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Hot Water Costs & Cost-Cutters

January 12, 2015

Some ways to save on water-heating bills require greater financial investments than others.

You may wish to consider the no- or low-cost options before making large purchases. Also allow for circumstances that may be unique to your household when deciding on the appropriate options (e.g., a small-capacity washing machine could meet the needs of a one person household efficiently). Although it is not feasible to eliminate water heating in your home, it is possible to substantially reduce water-heating costs without sacrificing comfort and convenience.

Figuring Out How Much You Spend to Heat Your Water

The next time you pay your utility bill, try one simple calculation. Divide the total amount by seven. The result is the amount you spend to heat your water. (If you receive separate utility bills for gas and electricity, use the gas bill for this calculation if you have a gas water heater; use the electric bill if you have an electric water heater.)

Of course, you may think this cost is a small price to pay for the convenience of a hot shower. But during the course of a year, this cost adds up. And when you consider that 95 million households in this country pay the same percentage, it is easy to see how much money—and energy—is used to heat water.

Several measures can help you decrease water-heating costs in your home. Some specific actions include reducing the amount of hot water used, making your water-heating system more energy efficient, and using off-peak power to heat water.

Reducing the Amount of Hot Water Used

Generally, four destination points in the home are recognized as end uses for hot water: faucets, showers, dishwashers, and washing machines. Now, you do not have to take cold showers, dine on dirty dishes, or wear dirty clothes to reduce your hot water consumption. Less radical measures are available that will be virtually unnoticeable once you apply them.

Faucets and Showers

Simply repairing leaks in faucets and showers can save hot water. A leak of one drip per second can cost $1 per month, yet could be repaired in a few minutes for less than that. And some apparently insignificant steps, when practiced routinely at your household, could have significant results. For example, turning the hot-water faucet off while shaving or brushing your teeth, as opposed to letting the water run, can also reduce water-heating costs. Another option is limiting the amount of time you spend in the shower. Other actions may require a small investment of time and money. Installing low-flow shower heads and faucet aerators can save significant amounts of hot water. Low-flow shower heads can reduce hot water consumption for bathing by 30%, yet still provide a strong, invigorating spray.

Faucet aerators, when applied in commercial and multifamily buildings where water is constantly circulated, can also reduce water-heating energy consumption. Older shower heads deliver 4 to 5 gallons (15.1 to 18.9 liters) of water per minute. Although a low-flow shower head delivers slightly less water than a standard shower head, the spray can still be invigorating.

[FS 204 January 1995] sets maximum water flow rates at 2.5 gallons (9.5 liters) per minute at a standard residential water pressure of 80 pounds per square inch (552 kilopascals).

A quick test can help you determine if your shower is a good candidate for a shower head replacement: Turn on the shower to the normal pressure you use, hold a bucket that has been marked in gallon increments under the spray, and time how many seconds it takes to fill the bucket to the 1-gallon (3.8-liter) mark. If it takes less than 20 seconds, you could benefit from a low-flow shower head. A top quality, low-flow shower head will cost $10 to $20 and pay for itself in energy saved within 4 months. Lower quality shower heads may simply restrict water flow, which often results in poor performance.

Because of the different uses of bathroom and kitchen faucets, you may need to have different water flow rates in each location. For bathroom faucets, aerators that deliver 0.5 to 1 gallon (1.9 to 3.8 liters) of water per minute may be sufficient. Kitchen faucets may require a higher flow rate of 2 to 4 gallons (7.6 to 15.1 liters) per minute if you regularly fill the sink for washing dishes. On the other hand, if you tend to let the water run when washing dishes, the lower flow rate of 0.5 to 1 gallon per minute may be more appropriate. Some aerators come with shut-off valves that allow you to stop the flow of water without affecting the temperature.

Automatic Dishwashers

A relatively common assumption is that washing dishes by hand saves hot water. However, washing dishes by hand several times a day could be more expensive than operating some automatic dishwashers. If properly used, an efficient dishwasher can consume less energy than washing dishes by hand, particularly when you only operate the dishwasher with full loads.

The biggest cost of operating a dishwasher comes from the energy required to heat the water before it ever makes it to the machine. Heating water for an automatic dishwasher can represent about 80% of the energy required to run this appliance. Average dishwashers use 8 to 14 gallons (30.3 to 53 liters) of water for a complete wash cycle and require a water temperature of 140°F (60°C) for optimum cleaning.

But, setting your water heater so high could result in excessive standby heat loss. This type of heat loss occurs because water is constantly heated in the storage tank, even when no hot water is used. Furthermore, a water heater temperature of 120°F (48.9°C) is sufficient for other uses of hot water in the home. The question, then, is must you give up effective cleaning for hot water energy savings? The answer is no.

A “booster” heater can increase the temperature of the water entering the dishwasher to the 140°F recommended for cleaning. Some dishwashers have built-in boosters that will automatically raise the water temperature, while others require manual selection before the wash cycle begins. A booster heater can add about $30 to the cost of a new dishwasher but should pay for itself in water-heating energy savings in about 1 year if you also lower your water heater temperature. Reducing the water heater temperature is not advisable, however, if your dishwasher does not have a booster heater.

Another feature that reduces hot-water use in dishwashers is the availability of cycle selections. Shorter cycles require less water, thereby reducing the energy cost. The most efficient dishwasher currently on the market can cost half as much to operate as the most inefficient model.

If you are planning to purchase a new dishwasher, check the EnergyGuide labels and compare the approximate yearly energy costs among brands. Dishwashers fall into one of two categories—compact capacity or standard capacity. Although compact capacity dishwashers may appear to be more energy efficient, they hold fewer dishes and may force you to use the appliance more frequently than you would use a standard-capacity model. In this case, your energy costs could be higher than with the standard-capacity dishwasher.

Turning the hot-water faucet off while shaving or brushing your teeth, as opposed to letting the water run, can reduce water-heating costs. An efficient automatic dishwasher can consume less energy than washing dishes by hand, particularly when you only operate the dishwasher with full loads.

