes most people afraid to try installing one themselves – that, and the fact that both plumbing and electricity are involved.

But, as with every installation or replacement, if you follow the directions and always keep safety in mind, you will be surprised at how much you can accomplish!

Installing Your New Dishwasher

Gently place the dishwasher on its back and attach the drain line with the supplied compression clamps. You may need the needle-nose pliers to help open the clamps.
Wrap Teflon® tape around the threads on the water inlet connection and connect the 90 degree brass fitting needed to connect the water line. Then set the dishwasher upright and connect the water line to the 90 degree fitting.
Underneath the dishwasher, you will see a retaining sleeve for the electrical cord to slide through. Slide the cord through and tighten the sleeve.
Remove the cover from the junction box and run the wires through the knockout into the box. Connect the black wire to black wire, using the needle-nose pliers to twist the pair together, and then tighten a wire nut over them. Do the same thing to the white wires. The green or bare ground wire gets tightened to the green ground screw inside the box. Wrap electrical tape around the wires where the wire meets the wire nut. Replace the junction box cover.
Connect the dishwasher’s drain line to the exact spot that the old one was connected, either to the drain line or to the garbage disposer.
Before moving the dishwasher into place, open up the water line to check for leaks.
Finish sliding the dishwasher into place under the counter and use a level to make sure that it’s sitting level. Adjust the legs on the unit to make any corrections.
Screw the top flange of the dishwasher into the bottom of the counter to hold it in place. Install the bottom cover.
Turn the power back on to the circuit or plug in the electrical cord.
With the dishwasher empty, run a cycle and double check again for any leaks.

Not Something You Care to Tackle Yourself?

At Your 1 Plumber, we encourage and foster the DIY spirit in everyone. At the same time, we recognize that jobs like dishwasher installation are NOT for everyone. So if you need a hand with dishwasher replacement and installation, contact us today. And save $25 with the coupon below.

Water Storage

March 11, 2015

What kinds of containers are recommended to store water in?

Make sure the water storage container you plan to use is of food grade quality, such as 2-liter soda bottles, with tight-fitting screw-cap lids. Milk containers are not recommended because they do not seal well.

Should Water be Treated Before Storing It?

If your local water is treated commercially by a water treatment utility, you do not have to treat the water before storing it. Treating commercially-treated water with bleach is superfluous and not necessary. Doing so does not increase storage life. It is important to change and replace stored water every six months or more frequently.

If your local water is not treated commercially by a water treatment facility, that is, if your water comes from a public well or other public, non-treated system, follow instructions about water storage provided by your public health agency or water provider. They may recommend treating it with a small amount of liquid household bleach. Still, it is important to change and replace stored water every six months or more frequently.

If your local water comes from a private well or other private source, consult with your local public health agency about recommendations regarding storage of water. Some water sources have contaminants (minerals or parasites) that can not be neutralized by treatment with liquid household chlorine bleach. Only your local public health agency should make recommendations about whether your local water can be safely stored, for how long, and how to treat it.

Can I Use Bottled Water?

If you plan to use commercially prepared “spring” or “drinking” water, keep the water in its original sealed container. Change and replace the water at least once a year. Once opened, use it and do not store it further.

Source: Red Cross

Hot Water Costs & Cost-Cutters

January 12, 2015

Some ways to save on water-heating bills require greater financial investments than others.

You may wish to consider the no- or low-cost options before making large purchases. Also allow for circumstances that may be unique to your household when deciding on the appropriate options (e.g., a small-capacity washing machine could meet the needs of a one person household efficiently). Although it is not feasible to eliminate water heating in your home, it is possible to substantially reduce water-heating costs without sacrificing comfort and convenience.

Figuring Out How Much You Spend to Heat Your Water

The next time you pay your utility bill, try one simple calculation. Divide the total amount by seven. The result is the amount you spend to heat your water. (If you receive separate utility bills for gas and electricity, use the gas bill for this calculation if you have a gas water heater; use the electric bill if you have an electric water heater.)

Of course, you may think this cost is a small price to pay for the convenience of a hot shower. But during the course of a year, this cost adds up. And when you consider that 95 million households in this country pay the same percentage, it is easy to see how much money—and energy—is used to heat water.

Several measures can help you decrease water-heating costs in your home. Some specific actions include reducing the amount of hot water used, making your water-heating system more energy efficient, and using off-peak power to heat water.

