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Experts Warn Flood-Damaged Appliances Should Be Replaced

What you need to know about HVACR equipment affected by flooding

Floods and HVACR Equipment

After a flood or storm surge from a hurricane, homeowners are advised to take important safety precautions with regard to their home’s heating and cooling systems. A house or basement exposed to standing water can damage your home’s water heater, furnace, boiler, air-conditioning, ventilation, and heat pump system — putting your family at risk.

Replace, Don’t Repair

Flood-damaged heating and cooling equipment and systems should be replaced and not repaired, according to AHRI. All inspection and replacement work on flooded equipment should be performed by qualified heating and cooling contractors, not by homeowners. You can turn misfortune into opportunity by considering new, energy-efficient models that will lower your future energy bills. Also ask your local utility about available rebates for new energy-efficient gas or propane furnaces.

Ductwork

If you have a central forced-air furnace in the house you are repairing, pay attention to your ductwork too. A qualified heating contractor will not try to salvage duct insulation that has been in contact with flood water, but will replace it because it is impossible to decontaminate. Your contractor also will clean, dry and disinfect the ductwork. Doing a thorough job will require disassembling the ductwork. These repairs to your ductwork also give your contractor the opportunity seal joints in the ductwork and improve insulation to reduce heat loss.

Gas Furnaces and Boilers

If there is any question whether flood water has reached a gas appliance, have the unit checked by a qualified heating contractor. Natural gas furnaces, space heaters and boilers all have gas valves and controls that are especially vulnerable to water damage from floods and that damage may not be easy to detect. Corrosion begins inside the valves and controls, and damage may not be readily visible, even if the outside of the device is clean and dry. At a minimum, this damage can result in reliability problems.

Electric Furnaces

An electric furnace consists of electrically heated coils, a fan to provide air circulation across the coils, and controls which include safety relays. Just like the gas-fired warm-air furnace, the electric furnace is susceptible to corrosion and damage, resulting in reliability problems or safety hazards. If there is any question whether flood water has reached an electric furnace, have the unit checked by a qualified heating contractor.

Propane Heating

Use extreme caution when there is the potential for propane leaks and get propane equipment checked, repaired and/or replaced by a qualified heating contractor as quickly as possible after a flood. In every case, your contractor must replace all valves and controls that have been in contact with flood water. Propane systems also require attention to their gas pressure regulator. This regulator contains a small vent hole in its body to sense outside pressure. For effective gas pressure regulation, this hole must always remain unobstructed. During a flood, debris can easily plug the hole, causing dangerous malfunction or corrosion. The regulator should be replaced, as water from floods can carry corrosive chemicals.

Radiant Ceiling Heat

In this type of heating system, electrically-heated cables are embedded in the plaster or drywall ceiling. The cables warm the ceiling, which in turn warms the room by radiant heat. If the ceiling becomes wet from a flood, the plasterboard will weaken and perhaps crack, and the ceiling will need replacement. Although the electrical cables themselves may appear to be undamaged due to their tough, waterproof coating, there may have been large mechanical stresses on the cable, and a qualified electrician should be consulted to determine whether the cable is reusable.

Heat Pumps and Air Conditioning Systems

Split air conditioning and heat pump systems have power and control wiring between the indoor and outdoor parts of the system, and the piping that moves the refrigerant from inside to outside the home and back.

Even if the system is in contact with flood water for a long period, this sealed system is likely to remain intact. However, if flood water has repositioned either the indoor or outdoor units of a split system by only a small amount, there is the potential for a breached refrigerant system. The heat pump (or air conditioning system) will then require major repair or full replacement.

If the refrigerant system remains intact after the flood, the entire system should be cleaned, dried, and disinfected. You should have a qualified heating and cooling contractor check all electrical and refrigeration connections for both indoor and outdoor units, including all control circuits. The decision to repair or replace should be made by a qualified professional on a case-by-case basis.

Water Heating Systems

Whether your water heater is gas-fired, oil-fired or electric, if it was exposed to flood water, the unit should be replaced. A new water heater is a relatively small investment, and replacing it is fairly easy to do.

In a gas unit, valves and controls will likely corrode. In an electric unit, the thermostat and controls will likely corrode. In both types, the insulation surrounding the unit will be contaminated and will be nearly impossible to disinfect. Additionally, the insulation would take a long time to dry, leading to corrosion of the tank from the outside.

Even if water heater components have been cleaned and the unit seems to operate properly, parts may corrode in the future. Both gas and electric water heaters have a pressure relief valve that can corrode and stick after being exposed to flood water. Be sure, therefore, to replace this valve as well.

Government Aid

For victims of some natural disasters, government aid may be available to help consumers finance the replacement of flood-damaged HVAC equipment. Homeowners should contact any of the offices of the Federal Emergency Management Agency (www.fema.gov) set up to help flood victims in your area.

© AHRI – Air-Conditioning, Heating & Refrigeration Institute

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Mold Resources

Introduction to Molds

Molds produce tiny spores to reproduce. Mold spores waft through the indoor and outdoor air continually. When mold spores land on a damp spot indoors, they may begin growing and digesting whatever they are growing on in order to survive. There are molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, and foods. When excessive moisture or water accumulates indoors, mold growth will often occur, particularly if the moisture problem remains undiscovered or unaddressed. There is no practical way to eliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment; the way to control indoor mold growth is to control moisture.

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Basic Mold Cleanup

The key to mold control is moisture control. It is important to dry water damaged areas and items within 24-48 hours to prevent mold growth. If mold is a problem in your home, clean up the mold and get rid of the excess water or moisture. Fix leaky plumbing or other sources of water. Wash mold off hard surfaces with detergent and water, and dry completely. Absorbent materials (such as ceiling tiles & carpet) that become moldy may have to be replaced.

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Ten Things You Should Know About Mold

  1. Potential health effects and symptoms associated with mold exposures include allergic reactions, asthma, and other respiratory complaints.
  2. There is no practical way to eliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment; the way to control indoor mold growth is to control moisture.
  3. If mold is a problem in your home or school, you must clean up the mold and eliminate sources of moisture.
  4. Fix the source of the water problem or leak to prevent mold growth.
  5. Reduce indoor humidity (to 30-60% ) to decrease mold growth by: venting bathrooms, dryers, and other moisture-generating sources to the outside; using air conditioners and de-humidifiers; increasing ventilation; and using exhaust fans whenever cooking, dishwashing, and cleaning.
  6. Clean and dry any damp or wet building materials and furnishings within 24-48 hours to prevent mold growth.
  7. Clean mold off hard surfaces with water and detergent, and dry completely. Absorbent materials such as ceiling tiles, that are moldy, may need to be replaced.
  8. Prevent condensation: Reduce the potential for condensation on cold surfaces (i.e., windows, piping, exterior walls, roof, or floors) by adding insulation.
  9. In areas where there is a perpetual moisture problem, do not install carpeting (i.e., by drinking fountains, by classroom sinks, or on concrete floors with leaks or frequent condensation).
  10. Molds can be found almost anywhere; they can grow on virtually any substance, providing moisture is present. There are molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, and foods.

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Asthma and Mold

Molds can trigger asthma episodes in sensitive individuals with asthma. People with asthma should avoid contact with or exposure to molds.

  • Allergy & Asthma Network/Mothers of Asthmatics (AAN/MA): (800) 878-4403; http://www.aanma.org/
  • American Academy of Allergy, Asthma & Immunology (AAAAI): www.aaaai.org
  • American Lung Association: 1-800-LUNG-USA (1-800-586-4872); http://www.lungusa.org/
  • Asthma & Allergy Foundation of America: (800) 7ASTHMA; http://www.aafa.org/
  • Canada Mortgage & Housing Corporation “Fighting Mold – The Homeowner’s Guide”
  • National Institute of Allergy and Infectious Diseases: http://www.niaid.nih.gov/
  • National Jewish Medical and Research Center: (800) 222-LUNG (5864)

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Floods/Flooding

Mold growth may be a problem after flooding. EPA’s Fact Sheet: Flood Cleanup: Avoiding Indoor Air Quality Problems– discusses steps to take when cleaning and repairing a home after flooding. Excess moisture in the home is cause for concern about indoor air quality primarily because it provides breeding conditions for microorganisms. This fact sheet provides tips to avoid creating indoor air quality problems during cleanup. U.S. EPA, EPA Document Number 402-F-93-005, August 1993.