Washing Machines

Like dishwashers, much of the cost—up to 90%—of operating washing machines is associated with the energy needed to heat the water. Unlike dishwashers, washing machines do not require a minimum temperature for optimum cleaning. Either cold or warm water can be used for washing most laundry loads; cold water is always sufficient for rinsing. Make sure you follow the cold-water washing instructions for your particular laundry detergent. Washing only full loads is another good rule of thumb for reducing hot-water consumption in clothes washers. As you would for dishwashers, consult the EnergyGuide labels when shopping for a new washing machine. Inefficient washing machines can cost three times as much to operate as efficient machines. Select a machine that allows you to adjust the water temperature and water levels for the size of the load. Also, front-loading machines use less water and, consequently, less energy than top loaders.

However, in this country, front loaders are not as widely available as top loaders. Keep in mind that the capacity of front loaders may be smaller than that of most top-loading machines.

Smaller capacity washing machines often have better EnergyGuide ratings. However, a reduced capacity might cause you to increase the number of loads you wash and possibly increase your energy costs.

Faucets, shower heads, dishwashers, and washing machines are only destination points for hot water in your home. The journey of your hot water before it reaches these outlets can be fraught with opportunities for energy losses. Fortunately, you can reduce the incidence of water heat loss from the point of departure to the point of arrival by applying a few basic measures.

This document was produced for the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) by the National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL), a DOE national laboratory. DOE/GO-10095-063

Copper Piping

January 4, 2015

Copper is a common, malleable metal that occurs naturally in rock, soil, water, sediment, and air. It is used to make products such as coins, electrical wiring, and water pipes for household plumbing.

Though a small amount of copper is required by the human body as an essential nutrient, long-term exposure to elevated levels of copper in drinking water may cause serious health problems. Research has shown that short periods of exposure to high levels of copper can cause gastrointestinal disturbance, including nausea and vomiting. Using water with elevated levels of copper over many years may cause liver or kidney damage.

Corroding pipes and brass components of household piping systems are the primary source of copper in drinking water. Signs that drinking water may have elevated levels of copper include a metallic taste or blue to blue-green stains around sinks and plumbing fixtures. The corrosion leads to the release of copper ions and the deposit of corrosion by products on the pipe wall. The solubility of these by-products ultimately determines the level of copper at our taps. The only way to accurately determine the level of copper in drinking water is to have the water tested by a state certified laboratory.

There are two types of copper corrosion: uniform and nonuniform. Both types are caused by certain characteristics of water chemistry, including low pH, high alkalinity, and the presence of sulfates or nitrates.

Uniform corrosion is identified by the presence of a relatively uniform deposition of copper corrosion by-products across the inner surface of a pipe wall and is typically associated with elevated copper levels at our taps.

Nonuniform corrosion, or pitting, is the isolated development of corrosion cells across the inner surface of a pipe wall. Although pitting corrosion is seldom associated with elevated levels of copper at our taps, excessive pitting corrosion can lead to “pinhole” leaks in the pipe, which could result in water damage and mold growth.

Regulations

In 1991, EPA published the Lead and Copper Rule. This rule minimizes lead and copper levels in drinking water, primarily by reducing water corrosivity. It establishes an Action Level of 0.015 milligrams per liter (mg/L) for lead and 1.3 mg/L for copper in 90 percent of the first-draw water samples standing for more than six hours and taken at sites meeting particular number, age, and plumbing material requirements. The Action Level is the lowest level to which water utilities can reasonably be required to control lead if it occurs in drinking water at their customers’ home taps. (Note: An Action Level exceedance is not a violation but can trigger other requirements such as monitoring and treatment.)

These regulations are called the National Primary Drinking Water Regulations. All public water utilities must abide by them.

Source: U.S. Environmental Protection Agency

A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture, and Your Home

December 29, 2014

Mold Basics
Mold Cleanup
Mold Cleanup Guidelines
What to Wear When Cleaning Moldy Areas
Moisture and Mold Prevention and Control Tips
Hidden Mold
Additional Resources

Mold Basics

The key to mold control is moisture control.
If mold is a problem in your home, you should clean up the mold promptly and fix the water problem.
It is important to dry water-damaged areas and items within 24-48 hours to prevent mold growth.

Why is Mold Growing in My Home?

Molds are part of the natural environment. Outdoors, molds play a part in nature by breaking down dead organic matter such as fallen leaves and dead trees, but indoors, mold growth should be avoided. Molds reproduce by means of tiny spores; the spores are invisible to the naked eye and float through outdoor and indoor air. Mold may begin growing indoors when mold spores land on surfaces that are wet. There are many types of mold, and none of them will grow without water or moisture.

Can Mold Cause Health Problems?

Molds are usually not a problem indoors, unless mold spores land on a wet or damp spot and begin growing. Molds have the potential to cause health problems. Molds produce allergens (substances that can cause allergic reactions), irritants, and in some cases, potentially toxic substances (mycotoxins). Inhaling or touching mold or mold spores may cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. Allergic responses include hay fever-type symptoms, such as sneezing, runny nose, red eyes, and skin rash (dermatitis). Allergic reactions to mold are common. They can be immediate or delayed. Molds can also cause asthma attacks in people with asthma who are allergic to mold. In addition, mold exposure can irritate the eyes, skin, nose, throat, and lungs of both mold-allergic and non-allergic people. Symptoms other than the allergic and irritant types are not commonly reported as a result of inhaling mold. Research on mold and health effects is ongoing. This brochure provides a brief overview; it does not describe all potential health effects related to mold exposure. For more detailed information consult a health professional. You may also wish to consult your state or local health department.

How Do I Get Rid of Mold?

It is impossible to get rid of all mold and mold spores indoors; some mold spores will be found floating through the air and in house dust. The mold spores will not grow if moisture is not present. Indoor mold growth can and should be prevented or controlled by controlling moisture indoors. If there is mold growth in your home, you must clean up the mold and fix the water problem. If you clean up the mold, but don’t fix the water problem, then, most likely, the mold problem will come back.