Reducing the Amount of Hot Water Used

Generally, four destination points in the home are recognized as end uses for hot water: faucets, showers, dishwashers, and washing machines. Now, you do not have to take cold showers, dine on dirty dishes, or wear dirty clothes to reduce your hot water consumption. Less radical measures are available that will be virtually unnoticeable once you apply them.

Faucets and Showers

Simply repairing leaks in faucets and showers can save hot water. A leak of one drip per second can cost $1 per month, yet could be repaired in a few minutes for less than that. And some apparently insignificant steps, when practiced routinely at your household, could have significant results. For example, turning the hot-water faucet off while shaving or brushing your teeth, as opposed to letting the water run, can also reduce water-heating costs. Another option is limiting the amount of time you spend in the shower. Other actions may require a small investment of time and money. Installing low-flow shower heads and faucet aerators can save significant amounts of hot water. Low-flow shower heads can reduce hot water consumption for bathing by 30%, yet still provide a strong, invigorating spray.

Faucet aerators, when applied in commercial and multifamily buildings where water is constantly circulated, can also reduce water-heating energy consumption. Older shower heads deliver 4 to 5 gallons (15.1 to 18.9 liters) of water per minute. Although a low-flow shower head delivers slightly less water than a standard shower head, the spray can still be invigorating.

[FS 204 January 1995] sets maximum water flow rates at 2.5 gallons (9.5 liters) per minute at a standard residential water pressure of 80 pounds per square inch (552 kilopascals).

A quick test can help you determine if your shower is a good candidate for a shower head replacement: Turn on the shower to the normal pressure you use, hold a bucket that has been marked in gallon increments under the spray, and time how many seconds it takes to fill the bucket to the 1-gallon (3.8-liter) mark. If it takes less than 20 seconds, you could benefit from a low-flow shower head. A top quality, low-flow shower head will cost $10 to $20 and pay for itself in energy saved within 4 months. Lower quality shower heads may simply restrict water flow, which often results in poor performance.

Because of the different uses of bathroom and kitchen faucets, you may need to have different water flow rates in each location. For bathroom faucets, aerators that deliver 0.5 to 1 gallon (1.9 to 3.8 liters) of water per minute may be sufficient. Kitchen faucets may require a higher flow rate of 2 to 4 gallons (7.6 to 15.1 liters) per minute if you regularly fill the sink for washing dishes. On the other hand, if you tend to let the water run when washing dishes, the lower flow rate of 0.5 to 1 gallon per minute may be more appropriate. Some aerators come with shut-off valves that allow you to stop the flow of water without affecting the temperature.

Automatic Dishwashers

A relatively common assumption is that washing dishes by hand saves hot water. However, washing dishes by hand several times a day could be more expensive than operating some automatic dishwashers. If properly used, an efficient dishwasher can consume less energy than washing dishes by hand, particularly when you only operate the dishwasher with full loads.

The biggest cost of operating a dishwasher comes from the energy required to heat the water before it ever makes it to the machine. Heating water for an automatic dishwasher can represent about 80% of the energy required to run this appliance. Average dishwashers use 8 to 14 gallons (30.3 to 53 liters) of water for a complete wash cycle and require a water temperature of 140°F (60°C) for optimum cleaning.

But, setting your water heater so high could result in excessive standby heat loss. This type of heat loss occurs because water is constantly heated in the storage tank, even when no hot water is used. Furthermore, a water heater temperature of 120°F (48.9°C) is sufficient for other uses of hot water in the home. The question, then, is must you give up effective cleaning for hot water energy savings? The answer is no.

A “booster” heater can increase the temperature of the water entering the dishwasher to the 140°F recommended for cleaning. Some dishwashers have built-in boosters that will automatically raise the water temperature, while others require manual selection before the wash cycle begins. A booster heater can add about $30 to the cost of a new dishwasher but should pay for itself in water-heating energy savings in about 1 year if you also lower your water heater temperature. Reducing the water heater temperature is not advisable, however, if your dishwasher does not have a booster heater.

Another feature that reduces hot-water use in dishwashers is the availability of cycle selections. Shorter cycles require less water, thereby reducing the energy cost. The most efficient dishwasher currently on the market can cost half as much to operate as the most inefficient model.