Additional Resources:

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Health and Mold

How do molds affect people?

Some people are sensitive to molds. For these people, exposure to molds can cause symptoms such as nasal stuffiness, eye irritation, wheezing, or skin irritation. Some people, such as those with serious allergies to molds, may have more severe reactions. Severe reactions may occur among workers exposed to large amounts of molds in occupational settings, such as farmers working around moldy hay. Severe reactions may include fever and shortness of breath. Some people with chronic lung illnesses, such as obstructive lung disease, may develop mold infections in their lungs.

EPA’s publication, Indoor Air Pollution: An Introduction for Health Professionals, assists health professionals (especially the primary care physician) in diagnosis of patient symptoms that could be related to an indoor air pollution problem. It addresses the health problems that may be caused by contaminants encountered daily in the home and office. Organized according to pollutant or pollutant groups such as environmental tobacco smoke, VOCs, biological pollutants, and sick building syndrome, this booklet lists key signs and symptoms from exposure to these pollutants, provides a diagnostic checklist and quick reference summary, and includes suggestions for remedial action. Also includes references for information contained in each section. This booklet was developed by the American Lung Association, the American Medical Association, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, and the EPA. EPA Document Reference Number 402-R-94-007, 1994.

Allergic Reactions – excerpted from Indoor Air Pollution: An Introduction for Health Professionals section on: Animal Dander, Molds, Dust Mites, Other Biologicals.

“A major concern associated with exposure to biological pollutants is allergic reactions, which range from rhinitis, nasal congestion, conjunctival inflammation, and urticaria to asthma. Notable triggers for these diseases are allergens derived from house dust mites; other arthropods, including cockroaches; pets (cats, dogs, birds, rodents); molds; and protein-containing furnishings, including feathers, kapok, etc. In occupational settings, more unusual allergens (e.g., bacterial enzymes, algae) have caused asthma epidemics. Probably most proteins of non-human origin can cause asthma in a subset of any appropriately exposed population.”

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Homes and Mold

The EPA publication, “A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture, and Your Home”, and Spanish (PDF, 20 pp, 796KB). This Guide provides information and guidance for homeowners and renters on how to clean up residential mold problems and how to prevent mold growth.

Biological Pollutants in Your Home – This document explains indoor biological pollution, health effects of biological pollutants, and how to control their growth and buildup. One third to one half of all structures have damp conditions that may encourage development of pollutants such as molds and bacteria, which can cause allergic reactions — including asthma — and spread infectious diseases. Describes corrective measures for achieving moisture control and cleanliness. This brochure was prepared by the American Lung Association and the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission. The publication was updated by CPSC in 1997

Moisture control is the key to mold control, the Moisture Control Section from Biological Pollutants in Your Home follows:

Moisture Control

Water in your home can come from many sources. Water can enter your home by leaking or by seeping through basement floors. Showers or even cooking can add moisture to the air in your home. The amount of moisture that the air in your home can hold depends on the temperature of the air. As the temperature goes down, the air is able to hold less moisture. This is why, in cold weather, moisture condenses on cold surfaces (for example, drops of water form on the inside of a window). This moisture can encourage biological pollutants to grow.

There Are Many Ways to Control Moisture in Your Home:

  • Fix leaks and seepage. If water is entering the house from the outside, your options range from simple landscaping to extensive excavation and waterproofing. (The ground should slope away from the house.) Water in the basement can result from the lack of gutters or a water flow toward the house. Water leaks in pipes or around tubs and sinks can provide a place for biological pollutants to grow.
  • Put a plastic cover over dirt in crawlspaces to prevent moisture from coming in from the ground. Be sure crawlspaces are well-ventilated.
  • Use exhaust fans in bathrooms and kitchens to remove moisture to the outside (not into the attic). Vent your clothes dryer to the outside.
  • Turn off certain appliances (such as humidifiers or kerosene heaters) if you notice moisture on windows and other surfaces.
  • Use dehumidifiers and air conditioners, especially in hot, humid climates, to reduce moisture in the air, but be sure that the appliances themselves don’t become sources of biological pollutants.
  • Raise the temperature of cold surfaces where moisture condenses. Use insulation or storm windows. (A storm window installed on the inside works better than one installed on the outside.) Open doors between rooms (especially doors to closets which may be colder than the rooms) to increase circulation. Circulation carries heat to the cold surfaces. Increase air circulation by using fans and by moving furniture from wall corners to promote air and heat circulation. Be sure that your house has a source of fresh air and can expel excessive moisture from the home.
  • Pay special attention to carpet on concrete floors. Carpet can absorb moisture and serve as a place for biological pollutants to grow. Use area rugs which can be taken up and washed often. In certain climates, if carpet is to be installed over a concrete floor, it may be necessary to use a vapor barrier (plastic sheeting) over the concrete and cover that with sub-flooring (insulation covered with plywood) to prevent a moisture problem.
  • Moisture problems and their solutions differ from one climate to another. The Northeast is cold and wet; the Southwest is hot and dry; the South is hot and wet; and the Western Mountain states are cold and dry. All of these regions can have moisture problems. For example, evaporative coolers used in the Southwest can encourage the growth of biological pollutants. In other hot regions, the use of air conditioners which cool the air too quickly may prevent the air conditioners from running long enough to remove excess moisture from the air. The types of construction and weatherization for the different climates can lead to different problems and solutions.

Moisture on Windows

Your humidistat is set too high if excessive moisture collects on windows and other cold surfaces. Excess humidity for a prolonged time can damage walls especially when outdoor air temperatures are very low. Excess moisture condenses on window glass because the glass is cold. Other sources of excess moisture besides overuse of a humidifier may be long showers, running water for other uses, boiling or steaming in cooking, plants, and drying clothes indoors. A tight, energy efficient house holds more moisture inside; you may need to run a kitchen or bath ventilating fan sometimes, or open a window briefly. Storm windows and caulking around windows keep the interior glass warmer and reduce condensation of moisture there.

Humidifiers are not recommended for use in buildings without proper vapor barriers because of potential damage from moisture buildup. Consult a building contractor to determine the adequacy of the vapor barrier in your house. Use a humidity indicator to measure the relative humidity in your house. The American Society of Heating and Air Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) recommends these maximum indoor humidity levels.

Outdoor Recommended Indoor Temperature Relative Humidity

+20º F35%
+10º F30%
0º F25%
-10º F20%
-20º F15%

Source: Anne Field, Extension Specialist, Emeritus, with reference from the Association for Home Appliance Manufacturers (http://www.aham.org/).

How to Identify the Cause of a Mold and Mildew Problem

Mold and mildew are commonly found on the exterior wall surfaces of corner rooms in heating climate locations. An exposed corner room is likely to be significantly colder than adjoining rooms, so that it has a higher relative humidity (RH) than other rooms at the same water vapor pressure. If mold and mildew growth are found in a corner room, then relative humidity next to the room surfaces is above 70%. However, is the RH above 70% at the surfaces because the room is too cold or because there is too much moisture present (high water vapor pressure)?

The amount of moisture in the room can be estimated by measuring both temperature and RH at the same location and at the same time. Suppose there are two cases. In the first case, assume that the RH is 30% and the temperature is 70º F in the middle of the room. The low RH at that temperature indicates that the water vapor pressure (or absolute humidity) is low. The high surface RH is probably due to room surfaces that are “too cold.” Temperature is the dominating factor, and control strategies should involve increasing the temperature at cold room surfaces.

In the second case, assume that the RH is 50% and the temperature is 70oF in the middle of the room. The higher RH at that temperature indicates that the water vapor pressure is high and there is a relatively large amount of moisture in the air. The high surface RH is probably due to air that is “too moist.” Humidity is the dominating factor, and control strategies should involve decreasing the moisture content of the indoor air.

Should You Have the Air Ducts in Your Home Cleaned?– excerpt on duct cleaning and mold follows, please review the entire document for additional information on duct cleaning and mold.