Mold Cleanup

Who Should Do the Clean Up? Who should do the cleanup depends on a number of factors. One consideration is the size of the mold problem. If the moldy area is less than about 10 square feet (less than roughly a 3 ft. by 3 ft. patch), in most cases, you can handle the job yourself, following the guidelines below. However:

If there has been a lot of water damage, and/or mold growth covers more than 10 square feet, consult the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) guide: Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings. Although focused on schools and commercial buildings, this document is applicable to other building types. It is available free by calling the EPA Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse at (800) 438-4318, or on the Internet at epa.gov/iaq/molds/.
If you choose to hire a contractor (or other professional service provider) to do the cleanup, make sure the contractor has experience cleaning up mold. Check references and ask the contractor to follow the recommendations in EPA’s Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings, the guidelines of the American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygenists (ACGIH), or other guidelines from professional or government organizations.
If you suspect that the heating/ventilation/air conditioning (HVAC) system may be contaminated with mold (it is part of an identified moisture problem, for instance, or there is mold near the intake to the system), consult EPA’s guide Should You Have the Air Ducts in Your Home Cleaned? before taking further action. Do not run the HVAC system if you know or suspect that it is contaminated with mold – it could spread mold throughout the building. Visit epa.gov/iaq/pubs/airduct.html, or call (800) 438-4318 for a free copy.
If the water and/or mold damage was caused by sewage or other contaminated water, then call in a professional who has experience cleaning and fixing buildings damaged by contaminated water.
If you have health concerns, consult a health professional before starting cleanup.

Mold Cleanup Guidelines

The tips and techniques presented in this section will help you clean up your mold problem. Professional cleaners or remediators may use methods not covered in this publication. Please note that mold may cause staining and cosmetic damage. It may not be possible to clean an item so that its original appearance is restored.

Fix plumbing leaks and other water problems as soon as possible. Dry all items completely.
Scrub mold off hard surfaces with detergent and water, and dry completely.
Absorbent or porous materials, such as ceiling tiles and carpet, may have to be thrown away if they become moldy. Mold can grow on or fill in the empty spaces and crevices of porous materials, so the mold may be difficult or impossible to remove completely.
Avoid exposing yourself or others to mold (see discussions: What to Wear When Cleaning Moldy Areas and Hidden Mold).
Do not paint or caulk moldy surfaces. Clean up the mold and dry the surfaces before painting. Paint applied over moldy surfaces is likely to peel.
If you are unsure about how to clean an item, or if the item is expensive or of sentimental value, you may wish to consult a specialist. Specialists in furniture repair, restoration, painting, art restoration and conservation, carpet and rug cleaning, water damage, and fire or water restoration are commonly listed in phone books.

Be sure to ask for and check references. Look for specialists who are affiliated with professional organizations.

What to Wear When Cleaning Moldy Areas

Avoid breathing in mold or mold spores. In order to limit your exposure to airborne mold, you may want to wear an N-95 respirator, available at many hardware stores and from companies that advertise on the Internet. (They cost about $12 to $25.) Some N-95 respirators resemble a paper dust mask with a nozzle on the front, others are made primarily of plastic or rubber and have removable cartridges that trap most of the mold spores from entering. In order to be effective, the respirator or mask must fit properly, so carefully follow the instructions supplied with the respirator. Please note that the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) requires that respirators fit properly (fit testing) when used in an occupational setting; consult OSHA for more information (800-321-OSHA or osha.gov/ ).
Wear gloves. Long gloves that extend to the middle of the forearm are recommended. When working with water and a mild detergent, ordinary household rubber gloves may be used. If you are using a disinfectant, a biocide such as chlorine bleach, or a strong cleaning solution, you should select gloves made from natural rubber, neoprene, nitrile, polyurethane, or PVC (see Cleanup and Biocides). Avoid touching mold or moldy items with your bare hands.
Wear goggles. Goggles that do not have ventilation holes are recommended. Avoid getting mold or mold spores in your eyes.

How Do I Know When the Remediation or Cleanup is Finished?

You must have completely fixed the water or moisture problem before the cleanup or remediation can be considered finished.

You should have completed mold removal. Visible mold and moldy odors should not be present. Please note that mold may cause staining and cosmetic damage
You should have revisited the site(s) shortly after cleanup and it should show no signs of water damage or mold growth.
People should have been able to occupy or re-occupy the area without health complaints or physical symptoms.
Ultimately, this is a judgment call; there is no easy answer. If you have concerns or questions call the EPA Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse at (800) 438-4318.

Moisture and Mold Prevention and Control Tips

Moisture control is the key to mold control, so when water leaks or spills occur indoors – ACT QUICKLY. If wet or damp materials or areas are dried 24-48 hours after a leak or spill happens, in most cases mold will not grow.
Clean and repair roof gutters regularly.
Make sure the ground slopes away from the building foundation, so that water does not enter or collect around the foundation.
Keep air conditioning drip pans clean and the drain lines unobstructed and flowing properly.
Keep indoor humidity low. If possible, keep indoor humidity below 60 percent (ideally between 30 and 50 percent) relative humidity. Relative humidity can be measured with a moisture or humidity meter, a small, inexpensive ($10-$50) instrument available at many hardware stores.
If you see condensation or moisture collecting on windows, walls or pipes ACT QUICKLY to dry the wet surface and reduce the moisture/water source. Condensation can be a sign of high humidity.

Actions That Will Help to Reduce Humidity

Vent appliances that produce moisture, such as clothes dryers, stoves, and kerosene heaters to the outside where possible. (Combustion appliances such as stoves and kerosene heaters produce water vapor and will increase the humidity unless vented to the outside.)
Use air conditioners and/or de-humidifiers when needed.

Run the bathroom fan or open the window when showering. Use exhaust fans or open windows whenever cooking, running the dishwasher or dishwashing, etc.

Actions That Will Help Prevent Condensation

Reduce the humidity (see above).
Increase ventilation or air movement by opening doors and/or windows, when practical. Use fans as needed.
Cover cold surfaces, such as cold water pipes, with insulation.
Increase air temperature.

Hidden Mold

Suspicion of Hidden Mold

You may suspect hidden mold if a building smells moldy, but you cannot see the source, or if you know there has been water damage and residents are reporting health problems. Mold may be hidden in places such as the back side of dry wall, wallpaper, or paneling, the top side of ceiling tiles, the underside of carpets and pads, etc. Other possible locations of hidden mold include areas inside walls around pipes (with leaking or condensing pipes), the surface of walls behind furniture (where condensation forms), inside ductwork, and in roof materials above ceiling tiles (due to roof leaks or insufficient insulation).