If you are planning to purchase a new dishwasher, check the EnergyGuide labels and compare the approximate yearly energy costs among brands. Dishwashers fall into one of two categories—compact capacity or standard capacity. Although compact capacity dishwashers may appear to be more energy efficient, they hold fewer dishes and may force you to use the appliance more frequently than you would use a standard-capacity model. In this case, your energy costs could be higher than with the standard-capacity dishwasher.

Turning the hot-water faucet off while shaving or brushing your teeth, as opposed to letting the water run, can reduce water-heating costs. An efficient automatic dishwasher can consume less energy than washing dishes by hand, particularly when you only operate the dishwasher with full loads.

Washing Machines

Like dishwashers, much of the cost—up to 90%—of operating washing machines is associated with the energy needed to heat the water. Unlike dishwashers, washing machines do not require a minimum temperature for optimum cleaning. Either cold or warm water can be used for washing most laundry loads; cold water is always sufficient for rinsing. Make sure you follow the cold-water washing instructions for your particular laundry detergent. Washing only full loads is another good rule of thumb for reducing hot-water consumption in clothes washers. As you would for dishwashers, consult the EnergyGuide labels when shopping for a new washing machine. Inefficient washing machines can cost three times as much to operate as efficient machines. Select a machine that allows you to adjust the water temperature and water levels for the size of the load. Also, front-loading machines use less water and, consequently, less energy than top loaders.

However, in this country, front loaders are not as widely available as top loaders. Keep in mind that the capacity of front loaders may be smaller than that of most top-loading machines.

Smaller capacity washing machines often have better EnergyGuide ratings. However, a reduced capacity might cause you to increase the number of loads you wash and possibly increase your energy costs.

Faucets, shower heads, dishwashers, and washing machines are only destination points for hot water in your home. The journey of your hot water before it reaches these outlets can be fraught with opportunities for energy losses. Fortunately, you can reduce the incidence of water heat loss from the point of departure to the point of arrival by applying a few basic measures.

This document was produced for the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) by the National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL), a DOE national laboratory. DOE/GO-10095-063

Copper Piping

January 4, 2015

Copper is a common, malleable metal that occurs naturally in rock, soil, water, sediment, and air. It is used to make products such as coins, electrical wiring, and water pipes for household plumbing.

Though a small amount of copper is required by the human body as an essential nutrient, long-term exposure to elevated levels of copper in drinking water may cause serious health problems. Research has shown that short periods of exposure to high levels of copper can cause gastrointestinal disturbance, including nausea and vomiting. Using water with elevated levels of copper over many years may cause liver or kidney damage.

Corroding pipes and brass components of household piping systems are the primary source of copper in drinking water. Signs that drinking water may have elevated levels of copper include a metallic taste or blue to blue-green stains around sinks and plumbing fixtures. The corrosion leads to the release of copper ions and the deposit of corrosion by products on the pipe wall. The solubility of these by-products ultimately determines the level of copper at our taps. The only way to accurately determine the level of copper in drinking water is to have the water tested by a state certified laboratory.

There are two types of copper corrosion: uniform and nonuniform. Both types are caused by certain characteristics of water chemistry, including low pH, high alkalinity, and the presence of sulfates or nitrates.

Uniform corrosion is identified by the presence of a relatively uniform deposition of copper corrosion by-products across the inner surface of a pipe wall and is typically associated with elevated copper levels at our taps.

Nonuniform corrosion, or pitting, is the isolated development of corrosion cells across the inner surface of a pipe wall. Although pitting corrosion is seldom associated with elevated levels of copper at our taps, excessive pitting corrosion can lead to “pinhole” leaks in the pipe, which could result in water damage and mold growth.

Regulations

In 1991, EPA published the Lead and Copper Rule. This rule minimizes lead and copper levels in drinking water, primarily by reducing water corrosivity. It establishes an Action Level of 0.015 milligrams per liter (mg/L) for lead and 1.3 mg/L for copper in 90 percent of the first-draw water samples standing for more than six hours and taken at sites meeting particular number, age, and plumbing material requirements. The Action Level is the lowest level to which water utilities can reasonably be required to control lead if it occurs in drinking water at their customers’ home taps. (Note: An Action Level exceedance is not a violation but can trigger other requirements such as monitoring and treatment.)

These regulations are called the National Primary Drinking Water Regulations. All public water utilities must abide by them.