You should consider having the air ducts in your home cleaned if:

There is substantial visible mold growth inside hard surface (e.g., sheet metal) ducts or on other components of your heating and cooling system. There are several important points to understand concerning mold detection in heating and cooling systems:

  • Many sections of your heating and cooling system may not be accessible for a visible inspection, so ask the service provider to show you any mold they say exists.
  • You should be aware that although a substance may look like mold, a positive determination of whether it is mold or not can be made only by an expert and may require laboratory analysis for final confirmation. For about $50, some microbiology laboratories can tell you whether a sample sent to them on a clear strip of sticky household tape is mold or simply a substance that resembles it.
  • If you have insulated air ducts and the insulation gets wet or moldy it cannot be effectively cleaned and should be removed and replaced.
  • If the conditions causing the mold growth in the first place are not corrected, mold growth will recur.

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Indoor Air Regulations and Mold

Standards or Threshold Limit Values (TLVs) for airborne concentrations of mold, or mold spores, have not been set. Currently, there are no EPA regulations or standards for airborne mold contaminants.

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Large Buildings and Mold

EPA has a number of resources available, you can start with the Indoor Air Quality Building Evaluation and Assessment Model (I-BEAM). I-BEAM updates and expands EPA’s existing Building Air Quality guidance and is designed to be comprehensive state-of-the-art guidance for managing IAQ in commercial buildings. This guidance was designed to be used by building professionals and others interested in indoor air quality in commercial buildings. I-BEAM contains text, animation/visual, and interactive/calculation components that can be used to perform a number of diverse tasks. See www.epa.gov/iaq/largebldgs/i-beam/index.html

How to Identify the Cause of a Mold and Mildew Problem

Mold and mildew are commonly found on the exterior wall surfaces of corner rooms in heating climate locations. An exposed corner room is likely to be significantly colder than adjoining rooms, so that it has a higher relative humidity (RH) than other rooms at the same water vapor pressure. If mold and mildew growth are found in a corner room, then relative humidity next to the room surfaces is above 70%. However, is the RH above 70% at the surfaces because the room is too cold or because there is too much moisture present (high water vapor pressure)?

The amount of moisture in the room can be estimated by measuring both temperature and RH at the same location and at the same time. Suppose there are two cases. In the first case, assume that the RH is 30% and the temperature is 70º F in the middle of the room. The low RH at that temperature indicates that the water vapor pressure (or absolute humidity) is low. The high surface RH is probably due to room surfaces that are “too cold.” Temperature is the dominating factor, and control strategies should involve increasing the temperature at cold room surfaces.

In the second case, assume that the RH is 50% and the temperature is 70oF in the middle of the room. The higher RH at that temperature indicates that the water vapor pressure is high and there is a relatively large amount of moisture in the air. The high surface RH is probably due to air that is “too moist.” Humidity is the dominating factor, and control strategies should involve decreasing the moisture content of the indoor air.

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Schools and Mold and Indoor Air Quality

The Agency’s premier resource on this issue is the Indoor Air Quality Tools for Schools kit. Our schools-related resources on the web start at: epa.gov/iaq/schools.

The asthma companion piece for the IAQ Tools for Schools Action kit, is Managing Asthma in the School Environment – epa.gov/iaq/schools/managingasthma.html. This publication has a section entitled Clean Up Mold and Moisture Control: An excerpt follows:

Common Moisture Sources Found in Schools

Moisture problems in school buildings can be caused by a variety of conditions, including roof and plumbing leaks, condensation, and excess humidity. Some moisture problems in schools have been linked to changes in building construction practices during the past twenty to thirty years. These changes have resulted in more tightly sealed buildings that may not allow moisture to escape easily. Moisture problems in schools are also associated with delayed maintenance or insufficient maintenance, due to budget and other constraints. Temporary structures in schools, such as trailers and portable classrooms, have frequently been associated with moisture and mold problems.

Suggestions for Reducing Mold Growth in Schools

Reduce Indoor Humidity

  • Vent showers and other moisture-generating sources to the outside.
  • Control humidity levels and dampness by using air conditioners and de-humidifiers.
  • Provide adequate ventilation to maintain indoor humidity levels between 30-60%.
  • Use exhaust fans whenever cooking, dishwashing, and cleaning in food service areas.

Inspect the building for signs of mold, moisture, leaks, or spills

  • Check for moldy odors.
  • Look for water stains or discoloration on the ceiling, walls, floors, and window sills.
  • Look around and under sinks for standing water, water stains, or mold.
  • Inspect bathrooms for standing water, water stains, or mold.
  • Do not let water stand in air conditioning or refrigerator drip pans.

Respond promptly when you see signs of moisture and/or mold, or when leaks or spills occur

  • Clean and dry any damp or wet building materials and furnishings within 24-48 hours of occurrence to prevent mold growth.
  • Fix the source of the water problem or leak to prevent mold growth.
  • Clean mold off hard surfaces with water and detergent, and dry completely.
  • Absorbent materials such as ceiling tiles, that are moldy, may need to be replaced.
  • Check the mechanical room and roof for unsanitary conditions, leaks, or spills.

Prevent moisture condensation

  • Reduce the potential for condensation on cold surfaces (i.e., windows, piping, exterior walls, roof, or floors) by adding insulation.

Floor and carpet cleaning

  • Remove spots and stains immediately, using the flooring manufacturer’s recommended techniques.
  • Use care to prevent excess moisture or cleaning residue accumulation and ensure that cleaned areas are dried quickly.
  • In areas where there is a perpetual moisture problem, do not install carpeting (i.e., by drinking fountains, by classroom sinks, or on concrete floors with leaks or frequent condensation).

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EPA’s Asthma Brochure (PDF, 2 pp, 245KB)
The publication, “A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisure, and Your Home” (PDF, 20 pp, 278KB)
“Una Breve Guía para el Moho, la Humedad y su Hoga” (PDF, 20 pp, 796KB)
The publication, “Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings” (PDF, 54 pp, 5MB)

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Toilet Flange Repair

When your toilets get-a-rockin’ it might be time for Your 1 Plumber to come-a-knockin’ – but first, a few words on how to fix it yourself.

A rocking toilet can lead to a water leak and damage your home. And the most likely cause is either a cracked or broken flange.

Toilet flange kit

Think you have the “right stuff” to fix it yourself? Well, then let’s have a go at it!

Here’s what you need to get started:

  • Screwdriver
  • Cloth
  • Nuts and bolts
  • Spanner flange
  • Wax gasket

Step-by-Step Process

1. Remove Water

Turn off the water supply and empty the tank by flushing the toilet. Both the toilet tank and toilet bowl should be completely empty of water.

2. Remove Toilet Bowl

Remove toilet bowl

If the toilet tank and bowl are connected with an elbow, remove the elbow.  You can remove the toilet bowl by unscrewing the nuts and loosening the bolts that tie it to the floor. The toilet bowl can be removed after breaking the wax seal that secures it to the floor and toilet flange. You will see if the flange is broken and/or cracked.

3. Tighten Bolts

If you don’t see a crack, you probably just need to tighten the nuts and bolts, put the toilet bowl back and make sure no water is leaking and the bowl no longer rocks.

4. Full Flange Replacement

If the full flange needs to be replaced, remove the existing flange. Clean the area. Pour concrete and let it set. Set the flange on top of the concrete and screw it in with the bolts.

5. Wax Gasket

Wax gasket

Unless the wax gasket is very new, a new one will be necessary. Set the wax gasket down on top of the toilet flange and ensure that it conforms to the flange and toilet to create a tight seal.

6. Setting Up Toilet Again

The toilet should then be set back on the toilet flange and the bolts should be tightened. The water supply tube should be
connected to the shut-off valve. The flush should be checked to see that there are no leaks.

Need Some Help? You Can Count on Your 1 Plumber

If you’re the kind of person not likely to even attempt a job like this, then count on us to lend a help hand.  Plus, you can save $25 on any toilet repair project or on a new or replacement toilet with the coupon below.

install-new-toilet-coupon

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Preventing Lead in Drinking Water

Actions You Can Take To Reduce Lead In Drinking Water

Flush Your Pipes Before Drinking

Anytime the water in a particular faucet has not been used for six hours or longer, “flush” your cold-water pipes by running the water until it becomes as cold as it will get. (This could take as little as five to thirty seconds if there has been recent heavy water use such as showering or toilet flushing. Otherwise, it could take two minutes or longer.) The more time water has been sitting in your home’s pipes, the more lead it may contain.