Investigating hidden mold problems

Investigating hidden mold problems may be difficult and will require caution when the investigation involves disturbing potential sites of mold growth. For example, removal of wallpaper can lead to a massive release of spores if there is mold growing on the underside of the paper. If you believe that you may have a hidden mold problem, consider hiring an experienced professional.

Cleanup and Biocides

Biocides are substances that can destroy living organisms. The use of a chemical or biocide that kills organisms such as mold (chlorine bleach, for example) is not recommended as a routine practice during mold cleanup. There may be instances, however, when professional judgment may indicate its use (for example, when immune-compromised individuals are present). In most cases, it is not possible or desirable to sterilize an area; a background level of mold spores will remain – these spores will not grow if the moisture problem has been resolved. If you choose to use disinfectants or biocides, always ventilate the area and exhaust the air to the outdoors. Never mix chlorine bleach solution with other cleaning solutions or detergents that contain ammonia because toxic fumes could be produced.

Please note: Dead mold may still cause allergic reactions in some people, so it is not enough to simply kill the mold, it must also be removed.

Additional Resources

For more information on mold related issues including mold cleanup and moisture control/condensation/humidity issues, you can call the EPA Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse at (800) 438-4318.

EPA’s Mold Resources page (http://www.epa.gov/iaq/molds)
The EPA publication, Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings (EPA 402-K-01-001, March 2001), is available.
Other Indoor Air Quality Publications – www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs

EPA’s “A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisure, and Your Home” (PDF, 2 pp, 245KB)

Mold, Mildew & Safety Issues

December 3, 2014

Molds, mildew and fungus are microorganisms. They are found in damp surfaces like bathroom walls, window trims, and in places where water can accumulate like basements that flood.

Mold and fungus organisms will grow on materials that get dampened by water leaks and/or condensation.

They can look like black stains, or specks of black, white, orange, green, or brown. These types of microorganisms can cause infections, allergies, asthma, and other breathing problems. There are many types of molds. Take a tour of your home and look for the following;

Leaks in your roof or plumbing – Any water that is trapped inside walls or under carpeting will cause molds to grow there. In not so obvious places, check to see if your walls or rugs have light stains or a strong musty smell.
Mold in your basement – Rain or moisture can penetrate your home’s concrete foundation and make the bottom of carpets or inside of finished walls moldy.
Dampness at the base of the walls.
Rust at the base of steel posts or heaters.
Stains, discoloration or decay on wood partitions, paneling, drywall and wood posts.
White powdery substance on the concrete.
Peeling floor tiles.
Mildewed carpeting.

If you find a leak in your roof or plumbing, mold in any area of your home or flooding in your basement, don’t panic! There are steps to take to clean and disinfect the areas that have been affected. Although cleaning walls and floors is laboring and time consuming it is necessary to do it properly to get the best results. If you are unable to remove the mold or do not want to attempt to remove it, seek the services of a mold removal company. But remember, it must be done. The effects of mold are very dangerous so make sure to deal with the problem.

Types of Mold

There are many types of mold, some of which can be just a mild nuisance while others can be toxic and can produce serious health problems to those who are exposed to it.

The issue of mold contamination poses a serious health threat for many people who may or may not be aware that they are possibly at risk in their homes, schools and workplaces.

Toxic Mold

Some types of mold may contain mycotoxins that can be life-threatening to everyone especially infants, the elderly and any person with immune system deficiencies.

Stachybotrys chartarum is a type of toxic mold which will grow anywhere indoors where there is moisture. This type of mold is most commonly found in homes or buildings that have sustained flooding or water damage, roof, wall or floor leaks or condensation.

It continues to grow as long as the area remains damp or wet.

It is usually black in appearance (but can be other colors), slightly shiny at first and powdery when dry.

The World Health Organization and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency have raised concerns about the dangers of poor air quality and how it is related to SBS (sick building syndrome.)

Common Places to Find Toxic Mold

Paper covering of gypsum wall board
Wallpaper
Cellulose based ceiling tiles
Paper products
Carpets with natural fibers
Paper covering on insulated pipes
Insulation material
Wood and wood paneling
General organic debris
Paper covering on fiberglass insulation

Mild symptoms to mold exposure can produce flu-like discomforts such as a stuffy nose, eye irritation or wheezing. Severe reactions occur when people are exposed to large amounts of mold which may cause fever and shortness of breath. Those with chronic mold exposure may suffer from obstructive lung disease or lung infections.

Common Types of Indoor Mold

Cladosporium
Penicillium
Aspergillus
Alternaria

Effects of Mold

Mold is present both indoors and outdoors. It is likely to grow in areas where water and dampness are present.

Mold most commonly grows in the following places:

Basements
Kitchens
Bathrooms
Closets
Clothing
Carpeting
Wallpaper
Furniture
Plants
Cement walls
Food

The effects of mold can be damaging. Not only can mold cause great damage to the area that it grows in, but it can also affect the health of those who are exposed to it.

These are some of the possible effects of mold to be cautious of:

Effects on Air Quality – Everyone is exposed to mold on a daily basis without harm. However, mold spores can become dangerous when they enter the air and are inhaled in large numbers.
The effects of mold on air quality are suspected as being the cause of a variety of inhalation exposure illnesses such as asthma and sinusitis.

Common symptoms of these illnesses include:

respiratory problems
nasal and sinus congestion
eye-burning, blurry vision, light sensitivity
severely dry cough
sore throat
shortness of breath

A physician should be consulted if you suspect that you are suffering from an inhalation exposure illness.

Mold in Furniture – A piece of furniture may become contaminated by mold if it has come into contact with excessive moisture or with settled mold spores. These settled spores might aggravate allergies in some people.

It is highly recommended that affected furniture be removed from the home in order to improve the air quality and reduce the risk of respiratory illnesses.

Cleaning the furniture can not ensure the complete removal of mold. Such items as couches and mattresses must be specially treated in order to completely remove mold. With such items as bed pillows, throw pillows, and stuffed animals, however, it may be more cost effective to dispose of the items than to treat them.