Source: U.S. Environmental Protection Agency

A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture, and Your Home

December 29, 2014

Mold Basics
Mold Cleanup
Mold Cleanup Guidelines
What to Wear When Cleaning Moldy Areas
Moisture and Mold Prevention and Control Tips
Hidden Mold
Additional Resources

Mold Basics

The key to mold control is moisture control.
If mold is a problem in your home, you should clean up the mold promptly and fix the water problem.
It is important to dry water-damaged areas and items within 24-48 hours to prevent mold growth.

Why is Mold Growing in My Home?

Molds are part of the natural environment. Outdoors, molds play a part in nature by breaking down dead organic matter such as fallen leaves and dead trees, but indoors, mold growth should be avoided. Molds reproduce by means of tiny spores; the spores are invisible to the naked eye and float through outdoor and indoor air. Mold may begin growing indoors when mold spores land on surfaces that are wet. There are many types of mold, and none of them will grow without water or moisture.

Can Mold Cause Health Problems?

Molds are usually not a problem indoors, unless mold spores land on a wet or damp spot and begin growing. Molds have the potential to cause health problems. Molds produce allergens (substances that can cause allergic reactions), irritants, and in some cases, potentially toxic substances (mycotoxins). Inhaling or touching mold or mold spores may cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. Allergic responses include hay fever-type symptoms, such as sneezing, runny nose, red eyes, and skin rash (dermatitis). Allergic reactions to mold are common. They can be immediate or delayed. Molds can also cause asthma attacks in people with asthma who are allergic to mold. In addition, mold exposure can irritate the eyes, skin, nose, throat, and lungs of both mold-allergic and non-allergic people. Symptoms other than the allergic and irritant types are not commonly reported as a result of inhaling mold. Research on mold and health effects is ongoing. This brochure provides a brief overview; it does not describe all potential health effects related to mold exposure. For more detailed information consult a health professional. You may also wish to consult your state or local health department.

How Do I Get Rid of Mold?

It is impossible to get rid of all mold and mold spores indoors; some mold spores will be found floating through the air and in house dust. The mold spores will not grow if moisture is not present. Indoor mold growth can and should be prevented or controlled by controlling moisture indoors. If there is mold growth in your home, you must clean up the mold and fix the water problem. If you clean up the mold, but don’t fix the water problem, then, most likely, the mold problem will come back.

Mold Cleanup

Who Should Do the Clean Up? Who should do the cleanup depends on a number of factors. One consideration is the size of the mold problem. If the moldy area is less than about 10 square feet (less than roughly a 3 ft. by 3 ft. patch), in most cases, you can handle the job yourself, following the guidelines below. However:

If there has been a lot of water damage, and/or mold growth covers more than 10 square feet, consult the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) guide: Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings. Although focused on schools and commercial buildings, this document is applicable to other building types. It is available free by calling the EPA Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse at (800) 438-4318, or on the Internet at epa.gov/iaq/molds/.
If you choose to hire a contractor (or other professional service provider) to do the cleanup, make sure the contractor has experience cleaning up mold. Check references and ask the contractor to follow the recommendations in EPA’s Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings, the guidelines of the American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygenists (ACGIH), or other guidelines from professional or government organizations.
If you suspect that the heating/ventilation/air conditioning (HVAC) system may be contaminated with mold (it is part of an identified moisture problem, for instance, or there is mold near the intake to the system), consult EPA’s guide Should You Have the Air Ducts in Your Home Cleaned? before taking further action. Do not run the HVAC system if you know or suspect that it is contaminated with mold – it could spread mold throughout the building. Visit epa.gov/iaq/pubs/airduct.html, or call (800) 438-4318 for a free copy.
If the water and/or mold damage was caused by sewage or other contaminated water, then call in a professional who has experience cleaning and fixing buildings damaged by contaminated water.
If you have health concerns, consult a health professional before starting cleanup.

Mold Cleanup Guidelines

The tips and techniques presented in this section will help you clean up your mold problem. Professional cleaners or remediators may use methods not covered in this publication. Please note that mold may cause staining and cosmetic damage. It may not be possible to clean an item so that its original appearance is restored.

Fix plumbing leaks and other water problems as soon as possible. Dry all items completely.
Scrub mold off hard surfaces with detergent and water, and dry completely.
Absorbent or porous materials, such as ceiling tiles and carpet, may have to be thrown away if they become moldy. Mold can grow on or fill in the empty spaces and crevices of porous materials, so the mold may be difficult or impossible to remove completely.
Avoid exposing yourself or others to mold (see discussions: What to Wear When Cleaning Moldy Areas and Hidden Mold).
Do not paint or caulk moldy surfaces. Clean up the mold and dry the surfaces before painting. Paint applied over moldy surfaces is likely to peel.
If you are unsure about how to clean an item, or if the item is expensive or of sentimental value, you may wish to consult a specialist. Specialists in furniture repair, restoration, painting, art restoration and conservation, carpet and rug cleaning, water damage, and fire or water restoration are commonly listed in phone books.