Only Use Cold Water for Consumption

Use only water from the cold-water tap for drinking, cooking, and especially for making baby formula. Hot water is likely to contain higher levels of lead.The two actions recommended above are very important to the health of your family. They will probably be effective in reducing lead levels because most of the lead in household water usually comes from the plumbing in your house, not from the local water supply.

Have Your Water Tested

After you have taken the two precautions above for reducing the lead in water used for drinking or cooking, have your water tested. The only way to be sure of the amount of lead in your household water is to have it tested by a competent laboratory. Your water supplier may be able to offer information or assistance with testing. Testing is especially important for apartment dwellers, because flushing may not be effective in high-rise buildings with lead-soldered central piping.

For more details on the problem of lead in drinking water and what you can do about it, read the questions and answers in the remainder of this booklet. Your local or state department of health or environment might be able to provide additional information.

Health Threats From Lead

Too much lead in the human body can cause serious damage to the brain, kidneys, nervous system, and red blood cells.

You have the greatest risk, even with short term exposure, if you are a young child or you are pregnant.

Sources of Lead in Drinking Water

Lead levels in your drinking water are likely to be highest if:

  • Your home has faucets or fittings of brass which contains some lead
  • Your home or water system has lead pipes
  • Your home has copper pipes with solder
  • The house is less than five years old
  • You have naturally soft water
  • Water often sits in the pipes for several hours

Why is Lead a Problem?

Answer: Although it has been used in numerous consumer products, lead is a toxic metal now known to be harmful to human health if inhaled or ingested. Important sources of lead exposure include: ambient air, soil and dust (both inside and outside the home), food (which can be contaminated by lead in the air or in food containers), and water (from the corrosion of plumbing). On average, it is estimated that lead in drinking water contributes between 10 and 20 percent of total lead exposure in young children. Federal controls on lead in gasoline have significantly reduced people’s exposure to lead. The degree of harm depends upon the level of exposure (from all sources). Known effects of exposure to lead range from subtle biochemical changes at low levels of exposure, to severe neurological and toxic effects or even death at extremely high levels.

Does Lead Affect Everyone Equally?

Answer: Young children, infants and fetuses appear to be particularly vulnerable to lead poisoning. A dose of lead that would have little effect on an adult can have a big effect on a small body. Also, growing children will more rapidly adsorb any lead they consume. A child’s mental and physical development can be irreversibly stunted by over-exposure to lead. In infants, whose diet consists of liquids made with water – such as baby formula – lead in drinking water makes up an even greater proportion of total lead exposure (40 to 60 percent).

How Could Lead Get Into My Drinking Water?

Answer: Typically, lead gets into your water after the water leaves your local treatment plant or your well. That is, the source of lead in your home’s water is most likely pipe or solder in your home’s own plumbing. The most common cause is corrosion, a reaction between the water and the lead pipes or solder. Dissolved oxygen, low pH (acidity) and low mineral content in water are common causes of corrosion.

Does My Home’s Age Make a Difference?

Answer: Lead-contaminated drinking water is most often a problem in houses that are either very old or very new. Up through the early 1900’s, it was common practice, in some areas of the country, to use lead pipes for interior plumbing. Also, lead piping was often used for the service connections that join residences to public water supplies. (This practice ended only recently in some localities.) Plumbing installed before 1930 is most likely to contain lead. Copper pipes have replaced lead pipes in most residential plumbing. However, the use of lead solder with copper pipes is widespread. Experts regard this lead solder as the major cause of lead contamination of household water in U.S. homes today. New brass faucets and fittings can also leach lead, even though they are “lead-free.” Scientific data indicate that the newer the home, the greater the risk of lead contamination. Lead levels decrease as a building ages. This is because, as time passes, mineral deposits form a coating on the inside of the pipes (if the water is not corrosive). This coating insulates the water from the solder. But, during the first five years (before the coating forms) water is in direct contact with the lead. More likely than not, water in buildings less than five years old has high levels of lead contamination.

How Can I Tell if My Water Contains Too Much Lead?

Answer: You should have your water tested for lead. Testing costs between $20 and $100. Since you cannot see, taste, or smell lead dissolved in water, testing is the only sure way of telling whether or not there are harmful quantities of lead in your drinking water. You should be particularly suspicious if your home has lead pipes (lead is a dull gray metal that is soft enough to be easily scratched with a house key), if you see signs of corrosion (frequent leaks, rust-colored water, stained dishes or laundry, or if your non-plastic plumbing is less than five years old. Your water supplier may have useful information, including whether or not the service connector used in your home or area is made of lead. Testing is especially important in high-rise buildings where flushing might not work.

How Do I Have My Water Tested?

Answer: Water samples from the tap will have to be collected and sent to a qualified laboratory for analysis. Contact your local water utility or your local health department for information and assistance. In some instances, these authorities will test your tap water for you, or they can refer you to a qualified laboratory. You may find a qualified testing company under ‘Laboratories” in the yellow pages of your telephone directory. You should be sure that the lab you use has been approved by your state or by EPA as being able to analyze drinking water samples for lead contamination. To find out which labs are qualified, contact your state or local department of the environment or health.

What Are The Testing Procedures?

Answer: Arrangements for sample collection will vary. A few laboratories will send a trained technician to take the samples; but in most cases, the lab will provide sample containers along with instructions as to how you should draw your own tap-water samples. If you collect the samples yourself, make sure you follow the lab’s instructions exactly. Otherwise, the results might not be reliable. Make sure that the laboratory is following EPA’s water sampling and analysis procedures. Be certain to take a “first draw” and a “fully flushed” sample.

Two organizations can help you decide which type of filter is best for you. NSF International, an independent testing agency, evaluates and certifies the performance of filtering devices that remove lead from drinking water. Generally, their seal of approval appears on the device and product packaging. The Water Quality Association (WQA) is an independent, not-for-profit organization that represents firms and individuals who produce and sell equipment and services which improves the quality of drinking water. WQA’s water quality specialists can provide advice on treatment units for specific uses at home or business.

For additional information regarding the certification program, contact NSF at (877) 867-3435, or WQA at (630) 505-0161, ext. 270. You can purchase bottled water for home and office consumption. (Bottled water sold in interstate commerce is regulated by the Food and Drug Administration. Water that is bottled and sold within a state is under state regulation. EPA does not regulate bottled water.) When repairing or installing new plumbing in old homes, instruct, in writing, any plumber you hire to use only lead-free materials. When building a new home, be sure lead-free materials are used. Before you move into a newly built home, remove all strainers from faucets and flush the water for at least 15 minutes to remove loose solder or flux debris from the plumbing. Occasionally, check the strainers and remove any later accumulation of loose material.

What About Lead in Sources Other Than Drinking Water?

Answer: As mentioned above, drinking water is estimated to contribute only 10 to 20 percent of the total lead exposure in young children. Ask your local health department or call EPA for more information on other sources of exposure to lead. A few general precautions can help prevent contact with lead in and around your home:

  • Avoid removing paint in the home unless you are sure it contains no lead. Lead paint should only be removed by someone who knows how to protect you from lead paint dust. However, by washing floors, window sills, carpets, upholstery and any objects children put in their mouths, you can get rid of this source of lead.
  • Make sure children wash their hands after playing outside in the dirt or snow.
  • Never store food in open cans, Keep it in glass plastic or stainless steel containers. Use glazed pottery only for display if you don’t know whether it contains lead.
  • If you work around lead, don’t bring it home. Shower and change clothes at work and wash your work clothes separately.

Aren’t There a Lot of Types of Treatment Devices That Would Work?

Answer: There are many devices which are certified for effective lead reduction, but devices that are not designed to remove lead will not work. It is suggested that you follow the recommendations below before purchasing any device:

  • Avoid being misled by false claims and scare tactics. Be wary of “free” water testing that is provided by the salesperson to determine your water quality; many tests are inaccurate or misleading. Research the reputation and legitimacy of the company or sales representative.
  • Avoid signing contracts or binding agreements for “onetime offers” or for those that place a lien on your home. Be very careful about giving credit card information over the phone. Check into any offers that involve prizes or sweepstakes winnings.
  • As suggested above, verify the claims of manufacturers by contacting the NSF International or the Water Quality Association.