Mold in Wallpaper – In warm environment, vinyl wallpaper can trap moisture-filled air. The trapped moisture serves as a breeding ground for mold. The mold will eat the drywall, the glue that holds the wallpaper, and the wallpaper itself.

It is always a good idea to use paint or apply wall-coverings with permeable paper backings that do not trap moisture on exterior walls.

Mold in Clothing – Mold can be found in damp-ridden clothing. Wearing contaminated clothing may cause allergies and skin irritations.

In order to properly clean mold from clothing follow these directions:

Fill the washing machine up with water
Pour in 20 mule team borax and hydrogen peroxide
Put clothing into the machine and let them spin for 2 minutes
Stop the spin cycle, and let clothes soak for about 4 hours
Allow clothes to go through normal wash cycle

When cycle is finished, it is recommended that these directions be followed a second time.

Mold in Carpeting – Carpeting that was saturated with water (i.e. from a flood) will most likely grow mold. If the carpet is not removed immediately following saturation, mold spores will settle and affect the air quality of your home. Respiratory problems are a common cause of carpet mold.

Carpet cleaning will not kill the mold. All wet or damp carpeting must be ripped out and thrown away. The longer the carpeting remains in your home, the worse the mold problem will be.

Mold Treatment

Fabrics

Beds and carpeting should always be discarded. These items cannot be cleaned.
Draperies and clothing can be saved by washing or dry cleaning.
Floors and Walls
Moldy walls, ceilings, and floors must be washed more than once to properly clean and disinfect.
Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands.
After cleaning, the surface should be allowed to thoroughly dry.
Wash the walls, ceilings, or floors again using a mixture of liquid household chlorine bleach and water.

If you have water in your basement, remove as many items as possible furniture, carpeting, and stored boxes of clothing or appliances. Use a disinfectant or chlorine bleach solution to scrub walls, paneling, and sheet rock.

Controlling Condensation

There are two ways to control condensation; insulation and dehumidification. Here are some ways to help keep your basement dry.

Use a fan to circulate basement air.
Use a humidifier to remove excess moisture in the air.
Do not keep wet clothing or materials around the house, use a dryer or clothesline to dry them.
If your basement is damp, get a dehumidifier to remove moisture from the air.
Air conditioners are great for the summer months; they remove some moisture as well as cool the air.
Rugs are better than carpeting for basements because they can be removed and cleaned easier and lessen the headache when there is water damage to your basement (although a sump pump will prevent flooding altogether).

Solutions

Always keep your home as dry as possible.
Do not wait to make repairs on your roof and plumbing leaks.
Using a sump pump is the best device to keep water out of your basement.
Never ignore the dangers and effects of mold.

Source: www.sump-pump-info.com

Experts Warn Flood-Damaged Appliances Should Be Replaced

November 22, 2014

What you need to know about HVACR equipment affected by flooding

Floods and HVACR Equipment

After a flood or storm surge from a hurricane, homeowners are advised to take important safety precautions with regard to their home’s heating and cooling systems. A house or basement exposed to standing water can damage your home’s water heater, furnace, boiler, air-conditioning, ventilation, and heat pump system — putting your family at risk.

Replace, Don’t Repair

Flood-damaged heating and cooling equipment and systems should be replaced and not repaired, according to AHRI. All inspection and replacement work on flooded equipment should be performed by qualified heating and cooling contractors, not by homeowners. You can turn misfortune into opportunity by considering new, energy-efficient models that will lower your future energy bills. Also ask your local utility about available rebates for new energy-efficient gas or propane furnaces.

Ductwork

If you have a central forced-air furnace in the house you are repairing, pay attention to your ductwork too. A qualified heating contractor will not try to salvage duct insulation that has been in contact with flood water, but will replace it because it is impossible to decontaminate. Your contractor also will clean, dry and disinfect the ductwork. Doing a thorough job will require disassembling the ductwork. These repairs to your ductwork also give your contractor the opportunity seal joints in the ductwork and improve insulation to reduce heat loss.

Gas Furnaces and Boilers

If there is any question whether flood water has reached a gas appliance, have the unit checked by a qualified heating contractor. Natural gas furnaces, space heaters and boilers all have gas valves and controls that are especially vulnerable to water damage from floods and that damage may not be easy to detect. Corrosion begins inside the valves and controls, and damage may not be readily visible, even if the outside of the device is clean and dry. At a minimum, this damage can result in reliability problems.

Electric Furnaces

An electric furnace consists of electrically heated coils, a fan to provide air circulation across the coils, and controls which include safety relays. Just like the gas-fired warm-air furnace, the electric furnace is susceptible to corrosion and damage, resulting in reliability problems or safety hazards. If there is any question whether flood water has reached an electric furnace, have the unit checked by a qualified heating contractor.

Propane Heating

Use extreme caution when there is the potential for propane leaks and get propane equipment checked, repaired and/or replaced by a qualified heating contractor as quickly as possible after a flood. In every case, your contractor must replace all valves and controls that have been in contact with flood water. Propane systems also require attention to their gas pressure regulator. This regulator contains a small vent hole in its body to sense outside pressure. For effective gas pressure regulation, this hole must always remain unobstructed. During a flood, debris can easily plug the hole, causing dangerous malfunction or corrosion. The regulator should be replaced, as water from floods can carry corrosive chemicals.

Radiant Ceiling Heat

In this type of heating system, electrically-heated cables are embedded in the plaster or drywall ceiling. The cables warm the ceiling, which in turn warms the room by radiant heat. If the ceiling becomes wet from a flood, the plasterboard will weaken and perhaps crack, and the ceiling will need replacement. Although the electrical cables themselves may appear to be undamaged due to their tough, waterproof coating, there may have been large mechanical stresses on the cable, and a qualified electrician should be consulted to determine whether the cable is reusable.

Heat Pumps and Air Conditioning Systems

Split air conditioning and heat pump systems have power and control wiring between the indoor and outdoor parts of the system, and the piping that moves the refrigerant from inside to outside the home and back.

Even if the system is in contact with flood water for a long period, this sealed system is likely to remain intact. However, if flood water has repositioned either the indoor or outdoor units of a split system by only a small amount, there is the potential for a breached refrigerant system. The heat pump (or air conditioning system) will then require major repair or full replacement.