Be sure to ask for and check references. Look for specialists who are affiliated with professional organizations.

What to Wear When Cleaning Moldy Areas

Avoid breathing in mold or mold spores. In order to limit your exposure to airborne mold, you may want to wear an N-95 respirator, available at many hardware stores and from companies that advertise on the Internet. (They cost about $12 to $25.) Some N-95 respirators resemble a paper dust mask with a nozzle on the front, others are made primarily of plastic or rubber and have removable cartridges that trap most of the mold spores from entering. In order to be effective, the respirator or mask must fit properly, so carefully follow the instructions supplied with the respirator. Please note that the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) requires that respirators fit properly (fit testing) when used in an occupational setting; consult OSHA for more information (800-321-OSHA or osha.gov/ ).
Wear gloves. Long gloves that extend to the middle of the forearm are recommended. When working with water and a mild detergent, ordinary household rubber gloves may be used. If you are using a disinfectant, a biocide such as chlorine bleach, or a strong cleaning solution, you should select gloves made from natural rubber, neoprene, nitrile, polyurethane, or PVC (see Cleanup and Biocides). Avoid touching mold or moldy items with your bare hands.
Wear goggles. Goggles that do not have ventilation holes are recommended. Avoid getting mold or mold spores in your eyes.

How Do I Know When the Remediation or Cleanup is Finished?

You must have completely fixed the water or moisture problem before the cleanup or remediation can be considered finished.

You should have completed mold removal. Visible mold and moldy odors should not be present. Please note that mold may cause staining and cosmetic damage
You should have revisited the site(s) shortly after cleanup and it should show no signs of water damage or mold growth.
People should have been able to occupy or re-occupy the area without health complaints or physical symptoms.
Ultimately, this is a judgment call; there is no easy answer. If you have concerns or questions call the EPA Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse at (800) 438-4318.

Moisture and Mold Prevention and Control Tips

Moisture control is the key to mold control, so when water leaks or spills occur indoors – ACT QUICKLY. If wet or damp materials or areas are dried 24-48 hours after a leak or spill happens, in most cases mold will not grow.
Clean and repair roof gutters regularly.
Make sure the ground slopes away from the building foundation, so that water does not enter or collect around the foundation.
Keep air conditioning drip pans clean and the drain lines unobstructed and flowing properly.
Keep indoor humidity low. If possible, keep indoor humidity below 60 percent (ideally between 30 and 50 percent) relative humidity. Relative humidity can be measured with a moisture or humidity meter, a small, inexpensive ($10-$50) instrument available at many hardware stores.
If you see condensation or moisture collecting on windows, walls or pipes ACT QUICKLY to dry the wet surface and reduce the moisture/water source. Condensation can be a sign of high humidity.

Actions That Will Help to Reduce Humidity

Vent appliances that produce moisture, such as clothes dryers, stoves, and kerosene heaters to the outside where possible. (Combustion appliances such as stoves and kerosene heaters produce water vapor and will increase the humidity unless vented to the outside.)
Use air conditioners and/or de-humidifiers when needed.

Run the bathroom fan or open the window when showering. Use exhaust fans or open windows whenever cooking, running the dishwasher or dishwashing, etc.

Actions That Will Help Prevent Condensation

Reduce the humidity (see above).
Increase ventilation or air movement by opening doors and/or windows, when practical. Use fans as needed.
Cover cold surfaces, such as cold water pipes, with insulation.
Increase air temperature.

Hidden Mold

Suspicion of Hidden Mold

You may suspect hidden mold if a building smells moldy, but you cannot see the source, or if you know there has been water damage and residents are reporting health problems. Mold may be hidden in places such as the back side of dry wall, wallpaper, or paneling, the top side of ceiling tiles, the underside of carpets and pads, etc. Other possible locations of hidden mold include areas inside walls around pipes (with leaking or condensing pipes), the surface of walls behind furniture (where condensation forms), inside ductwork, and in roof materials above ceiling tiles (due to roof leaks or insufficient insulation).