What is The Government Doing About the Problem of Lead in Household Water?

Answer: There are two major governmental actions to reduce your exposure to lead:

  1. Under the authority of the Safe Drinking Water Act, EPA set the action level for lead in drinking water at 15 ppb. This means utilities must ensure that water from the customer’s tap does not exceed this level in at least 90 percent of the homes sampled. If water from the tap does exceed this limit, then the utility must take certain steps to correct the problem. Utilities must also notify citizens of all violations of the standard.
  2. In June 1986, President Reagan signed amendments to the Safe Drinking Water Act. These amendments require the use of “lead-free” pipe, solder, and flux in the installation or repair of any public water system, or any plumbing in a residential or non-residential facility connected to a public water system. Under the provisions of these amendments, solders and flux will be considered “lead-free” when they contain not more than 0.2 percent lead. (In the past, solder normally contained about 50 percent lead.) Pipes and fittings will be considered “lead-free” when they contain not more than 8.0 percent lead. These requirements went into effect in June 1986. The law gave state governments until June 1988 to implement and enforce these new limitations. Although the states have banned all use of lead materials in drinking water systems, such bans do not eliminate lead contamination within existing plumbing. Also, in enforcing the ban, some states have continued to find illegally used lead solder in new plumbing installations. While responsible plumbers always observe the ban, this suggests that some plumbing installations or repairs using lead solder may be escaping detection by the limited number of enforcement personnel. (flushed sample will indicate the effectiveness of flushing the tap before using the water.)

How Much Lead is Too Much?

Answer: Federal standards initially limited the amount of lead in water to 50 parts per billion (ppb). In light of new health and exposure data, EPA has set an action level of 15 ppb. If tests show that the level of lead in your household water is in the area of 15 ppb or higher, it is advisable – especially if there are young children in the home – to reduce the lead level in your tap water as much as possible. (EPA estimates that more than 40 million U.S. residents use water that can contain lead in excess of 15 ppb.) Note: One ppb is equal to 1.0 microgram per liter (µg/1) or 0.001 milligram per liter (mg/1).

How Can I Reduce My Exposure?

Answer:If your drinking water is contaminated with lead – or until you find out for sure – there are several things you can do to minimize your exposure. Two of these actions should be taken right away by everyone who has, or suspects, a problem. The advisability of other actions listed here will depend upon your particular circumstances.

  • The first step is to refrain from consuming water that has been in contact with your home’s plumbing for more than six hours, such as overnight or during your work day. Before using water for drinking or cooking, “flush” the cold water faucet by allowing the water to run until you can feel that the water has become as cold as it will get. You must do this for each drinking water faucet-taking a shower will not flush your kitchen tap. Buildings built prior to about 1930 may have service connectors made of lead. Letting the water run for an extra 15 seconds after it cools should also flush this service connector. Flushing is important because the longer water is exposed to lead pipes or lead solder, the greater the possible lead contamination. (The water that comes out after flushing will not have been in extended contact with lead pipes or solder.) Once you have flushed a tap, you might fill one or more bottles with water and put them in the refrigerator for later use that day. (The water that was flushed – usually one to two gallons – can be used for non-consumption purposes such as washing dishes or clothes; it needn’t be wasted.)Note: Flushing may prove ineffective in high-rise buildings that have large-diameter supply pipes joined with lead solder.
  • The second step is to never cook with or consume water from the hot-water tap. Hot water dissolves more lead more quickly than cold water. So, do not use water taken from the hot tap for cooking or drinking, and especially not for making baby formula. (If you need hot water, draw water from the cold tap and heat it on the stove.) Use only thoroughly flushed water from the cold tap for any consumption.

Other Actions

  • If you are served by a public water system contact your supplier and ask whether or not the supply system contains lead piping, and whether your water is corrosive. If either answer is yes, ask what steps the supplier is taking to deal with the problem of lead contamination. Drinking water can be treated at the plant to make it less corrosive. Cities such as Boston and Seattle have successfully done this for an annual cost of less than one dollar per person. (Treatment to reduce corrosion will also save you and the water supplier money by reducing damage to plumbing.) Water mains containing lead pipes can be replaced, as well as those portions of lead service connections that are under the jurisdiction of the supplier.
  • If you own a well or another water source, you can treat the water to make it less corrosive. Corrosion control devices for individual households include calcite filters and other devices. Calcite filters should be installed in the line between the water source and any lead service connections or lead-soldered pipe. You might ask your health or water department for assistance in finding these commercially, available products.
  • A number of cartridge type filtering devices are available. These devices use various types of filtering media, including carbon, ion exchange resins, activated alumina and other privately marketed products. Unless they have been certified as described below, the effectiveness of these devices to reduce lead exposure at the tap can vary greatly. It is highly recommended that before purchasing a filter, you verify the claim made by the vendor. If you have bought a filter, you should replace the filter periodically as specified by the manufacturer. Failure to do so may result in exposure to high lead levels.

Definitions

Corrosion: A dissolving and wearing away of metal caused by a chemical reaction (in this case, between water and metal pipes, or between two different metals).

First Draw: The water that immediately comes out when a tap is first opened.

Flush: To open a cold-water tap to clear out all the water which may have been sitting for a long time in the pipes. In new homes, to flush a system means to send large volumes of water gushing through the unused pipes to remove loose particles of solder and flux. (Sometimes this is not done correctly or at all).

Flux: A substance applied during soldering to facilitate the flow of solder. Flux often contains lead and can, itself, be a source of contamination.

Naturally soft water: Any water with low mineral content, lacking the hardness minerals calcium and magnesium.

Public Water System: Any system that supplies water to 25 or more people or has 15 or more service connections (buildings or customers).

Service Connector: The pipe that carries tap water from the public water main to a building. In the past these were often made of lead.

Soft water: Any water that is not “hard.” Water is considered to be hard when it contains a large amount of dissolved minerals, such as salts containing calcium or magnesium. You may be familiar with hard water that interferes with the lathering action of soap.

Solder: A metallic compound used to seal joints in plumbing. Until recently, most solder contained about 50 percent lead.

Source: U.S. Environmental Protection Agency

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Unclogging Your Garbage Disposal

A clogged garbage disposal is generally caused by the lack of water while grinding the waste material and inability of the flywheel to grind the food waste.

This may also happen because the disposal has outlived its lifespan.

Things you’ll need for this job:

  • Water
  • Baking soda
  • Vinegar
  • Flashlight
  • Knife
  • Toilet plunger
  • Wrench
  • Screwdriver

Step 1: Power Off

Turn off the circuit breaker from the main electric panel and power off the garbage disposal system.

Step 2: Water and Vinegar

Try running water down the garbage disposal system. Also, pour in a mix of baking soda and vinegar. This may help loosen the waste material and clear the clog.

Step 3: Check Drain

Shine a flashlight through the sink into the garbage disposal hole. Check to see that there is no debris that is blocked there. One can use an implement like tongs or a sharp knife to try and free whatever is jammed inside.

Step 4: Use Plunger

Usa a plunger

If the drain system has backed up, place a clean toilet plunger over the drain. Pump the water in and out until the water begins to drain out. This may help clear the source of the clog.

Step 5: Check Hex-head Hole

Open the cupboard under the sink that houses the garbage disposal unit. At the bottom of the garbage disposal cylinder, there is a hex-head hole to which a hex-head wrench can be fitted. Turn the wrench clock-wise and counter-clockwise a number of times until it can go around in either direction. Any unseen obstruction will be removed by following this step. In case a hex-head wrench is not available, one can use a wooden implement to insert into the opening.

Step 6: Clean Blades

Rotate the blades in the garbage disposal by using the tip of a screwdriver. If the blades do not move easily, this may be the cause of the trouble. Rotate the blades till you are able to free the obstruction from the blades. If the rotation does not help, one can try tapping a sledgehammer against the screwdriver to try and dislodge the obstruction. A mirror and flashlight can be used during this process. The clogging generally happens when items like potato skins, banana skins and egg shells get caught under the blades.

Step 7: Clean the P-Trap

Clean the P-Trap

Sometimes coffee grounds cause clogs to occur. These occur in the P-trap and trap arm of the drain. Unscrew the nut at the bottom of the tee along with the slip nut that lies between the P-trap and the trap arm. Clean the trap and reinstall it. Test it with warm water to see that it is in working condition. Keep a pan underneath to trap the dirty water that will flow out. Remove the trap arm and clean it. The debris can be removed from the pipe stub by running a screwdriver inside it.