If the refrigerant system remains intact after the flood, the entire system should be cleaned, dried, and disinfected. You should have a qualified heating and cooling contractor check all electrical and refrigeration connections for both indoor and outdoor units, including all control circuits. The decision to repair or replace should be made by a qualified professional on a case-by-case basis.

Water Heating Systems

Whether your water heater is gas-fired, oil-fired or electric, if it was exposed to flood water, the unit should be replaced. A new water heater is a relatively small investment, and replacing it is fairly easy to do.

In a gas unit, valves and controls will likely corrode. In an electric unit, the thermostat and controls will likely corrode. In both types, the insulation surrounding the unit will be contaminated and will be nearly impossible to disinfect. Additionally, the insulation would take a long time to dry, leading to corrosion of the tank from the outside.

Even if water heater components have been cleaned and the unit seems to operate properly, parts may corrode in the future. Both gas and electric water heaters have a pressure relief valve that can corrode and stick after being exposed to flood water. Be sure, therefore, to replace this valve as well.

Government Aid

For victims of some natural disasters, government aid may be available to help consumers finance the replacement of flood-damaged HVAC equipment. Homeowners should contact any of the offices of the Federal Emergency Management Agency (www.fema.gov) set up to help flood victims in your area.

Mold Resources

November 16, 2014

Introduction to Molds
Basic Mold Cleanup
Ten Things You Should Know About Mold
Asthma and Mold
Floods/Flooding
Health and Mold
Homes and Mold
Indoor Air Regulations and Mold
Large Buildings and Mold
Schools and Mold and Indoor Air Quality

Introduction to Molds

Molds produce tiny spores to reproduce. Mold spores waft through the indoor and outdoor air continually. When mold spores land on a damp spot indoors, they may begin growing and digesting whatever they are growing on in order to survive. There are molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, and foods. When excessive moisture or water accumulates indoors, mold growth will often occur, particularly if the moisture problem remains undiscovered or unaddressed. There is no practical way to eliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment; the way to control indoor mold growth is to control moisture.

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Basic Mold Cleanup

The key to mold control is moisture control. It is important to dry water damaged areas and items within 24-48 hours to prevent mold growth. If mold is a problem in your home, clean up the mold and get rid of the excess water or moisture. Fix leaky plumbing or other sources of water. Wash mold off hard surfaces with detergent and water, and dry completely. Absorbent materials (such as ceiling tiles & carpet) that become moldy may have to be replaced.

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Ten Things You Should Know About Mold

Potential health effects and symptoms associated with mold exposures include allergic reactions, asthma, and other respiratory complaints.
There is no practical way to eliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment; the way to control indoor mold growth is to control moisture.
If mold is a problem in your home or school, you must clean up the mold and eliminate sources of moisture.
Fix the source of the water problem or leak to prevent mold growth.
Reduce indoor humidity (to 30-60% ) to decrease mold growth by: venting bathrooms, dryers, and other moisture-generating sources to the outside; using air conditioners and de-humidifiers; increasing ventilation; and using exhaust fans whenever cooking, dishwashing, and cleaning.
Clean and dry any damp or wet building materials and furnishings within 24-48 hours to prevent mold growth.
Clean mold off hard surfaces with water and detergent, and dry completely. Absorbent materials such as ceiling tiles, that are moldy, may need to be replaced.
Prevent condensation: Reduce the potential for condensation on cold surfaces (i.e., windows, piping, exterior walls, roof, or floors) by adding insulation.
In areas where there is a perpetual moisture problem, do not install carpeting (i.e., by drinking fountains, by classroom sinks, or on concrete floors with leaks or frequent condensation).
Molds can be found almost anywhere; they can grow on virtually any substance, providing moisture is present. There are molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, and foods.

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Asthma and Mold

Molds can trigger asthma episodes in sensitive individuals with asthma. People with asthma should avoid contact with or exposure to molds.

Allergy & Asthma Network/Mothers of Asthmatics (AAN/MA): (800) 878-4403; http://www.aanma.org/
American Academy of Allergy, Asthma & Immunology (AAAAI): www.aaaai.org
American Lung Association: 1-800-LUNG-USA (1-800-586-4872); http://www.lungusa.org/
Asthma & Allergy Foundation of America: (800) 7ASTHMA; http://www.aafa.org/
Canada Mortgage & Housing Corporation “Fighting Mold – The Homeowner’s Guide”
National Institute of Allergy and Infectious Diseases: http://www.niaid.nih.gov/
National Jewish Medical and Research Center: (800) 222-LUNG (5864)

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Floods/Flooding

Mold growth may be a problem after flooding. EPA’s Fact Sheet: Flood Cleanup: Avoiding Indoor Air Quality Problems– discusses steps to take when cleaning and repairing a home after flooding. Excess moisture in the home is cause for concern about indoor air quality primarily because it provides breeding conditions for microorganisms. This fact sheet provides tips to avoid creating indoor air quality problems during cleanup. U.S. EPA, EPA Document Number 402-F-93-005, August 1993.

Additional Resources:

Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA): (800) 480-2520; http://www.fema.gov/ Flood information – www.fema.gov/hazard/flood/index.shtm
U.S. Department of Health and Human Services (HHS), Centers for Disease Control and Prevention’s (CDC) Emergency Preparedness and Response page on “Protect Yourself from Mold” – www.bt.cdc.gov/disasters/mold/protect.asp and Key Facts About Hurricane Recovery –
University of Minnesota, Department of Environmental Health and Safety – www.dehs.umn.edu/iaq.htm Flood Information – www.dehs.umn.edu/iaq_fi.htm

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Health and Mold

How do molds affect people?

Some people are sensitive to molds. For these people, exposure to molds can cause symptoms such as nasal stuffiness, eye irritation, wheezing, or skin irritation. Some people, such as those with serious allergies to molds, may have more severe reactions. Severe reactions may occur among workers exposed to large amounts of molds in occupational settings, such as farmers working around moldy hay. Severe reactions may include fever and shortness of breath. Some people with chronic lung illnesses, such as obstructive lung disease, may develop mold infections in their lungs.