Investigating hidden mold problems

Investigating hidden mold problems may be difficult and will require caution when the investigation involves disturbing potential sites of mold growth. For example, removal of wallpaper can lead to a massive release of spores if there is mold growing on the underside of the paper. If you believe that you may have a hidden mold problem, consider hiring an experienced professional.

Cleanup and Biocides

Biocides are substances that can destroy living organisms. The use of a chemical or biocide that kills organisms such as mold (chlorine bleach, for example) is not recommended as a routine practice during mold cleanup. There may be instances, however, when professional judgment may indicate its use (for example, when immune-compromised individuals are present). In most cases, it is not possible or desirable to sterilize an area; a background level of mold spores will remain – these spores will not grow if the moisture problem has been resolved. If you choose to use disinfectants or biocides, always ventilate the area and exhaust the air to the outdoors. Never mix chlorine bleach solution with other cleaning solutions or detergents that contain ammonia because toxic fumes could be produced.

Please note: Dead mold may still cause allergic reactions in some people, so it is not enough to simply kill the mold, it must also be removed.

Additional Resources

For more information on mold related issues including mold cleanup and moisture control/condensation/humidity issues, you can call the EPA Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse at (800) 438-4318.

EPA’s Mold Resources page (http://www.epa.gov/iaq/molds)
The EPA publication, Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings (EPA 402-K-01-001, March 2001), is available.
Other Indoor Air Quality Publications – www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs

EPA’s “A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisure, and Your Home” (PDF, 2 pp, 245KB)

Mold, Mildew & Safety Issues

December 3, 2014

Molds, mildew and fungus are microorganisms. They are found in damp surfaces like bathroom walls, window trims, and in places where water can accumulate like basements that flood.

Mold and fungus organisms will grow on materials that get dampened by water leaks and/or condensation.

They can look like black stains, or specks of black, white, orange, green, or brown. These types of microorganisms can cause infections, allergies, asthma, and other breathing problems. There are many types of molds. Take a tour of your home and look for the following;

Leaks in your roof or plumbing – Any water that is trapped inside walls or under carpeting will cause molds to grow there. In not so obvious places, check to see if your walls or rugs have light stains or a strong musty smell.
Mold in your basement – Rain or moisture can penetrate your home’s concrete foundation and make the bottom of carpets or inside of finished walls moldy.
Dampness at the base of the walls.
Rust at the base of steel posts or heaters.
Stains, discoloration or decay on wood partitions, paneling, drywall and wood posts.
White powdery substance on the concrete.
Peeling floor tiles.
Mildewed carpeting.

If you find a leak in your roof or plumbing, mold in any area of your home or flooding in your basement, don’t panic! There are steps to take to clean and disinfect the areas that have been affected. Although cleaning walls and floors is laboring and time consuming it is necessary to do it properly to get the best results. If you are unable to remove the mold or do not want to attempt to remove it, seek the services of a mold removal company. But remember, it must be done. The effects of mold are very dangerous so make sure to deal with the problem.

Types of Mold

There are many types of mold, some of which can be just a mild nuisance while others can be toxic and can produce serious health problems to those who are exposed to it.

The issue of mold contamination poses a serious health threat for many people who may or may not be aware that they are possibly at risk in their homes, schools and workplaces.

Toxic Mold

Some types of mold may contain mycotoxins that can be life-threatening to everyone especially infants, the elderly and any person with immune system deficiencies.

Stachybotrys chartarum is a type of toxic mold which will grow anywhere indoors where there is moisture. This type of mold is most commonly found in homes or buildings that have sustained flooding or water damage, roof, wall or floor leaks or condensation.

It continues to grow as long as the area remains damp or wet.

It is usually black in appearance (but can be other colors), slightly shiny at first and powdery when dry.

The World Health Organization and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency have raised concerns about the dangers of poor air quality and how it is related to SBS (sick building syndrome.)

Common Places to Find Toxic Mold

Paper covering of gypsum wall board
Wallpaper
Cellulose based ceiling tiles
Paper products
Carpets with natural fibers
Paper covering on insulated pipes
Insulation material
Wood and wood paneling
General organic debris
Paper covering on fiberglass insulation

Mild symptoms to mold exposure can produce flu-like discomforts such as a stuffy nose, eye irritation or wheezing. Severe reactions occur when people are exposed to large amounts of mold which may cause fever and shortness of breath. Those with chronic mold exposure may suffer from obstructive lung disease or lung infections.