Step 8: Test and Check

Turn on the reset button at the bottom of the garbage disposal cylinder. Turn on the electricity from the main electricity panel. Also, turn on the power switch of the garbage disposal system. Check that the garbage disposal system is in working condition.

Need a Little Friendly Advice or Assistance?

If you have trouble with any part of this process, give us a call and if we’re not immediately available to assist you, one of our technicians will return your call at the very first opportunity.

Or, if the project proves to be more than you care to tackle yourself, here’s a $25 savings you can apply to our professional plumbing repair services!

Garbage Disposal Repair Coupon

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Dryer Vent Safety

Did you know overheated clothes dryers can cause fires?

Fires can occur when lint builds up in the dryer or in the exhaust duct. Lint can block the flow of air, cause excessive heat build-up, and result in a fire in some dryers.

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission estimates that in 1998, clothes dryers were associated with 15,600 fires, which resulted in 20 deaths and 370 injuries.

Prevent Dryer Fires

  • Clean the lint screen/filter before or after drying each load of clothes.
    If clothing is still damp at the end of a typical drying cycle or drying requires longer times than normal, this may be a sign that the lint screen or the exhaust duct is blocked.
  • Clean the dryer vent and exhaust duct periodically.
    Check the outside dryer vent while the dryer is operating to make sure exhaust air is escaping. If it is not, the vent or the exhaust duct may be blocked. To remove a blockage in the exhaust path, it may be necessary to disconnect the exhaust duct from the dryer. Remember to reconnect the ducting to the dryer and outside vent before using the dryer again.
  • Check the exhaust duct more often if you have a plastic, flexible duct.
    This type of duct is more apt to trap lint than ducting without ridges.
  • Clean behind the dryer, where lint can build up.
    Have a qualified service person clean the interior of the dryer chassis periodically to minimize the amount of lint accumulation. Keep the area around the dryer clean and free of clutter.
  • Replace plastic or foil, accordion-type ducting material with rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct.
    Most manufacturers specify the use of a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct, which provides maximum airflow. The flexible plastic or foil type duct can more easily trap lint and is more susceptible to kinks or crushing, which can greatly reduce the airflow. Closely follow manufacturers’ instructions for new installations. Most manufacturers that get their clothes dryers approved by Underwriters Laboratories specify the use of metal exhaust duct. If metal duct is not available at the retailer where the dryer was purchased, check other locations, such as hardware or builder supply stores. If you are having the dryer installed, insist upon metal duct unless the installer has verified that the manufacturer permits the use of plastic duct.
  • Take special care when drying clothes that have been soiled with volatile chemicals such as gasoline, cooking oils, cleaning agents, or finishing oils and stains.
    If possible, wash the clothing more than once to minimize the amount of volatile chemicals on the clothes and, preferably, hang the clothes to dry. If using a dryer, use the lowest heat setting and a drying cycle that has a cool-down period at the end of the cycle. To prevent clothes from igniting after drying, do not leave the dried clothes in the dryer or piled in a laundry basket.

Dryer Vent Safety

U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission – CPSC Document #5502, Updated June 2003

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Zoeller Sump Pumps

Sump pumps are employed to help prevent basement flooding.

The protection they offer is especially important in finished basements containing recreation rooms, offices and bedrooms. As the water table rises and falls through the seasons, the pump collects excess water and moves it away from your home’s foundation. A variety of pumps and sizes are available including water powered and battery powered back up models for use in areas prone to power outages. We’ll be happy to evaluate your needs and help you select the correct sump pump for your home.

Your 1 Plumber sells and installs Zoeller pumps, “Pumps the Pros Use.” ™
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Setting the Temperature on Your Water Heater

The majority of injuries and deaths involving tap water scalds are to the elderly and children under the age of five.

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) urges all users to lower their water heaters to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. In addition to preventing accidents, this decrease in temperature will conserve energy and save money.

Safety Alert: Tap Water Scalds!

Most adults will suffer third-degree burns if exposed to 150 degree water for two seconds. Burns will also occur with a six-second exposure to 140 degree water or with a thirty second exposure to 130 degree water. Even if the temperature is 120 degrees, a five minute exposure could result in third-degree burns. Various procedures for lowering water temperature in the home exist, depending on the method of heating. Here are some suggestions:

Electric water heaters. Call your local electric company to adjust the thermostat. Some companies offer this service at no-charge. Hot water should not be used for at least two hours prior to setting. To make the adjustment yourself, start by shutting off current to the water heater, then turn off the circuit breaker to the heater or remove the fuse that serves the heater. Most electric water heaters have two thermostats, both of which must be set to a common temperature for proper operation. To reach these thermostats you must remove the upper and lower access panels. Adjust the thermostat following the instructions provided with the appliance. Hold a candy or meat thermometer under the faucet to check water temperature.

Gas water heaters. Because thermostats differ, call your local gas company for instructions. Where precise temperatures are not given, hold a candy or meat thermometer under faucet for most accurate reading first thing in the morning or at least two hours after water use. If reading is too high, adjust thermostat on heater, according to manufacturer’s instructions, and check again with thermometer.

Furnace heater. If you do not have an electric, gas, or oil-fired water heater, you probably have an on-line hot water system. Contact your fuel supplier to have the temperature lowered. If you live in an apartment, contact the building manager to discuss possible options for lowering your tap water temperature. Reducing water temperature will not affect the heating capacity of the furnace.

CPSC notes that a thermostat setting of 120 degrees Fahrenheit (49 degrees Celsius) may be necessary for residential water heaters to reduce or eliminate the risk of most tap water scald injuries. Consumers should consider lowering the thermostat to the lowest settings that will satisfy hot water needs for all clothing and dish washing machines.

Never take hot water temperature for granted. Always hand-test before using, especially when bathing infants and young children. Leaving a child unsupervised in the bathroom, even if only for a second, could cause serious injuries. Your presence at all times is the best defense against accidents and scalding to infants and young children.

U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission – Document #5098

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Kerosene Heater Safety

If you are using a kerosene heater, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission and the National Kerosene Heater Association advise you to follow these suggestions in order to minimize the risk of fire and potential health effects from indoor air pollution.

  • Use only water-clear 1 K grade kerosene. Never use gasoline. Gasoline is not the same as kerosene. Even small amounts of gasoline or other volatile fuels or solvents mixed with kerosene can substantially increase the risk of a fire or an explosion.
  • Always store kerosene in a separate container intended for kerosene, not in a gasoline can or a can that has contained gasoline. This helps you avoid using contaminated fuel or the wrong fuel by mistake. Kerosene containers are usually blue; gasoline containers are usually red.
  • When purchasing kerosene at the pump, make sure to use the kerosene pump, not the gasoline pump. Some service stations have separate islands for kerosene. Some oil companies have also established quality control programs to minimize the chances of gasoline contamination of kerosene.
  • 1-K grade kerosene should be purchased from a dealer who can certify that what is being sold is 1-K. State operated and private sector certification programs that ensure the quality of kerosene are established in some states. Grades other than 1-K can lead to a release of more pollutants in your home, posing a possible health risk. Different grades of kerosene can look the same so it is important that the dealer certify that the product sold is 1-K grade kerosene.
  • Never refuel the heater inside the home. Fill the tank outdoors, away from combustible materials, and only after the heater has been turned off and allowed to cool down. Do not refuel the heater when it is hot or is in operation. Do not fill the fuel tank above the “full” mark. The space above the “full” mark is to allow the fuel room to expand without causing leakage when the heater is operating.
  • In case of flare-up or if uncontrolled flaming occurs, do not attempt to move or carry the heater. This can make the fire worse. If the heater is equipped with a manual shut-off switch, activate the switch to turn off the heater. If this does not extinguish the fire, leave the house immediately and call the fire department. As an added reminder and precaution, install at least one smoke detector near each sleeping area or on each level of the house.
  • Reduce your exposure to indoor air pollutants by properly operating and maintaining your portable kerosene heater. Although portable kerosene heaters are very efficient in the burning of fuel to produce heat, low levels of certain pollutants such as carbon monoxide and nitrogen dioxide are produced. Exposure to low levels of these pollutants may be harmful, especially to inpiduals with chronic respiratory or circulatory health problems. To assure that you and family members are not exposed to significant levels of these pollutants, you should follow carefully the following rules of safe operation:

Operate your heater in a room with a door open to the rest of the house.