EPA’s publication, Indoor Air Pollution: An Introduction for Health Professionals, assists health professionals (especially the primary care physician) in diagnosis of patient symptoms that could be related to an indoor air pollution problem. It addresses the health problems that may be caused by contaminants encountered daily in the home and office. Organized according to pollutant or pollutant groups such as environmental tobacco smoke, VOCs, biological pollutants, and sick building syndrome, this booklet lists key signs and symptoms from exposure to these pollutants, provides a diagnostic checklist and quick reference summary, and includes suggestions for remedial action. Also includes references for information contained in each section. This booklet was developed by the American Lung Association, the American Medical Association, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, and the EPA. EPA Document Reference Number 402-R-94-007, 1994.

Allergic Reactions – excerpted from Indoor Air Pollution: An Introduction for Health Professionals section on: Animal Dander, Molds, Dust Mites, Other Biologicals.

“A major concern associated with exposure to biological pollutants is allergic reactions, which range from rhinitis, nasal congestion, conjunctival inflammation, and urticaria to asthma. Notable triggers for these diseases are allergens derived from house dust mites; other arthropods, including cockroaches; pets (cats, dogs, birds, rodents); molds; and protein-containing furnishings, including feathers, kapok, etc. In occupational settings, more unusual allergens (e.g., bacterial enzymes, algae) have caused asthma epidemics. Probably most proteins of non-human origin can cause asthma in a subset of any appropriately exposed population.”

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Homes and Mold

The EPA publication, “A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture, and Your Home”, and Spanish (PDF, 20 pp, 796KB). This Guide provides information and guidance for homeowners and renters on how to clean up residential mold problems and how to prevent mold growth.

Biological Pollutants in Your Home – This document explains indoor biological pollution, health effects of biological pollutants, and how to control their growth and buildup. One third to one half of all structures have damp conditions that may encourage development of pollutants such as molds and bacteria, which can cause allergic reactions — including asthma — and spread infectious diseases. Describes corrective measures for achieving moisture control and cleanliness. This brochure was prepared by the American Lung Association and the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission. The publication was updated by CPSC in 1997

Moisture control is the key to mold control, the Moisture Control Section from Biological Pollutants in Your Home follows:

Moisture Control

Water in your home can come from many sources. Water can enter your home by leaking or by seeping through basement floors. Showers or even cooking can add moisture to the air in your home. The amount of moisture that the air in your home can hold depends on the temperature of the air. As the temperature goes down, the air is able to hold less moisture. This is why, in cold weather, moisture condenses on cold surfaces (for example, drops of water form on the inside of a window). This moisture can encourage biological pollutants to grow.

There Are Many Ways to Control Moisture in Your Home:

Fix leaks and seepage. If water is entering the house from the outside, your options range from simple landscaping to extensive excavation and waterproofing. (The ground should slope away from the house.) Water in the basement can result from the lack of gutters or a water flow toward the house. Water leaks in pipes or around tubs and sinks can provide a place for biological pollutants to grow.
Put a plastic cover over dirt in crawlspaces to prevent moisture from coming in from the ground. Be sure crawlspaces are well-ventilated.
Use exhaust fans in bathrooms and kitchens to remove moisture to the outside (not into the attic). Vent your clothes dryer to the outside.
Turn off certain appliances (such as humidifiers or kerosene heaters) if you notice moisture on windows and other surfaces.
Use dehumidifiers and air conditioners, especially in hot, humid climates, to reduce moisture in the air, but be sure that the appliances themselves don’t become sources of biological pollutants.
Raise the temperature of cold surfaces where moisture condenses. Use insulation or storm windows. (A storm window installed on the inside works better than one installed on the outside.) Open doors between rooms (especially doors to closets which may be colder than the rooms) to increase circulation. Circulation carries heat to the cold surfaces. Increase air circulation by using fans and by moving furniture from wall corners to promote air and heat circulation. Be sure that your house has a source of fresh air and can expel excessive moisture from the home.
Pay special attention to carpet on concrete floors. Carpet can absorb moisture and serve as a place for biological pollutants to grow. Use area rugs which can be taken up and washed often. In certain climates, if carpet is to be installed over a concrete floor, it may be necessary to use a vapor barrier (plastic sheeting) over the concrete and cover that with sub-flooring (insulation covered with plywood) to prevent a moisture problem.
Moisture problems and their solutions differ from one climate to another. The Northeast is cold and wet; the Southwest is hot and dry; the South is hot and wet; and the Western Mountain states are cold and dry. All of these regions can have moisture problems. For example, evaporative coolers used in the Southwest can encourage the growth of biological pollutants. In other hot regions, the use of air conditioners which cool the air too quickly may prevent the air conditioners from running long enough to remove excess moisture from the air. The types of construction and weatherization for the different climates can lead to different problems and solutions.

Moisture on Windows

Your humidistat is set too high if excessive moisture collects on windows and other cold surfaces. Excess humidity for a prolonged time can damage walls especially when outdoor air temperatures are very low. Excess moisture condenses on window glass because the glass is cold. Other sources of excess moisture besides overuse of a humidifier may be long showers, running water for other uses, boiling or steaming in cooking, plants, and drying clothes indoors. A tight, energy efficient house holds more moisture inside; you may need to run a kitchen or bath ventilating fan sometimes, or open a window briefly. Storm windows and caulking around windows keep the interior glass warmer and reduce condensation of moisture there.

Humidifiers are not recommended for use in buildings without proper vapor barriers because of potential damage from moisture buildup. Consult a building contractor to determine the adequacy of the vapor barrier in your house. Use a humidity indicator to measure the relative humidity in your house. The American Society of Heating and Air Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) recommends these maximum indoor humidity levels.

Outdoor Recommended Indoor Temperature Relative Humidity

+20º F	35%
+10º F	30%
0º F	25%
-10º F	20%
-20º F	15%

Source: Anne Field, Extension Specialist, Emeritus, with reference from the Association for Home Appliance Manufacturers (http://www.aham.org/).