Common Types of Indoor Mold

Cladosporium
Penicillium
Aspergillus
Alternaria

Effects of Mold

Mold is present both indoors and outdoors. It is likely to grow in areas where water and dampness are present.

Mold most commonly grows in the following places:

Basements
Kitchens
Bathrooms
Closets
Clothing
Carpeting
Wallpaper
Furniture
Plants
Cement walls
Food

The effects of mold can be damaging. Not only can mold cause great damage to the area that it grows in, but it can also affect the health of those who are exposed to it.

These are some of the possible effects of mold to be cautious of:

Effects on Air Quality – Everyone is exposed to mold on a daily basis without harm. However, mold spores can become dangerous when they enter the air and are inhaled in large numbers.
The effects of mold on air quality are suspected as being the cause of a variety of inhalation exposure illnesses such as asthma and sinusitis.

Common symptoms of these illnesses include:

respiratory problems
nasal and sinus congestion
eye-burning, blurry vision, light sensitivity
severely dry cough
sore throat
shortness of breath

A physician should be consulted if you suspect that you are suffering from an inhalation exposure illness.

Mold in Furniture – A piece of furniture may become contaminated by mold if it has come into contact with excessive moisture or with settled mold spores. These settled spores might aggravate allergies in some people.

It is highly recommended that affected furniture be removed from the home in order to improve the air quality and reduce the risk of respiratory illnesses.

Cleaning the furniture can not ensure the complete removal of mold. Such items as couches and mattresses must be specially treated in order to completely remove mold. With such items as bed pillows, throw pillows, and stuffed animals, however, it may be more cost effective to dispose of the items than to treat them.

Mold in Wallpaper – In warm environment, vinyl wallpaper can trap moisture-filled air. The trapped moisture serves as a breeding ground for mold. The mold will eat the drywall, the glue that holds the wallpaper, and the wallpaper itself.

It is always a good idea to use paint or apply wall-coverings with permeable paper backings that do not trap moisture on exterior walls.

Mold in Clothing – Mold can be found in damp-ridden clothing. Wearing contaminated clothing may cause allergies and skin irritations.

In order to properly clean mold from clothing follow these directions:

Fill the washing machine up with water
Pour in 20 mule team borax and hydrogen peroxide
Put clothing into the machine and let them spin for 2 minutes
Stop the spin cycle, and let clothes soak for about 4 hours
Allow clothes to go through normal wash cycle

When cycle is finished, it is recommended that these directions be followed a second time.

Mold in Carpeting – Carpeting that was saturated with water (i.e. from a flood) will most likely grow mold. If the carpet is not removed immediately following saturation, mold spores will settle and affect the air quality of your home. Respiratory problems are a common cause of carpet mold.

Carpet cleaning will not kill the mold. All wet or damp carpeting must be ripped out and thrown away. The longer the carpeting remains in your home, the worse the mold problem will be.

Mold Treatment

Fabrics

Beds and carpeting should always be discarded. These items cannot be cleaned.
Draperies and clothing can be saved by washing or dry cleaning.
Floors and Walls
Moldy walls, ceilings, and floors must be washed more than once to properly clean and disinfect.
Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands.
After cleaning, the surface should be allowed to thoroughly dry.
Wash the walls, ceilings, or floors again using a mixture of liquid household chlorine bleach and water.

If you have water in your basement, remove as many items as possible furniture, carpeting, and stored boxes of clothing or appliances. Use a disinfectant or chlorine bleach solution to scrub walls, paneling, and sheet rock.

Controlling Condensation

There are two ways to control condensation; insulation and dehumidification. Here are some ways to help keep your basement dry.

Use a fan to circulate basement air.
Use a humidifier to remove excess moisture in the air.
Do not keep wet clothing or materials around the house, use a dryer or clothesline to dry them.
If your basement is damp, get a dehumidifier to remove moisture from the air.
Air conditioners are great for the summer months; they remove some moisture as well as cool the air.
Rugs are better than carpeting for basements because they can be removed and cleaned easier and lessen the headache when there is water damage to your basement (although a sump pump will prevent flooding altogether).

Solutions

Always keep your home as dry as possible.
Do not wait to make repairs on your roof and plumbing leaks.
Using a sump pump is the best device to keep water out of your basement.
Never ignore the dangers and effects of mold.

Source: www.sump-pump-info.com

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