If you must operate your heater in a room with the door closed to the rest of the house, open an outside window approximately an inch to permit fresh air to effectively dilute the pollutants below a level of concern.

Always operate your heater according to the manufacturer’s instructions, making sure that the wick is set at the proper level as instructed by your manufacturer.

Keep the wick in your heater clean and in good operating condition by following the cleaning and maintenance procedures recommended by the manufacturer.

Keep an outside window opened approximately an inch to insure adequate fresh air infiltration. This is true regardless of whether you use a kerosene heater or some other conventional method of heating, if your home is relatively new and tight, or if it is older but has been winterized to reduce air infiltration from the outside.

CAUTION: Improper fuel may cause pollution and sooting of the burner. Use only water clear No. 1-K Kerosene.

DANGER: Risk of explosion. Never use gasoline in this heater.

CAUTION: Risk of indoor air pollution. Use this heater only in a well ventilated area. See operating instructions for details.

U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC)

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How is Water Treated?

water-treatment

Prechlorination

Chlorine is added to the raw as it enters each plant. Chlorine kills microorganisms such as bacteria, protozoa, and viruses that may cause illness in humans. Chlorine also prevents the growth of algae at the treatment plant that may interfere with treatment of water and cause taste and odor problems. Enough chlorine is added to maintain a residual of 1 part per million or residual chlorine in water after filtration. A chlorine residual is needed to prevent re-growth of bacteria in the piping network otherwise known as the distribution system.

Coagulation/Flocculation

Alum (aluminum sulfate) is added to the water to destabilize natural fine particulate matter suspended in water. This process in known as coagulation. These particles enter water through land erosion, airborne contaminants, decay of natural organic matter such as plants and animal wastes, and discharges resulting from human activities. The impurities found in water suspensions consist of charged colloids (colloid – a very small solid suspended in water which varies in size, density and electric charge) ranging in size from 5 nm to 1 um and particulates greater than 0.5 mm. Most of these particles will not settle by gravity due to their charge and because they are lighter than water (their density is less than water). The addition of alum causes these particles and colloids to clump together to form heavier particles which will settle in water.

Alum is added quickly to the water at the plants using mechanical mixers. This process is known as Rapid Mix. After passing through the Rapid Mix process, the water travels through flocculation basins where it is gently stirred by slow moving paddles. Gentle mixing brings small particles into contact so that they will collide, stick together, and grow to a size that will readily settle. These large particles are referred to as floc. Formation of proper floc is necessary for particles to be removed during sedimentation and filtration.

Sedimentation

After flocculation, the water and floc moves slowly through large basins known as sedimentation or settling basins.

sedimentation

The water moves very slowly through these basins due to their large size. This allows the floc to settle to the bottom of the basin. The floc that falls to the bottom of the basins is collected into a hopper by large rotating scrapers where it is removed several times daily by the plant operators. Clear water above the floc layer (referred to as treatment residuals) flows out of the sedimentation basin and to the filters. Removal of particles in the sedimentation basin improves the operation of the filters that comprises the next treatment process after sedimentation.

The sedimentation process removes many particles including clay and silt based turbidity, natural organic matter, and other associated impurities. These impurities include microbial contaminants, toxic metals, synthetic organic chemicals, iron, manganese and humic substances. Humic substances come from soil are produced within natural water and sediments by chemical and biological processes such as the decay of vegetation. Removal of humic substances from drinking water is desirable since they form disinfection byproducts when chlorine is added to the water. At high concentrations, disinfection by-products such as trihalomethanes are a public health concern.

Filtration

The last step in purifying the water is accomplished by passing water through a bed of sand and gravel.

filtration

As water filters through the sand, the remaining particles of suspended matter are trapped in the sand bed. In the filtration process, water flows on top of the sand bed and travels through the bed until it is collected at the bottom in underdrains. Filtered water flows from the underdrains into clearwells or filtered water reservoirs. The rate of filtration is regulated using controllers. The filters must be cleaned periodically as material becomes trapped in the filter and reduces the rate of filtration. Cleaning of the filters is also needed to prevent solids from passing through the filters into the filtered water. To keep the filters operating at their best performance, the filter operators take each filter out of service so they can be backwashed. Backwashing cleans the filters by forcing clean water backward through the sand to remove the solids which are deposited in waste drains. Filters are backwashed on a rotating schedule to ensure that plants can continuously operate.

Fluoridation

Fluoride is added to the filtered water at each of the plants to reduce tooth decay. The plants maintain fluoride levels of approximately one part per million in the treated water.

flouridation

Post-Chlorination

If needed, additional chlorine is added to the finished water that leaves the water plants. Low levels of chlorine (approximately 0.2 to 1.0 part per million) must be maintained in the distribution systems pipes and home plumbing to prevent the growth of microorganisms.

Corrosion Control

Lime is added to the treated water at the water plants before the water is added to the distribution system. Lime (or calcium oxide) is added to raise the pH of the water to a level of about 8 standard units. The process reduces the ability of the water to corrode water mains and home plumbing materials such as copper, lead, and brass. Corrosive water can dissolve lead and copper. Excessive levels of dissolved lead and copper are public health concern particularly for young children.

Source: http://publicworks.baltimorecity.gov

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Identifying and Fixing Common Toilet Leaks

Are you a do-it-yourselfer? Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to identify and fix common toilet leaks.

Toilet leaks can waste as much as four to five gallons of water per minute and cost you up to $100.00 per month in increased water and wastewater bills. Toilet leaks occur in two ways and are often very difficult to detect.

Flush Valve (Flapper) Ball Leak

The most common toilet leak and often hardest to detect is caused by a deteriorated or defected flush valve (flapper) ball at the bottom of the toilet tank. If the flapper or ball valve does not seat properly and form a water tight seal, water will leak around it into the toilet bowl. Often, this leak will occur without being heard. To test for this type of leak, add a few drops of food color or place a colored dye tablet (available from many hardware stores or possibly your water utility) in the toilet after it has stopped filling.

An Easy Way to Check for Flush Valve Leaks:

In just minutes, you can find out if a toilet is wasting thousands of gallons due to an undiscovered water leak. Here’s how:

  1. Remove the tank lid, then flush
  2. After the flapper/tank ball drops and the tank refills, add several drops of dark food coloring) or a fluidmaster leak detector tablet).
  3. Wait at least 20 minutes.
  4. If any trace of color appears in the toilet bowl, there is a leak.

Solutions to Fix Flush Valve Leaks

Replacing Float Cup Fill Valve

Replacing a Float Cup Fill Valve

  1. Adjust height by twisting shank in/out of valve body.
  2. Position valve in tank.
  3. Turn on water.
  4. Adjust water level.

Replacing a Float Ball (Ballcock) Fill Valve

Replacing a Float Ball (Ballcock) Fill Valve

  1. Check height and adjust if necessary
  2. Place valve in tank inlet hole, making sure rod arm position allows proper movement of float ball
  3. Screw rod arm into valve arm
  4. Screw float ball onto rod arm
  5. Turn on water supply

Replacing a Tank Ball

Replacing a Tank Ball

  1. Slide lower life wire through upper lift wire, then through guide arm on overflow pipe
  2. Thread tank ball onto lower lift wire
  3. Align tank ball over drain seat, keeping wire vertical
  4. Check operation to be sure ball seats properly

Replacing Flush Valve

Replacing a Flush Valve

  1. Cut new overflow pipe to match height of old pipe
  2. Install valve by tightening lock nut ½ turn beyond hand tight
  3. Slide gasket onto threaded end of valve
  4. Connect flapper chain to flush lever
  5. Attach refill tube to overflow pipe
  6. Reconnect tank to bowl

Float Ball (Ballcock) Valve Leak

The second most-common type of leak is caused by an improperly adjusted or broken fill (ball cock) valve.

Water Level Adjustment Clip

If the float is set too high or if the shut-off valve fails to close completely, water will continue to enter the tank and flow into the overflow tube. This type of leak can be seen simply by taking the tank top off and observing if water is flowing into the overflow tube once the tank is full.

The solution to this type of toilet problem is to reset the tank water to a lower level by using the fill valve’s water level adjustment clip. If it is a Float Cup-type valve, squeeze the two sides of the metal clip together, then slide clip down the rod. In the case of a Float Ball-type valve, lower water level by bending float arm slightly downward.

Need a Little Friendly Advice or Assistance?

If you have trouble with any part of this process, give us a call and if we’re not immediately available to assist you, one of our technicians will return your call at the very first opportunity.

Or, if the project proves to be more than you care to tackle yourself, here’s a $25 savings you can apply to our professional installation services!

Toilet Repair Coupon

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Selecting & Maintaining a Sump Pump

Here are some tips for selecting and maintaining a sump pump, but for fast, professional service give us call!

If you have a house with a basement or crawl space, you likely have a sump pump. From time to time, these pumps need to be replaced. Knowing what type of pump works best for your situation will keep failures, flooded basements and other hazards to a minimum.

There are two main types of sump pumps: pedestal and submersible. A pedestal type pump has the motor attached to the top of a shaft. The motor is not designed to be under water. A pedestal pump works well in small diameter basins.

Submersible pumps are designed to sit in the base of the sump basin, below water level. These are more adapted to larger sump basins and are typically quieter than pedestal pumps.

Sump pumps usually come with an automatic on/off switch. A float switch is the most common. As the float rises with rising water levels in the basin, the pump is started after the water rises to a certain level.

To determine the size of pump needed you must know how much water will need to be pumped, how high the water will be pumped, and the length and size of pipe. Do not assume that having a large horsepower pump will be the best choice. A large horsepower pump in a small diameter basin will cause the pump to cycle frequently, shortening pump life. At the same time, you need a pump that will keep up with maximum drainage. Pump capacity charts are available through professional installers or pump manufacturers, or they can be found on the web.

When installing a sump pump, it is usually recommended that a check valve be installed. This prevents water left in the outlet pipe from flowing back into the basin. Some valves can be attached to the sump pump itself, while others are placed farther up the outlet pipe. If the valve is not attached to the pump, it is recommended that a 1/8-inch air relief hole be drilled into the outlet pipe, between the valve and the pump. This prevents a condition called an air lock, where the pump will attempt to work but cannot pump water. Be sure the air relief hole is placed so that any water that comes out of the hole will remain in the drainage basin!

A dedicated electrical circuit should be used for the pump. Most pumps have a high amp load when starting. Do not use an extension cord to plug the pump into the outlet.

To maintain a sump pump, periodically check the system. Make sure the float is free of obstructions. Observe the outlet to make sure water is actually being pumped. Listen for unusual noises when the pump is running. If the pump runs just a few months of the year, fill the basin with water and make sure the system is operating before its normal operation time begins.

If a sump pump fails, and water gets into the basement, do not attempt repairs without first turning off the power to all basement outlets. To minimize long term indoor air quality concerns, dry the areas affected as soon as possible. If flooding is severe or long lasting, dry wall, carpeting and other materials may need to be replaced.

If a quality pump is used that is properly sized, it should last three or more years, with 10 years being reasonable, according to the U.S. Department of Housing and Development. When purchasing a pump, look for one that is built and tested according to Sump and Sewage Pump Manufacturers Association (SSPMA) specifications.

Source: University of Illinois

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Space Heater Safety

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) estimates that in 1994, electric space heaters were associated with 2,400 fires resulting 80 deaths, 240 injuries and $48.2 million in property loss.

The Problem

Even though electric space heaters don’t have an open flame, the heating elements of some types of electric heaters are hot enough to ignite nearby combustibles like draperies, paper, clothing, furniture, and flammable liquids. It is, therefore, important to check surrounding objects periodically to see if they feel hot. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions to see how far the heater should be placed from combustible materials, and for how far the heater should be placed from the floor so that carpeting or flooring materials don’t ignite.

Additionally, to prevent electrocutions, always keep portable electric heaters away from water, never use them in a bathroom or near a sink. (If you must use an appliance near water, always use a ground fault circuit interrupter).

CPSC Recommends the following when selecting an electric heater:

  • Look for one that is listed with a nationally-recognized testing laboratory. These heaters have been tested to meet specific safety standards, and manufacturers are required to provide important use and care information to the consumer. On heaters that are not listed, consumers have less assurance that the safety features and operating instructions are adequate.
  • Purchase a heater with a guard around the heating element. A wire grill or other protection is essential to keep fingers or fabrics from touching the hot element. Portable electric heaters that heat by circulating oil or water, however, usually have lower surface temperatures and may not need guards.
  • Before using the heater, read and follow the instructions for its operation and maintenance.
  • If you must use an extension cord, make sure it is a heavy duty cord marked with a # 14 gauge or larger wire An incorrectly-sized cord may create a fire hazard. If the heater’s plug has a grounding prong, use only a grounding (three-wire) extension cord.
  • Never run the heater’s cord (or any cord) under rugs or carpeting.
  • Do not leave the heater operating unattended or operating while sleeping. Portable electric air heaters are designed for use only as temporary supplemental heating and only while attended.
  • To prevent electrical shocks and electrocutions, always keep portable electric heaters away from water and never touch an electric heater if you are wet.

Safety Tips

  • Do not use an electric heater as a dryer by placing clothing over it and never use it heater to thaw pipes.
  • Keep the heater in safe working condition Replace missing guards and controls at once. Never operate a defective heater.
  • Don’t place the heater where children might play near it or where people might trip over or bump into it.
  • Place the heater on a level surface for stability.

Regardless of the type of heating system you have, install and maintain at least one smoke detector that is in good working condition on each floor of your home.

U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC)

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Unclogging a Sink Drain

Here are easy-to-follow instructions on how to unstop your kitchen or bathroom sink drains.

Read these instructions carefully before tackling this job on your own, and see below to learn how Your 1 Plumber can help.

Unclogging Moderately Clogged Drains

  • If you have a moderately clogged drain, try this homemade drain cleaner: Pour 1/2 cup of baking soda down the drain followed by 1/2 cup of vinegar. Be careful. The two ingredients interact with foaming and fumes, so replace the drain cover loosely. Let the concoction set for about three hours before running water.
  • If you know the slow drain is from grease, try this treatment: Pour in 1/2 cup of salt and 1/2 cup of baking soda followed by a teakettle of boiling water. Allow to sit overnight.

Alternative Approach for Moderately Clogged Drains

  • If the drain is sluggish but not completely clogged, turn on the hot water tap for 5 to 10 minutes. This sometimes opens the drain.
  • If running hot water does not open the sluggish drain, try an environmentally safe chemical drain opener like Bio-Clean.  It’s a powder that mixes with water, and can only be obtained from quality plumbing companies like Your 1 Plumber.  Before using Bio-Clean, read the label and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
  • After using any chemical cleaner, flush it from the drain pipes by allowing hot water to run for at least 10 minutes.

Unclogging Completely Clogged Drains

  • In some cases, using a simple suction cup will open a clogged sink drain.
  • Remove the basket strainer from the drain.
  • Run hot water until it stands about 2″ deep in the sink.
  • Take a suction cup plunger and pump it up and down directly over the clogged drain. The water in the sink provides a seal. If the suction cup does not clear the drain in a few minutes, you will probably be forced to remove some of the pipes to get the job done
  • If you cannot open the drain with the suction cup, set a pail underneath the sink trap and remove  the cleanout plug and washer. If the drain is only slightly clogged, a few quick probes with a screwdriver may solve the problem.
  • If the screwdriver doesn’t open it, use a snake or drain auger through the pipe. A drain auger works best if you rotate it, feed it in a short distance, and then rotate it again. This enables the drain auger to be inserted deeply into the pipe.
  • After the drain pipe is opened, replace the cleanout plug and washer. Run scalding water through the pipe to carry away any accumulations.

Need a Little Friendly Assistance?

If you have trouble with any part of this process, give us a call and if we’re not immediately available to assist you, one of our technicians will return your call at the very first opportunity.

Or, if the project proves to be more than you care to tackle yourself, here’s a $35 savings you can apply to our professional drain cleaning services!

Professional Drain Cleaning Coupon

 

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