How to Identify the Cause of a Mold and Mildew Problem

Mold and mildew are commonly found on the exterior wall surfaces of corner rooms in heating climate locations. An exposed corner room is likely to be significantly colder than adjoining rooms, so that it has a higher relative humidity (RH) than other rooms at the same water vapor pressure. If mold and mildew growth are found in a corner room, then relative humidity next to the room surfaces is above 70%. However, is the RH above 70% at the surfaces because the room is too cold or because there is too much moisture present (high water vapor pressure)?

The amount of moisture in the room can be estimated by measuring both temperature and RH at the same location and at the same time. Suppose there are two cases. In the first case, assume that the RH is 30% and the temperature is 70º F in the middle of the room. The low RH at that temperature indicates that the water vapor pressure (or absolute humidity) is low. The high surface RH is probably due to room surfaces that are “too cold.” Temperature is the dominating factor, and control strategies should involve increasing the temperature at cold room surfaces.

In the second case, assume that the RH is 50% and the temperature is 70oF in the middle of the room. The higher RH at that temperature indicates that the water vapor pressure is high and there is a relatively large amount of moisture in the air. The high surface RH is probably due to air that is “too moist.” Humidity is the dominating factor, and control strategies should involve decreasing the moisture content of the indoor air.

Should You Have the Air Ducts in Your Home Cleaned?– excerpt on duct cleaning and mold follows, please review the entire document for additional information on duct cleaning and mold.

You should consider having the air ducts in your home cleaned if:

There is substantial visible mold growth inside hard surface (e.g., sheet metal) ducts or on other components of your heating and cooling system. There are several important points to understand concerning mold detection in heating and cooling systems:

Many sections of your heating and cooling system may not be accessible for a visible inspection, so ask the service provider to show you any mold they say exists.
You should be aware that although a substance may look like mold, a positive determination of whether it is mold or not can be made only by an expert and may require laboratory analysis for final confirmation. For about $50, some microbiology laboratories can tell you whether a sample sent to them on a clear strip of sticky household tape is mold or simply a substance that resembles it.
If you have insulated air ducts and the insulation gets wet or moldy it cannot be effectively cleaned and should be removed and replaced.
If the conditions causing the mold growth in the first place are not corrected, mold growth will recur.

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Indoor Air Regulations and Mold

Standards or Threshold Limit Values (TLVs) for airborne concentrations of mold, or mold spores, have not been set. Currently, there are no EPA regulations or standards for airborne mold contaminants.

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Large Buildings and Mold

EPA has a number of resources available, you can start with the Indoor Air Quality Building Evaluation and Assessment Model (I-BEAM). I-BEAM updates and expands EPA’s existing Building Air Quality guidance and is designed to be comprehensive state-of-the-art guidance for managing IAQ in commercial buildings. This guidance was designed to be used by building professionals and others interested in indoor air quality in commercial buildings. I-BEAM contains text, animation/visual, and interactive/calculation components that can be used to perform a number of diverse tasks. See www.epa.gov/iaq/largebldgs/i-beam/index.html

How to Identify the Cause of a Mold and Mildew Problem

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Schools and Mold and Indoor Air Quality

The Agency’s premier resource on this issue is the Indoor Air Quality Tools for Schools kit. Our schools-related resources on the web start at: epa.gov/iaq/schools.

The asthma companion piece for the IAQ Tools for Schools Action kit, is Managing Asthma in the School Environment – epa.gov/iaq/schools/managingasthma.html. This publication has a section entitled Clean Up Mold and Moisture Control: An excerpt follows:

Common Moisture Sources Found in Schools

Moisture problems in school buildings can be caused by a variety of conditions, including roof and plumbing leaks, condensation, and excess humidity. Some moisture problems in schools have been linked to changes in building construction practices during the past twenty to thirty years. These changes have resulted in more tightly sealed buildings that may not allow moisture to escape easily. Moisture problems in schools are also associated with delayed maintenance or insufficient maintenance, due to budget and other constraints. Temporary structures in schools, such as trailers and portable classrooms, have frequently been associated with moisture and mold problems.

Suggestions for Reducing Mold Growth in Schools

Reduce Indoor Humidity

Vent showers and other moisture-generating sources to the outside.
Control humidity levels and dampness by using air conditioners and de-humidifiers.
Provide adequate ventilation to maintain indoor humidity levels between 30-60%.
Use exhaust fans whenever cooking, dishwashing, and cleaning in food service areas.

Inspect the building for signs of mold, moisture, leaks, or spills

Check for moldy odors.
Look for water stains or discoloration on the ceiling, walls, floors, and window sills.
Look around and under sinks for standing water, water stains, or mold.
Inspect bathrooms for standing water, water stains, or mold.
Do not let water stand in air conditioning or refrigerator drip pans.

Respond promptly when you see signs of moisture and/or mold, or when leaks or spills occur

Clean and dry any damp or wet building materials and furnishings within 24-48 hours of occurrence to prevent mold growth.
Fix the source of the water problem or leak to prevent mold growth.
Clean mold off hard surfaces with water and detergent, and dry completely.
Absorbent materials such as ceiling tiles, that are moldy, may need to be replaced.
Check the mechanical room and roof for unsanitary conditions, leaks, or spills.

Prevent moisture condensation

Reduce the potential for condensation on cold surfaces (i.e., windows, piping, exterior walls, roof, or floors) by adding insulation.

Floor and carpet cleaning

Remove spots and stains immediately, using the flooring manufacturer’s recommended techniques.
Use care to prevent excess moisture or cleaning residue accumulation and ensure that cleaned areas are dried quickly.
In areas where there is a perpetual moisture problem, do not install carpeting (i.e., by drinking fountains, by classroom sinks, or on concrete floors with leaks or frequent condensation).

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EPA’s Asthma Brochure (PDF, 2 pp, 245KB)
The publication, “A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisure, and Your Home” (PDF, 20 pp, 278KB)
“Una Breve Guía para el Moho, la Humedad y su Hoga” (PDF, 20 pp, 796KB)
The publication, “Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings” (PDF, 54 pp, 5MB)

Toilet Flange Repair

November 14, 2014

When your toilets get-a-rockin’ it might be time for Your 1 Plumber to come-a-knockin’ – but first, a few words on how to fix it yourself.

A rocking toilet can lead to a water leak and damage your home. And the most likely cause is either a cracked or broken flange.

Think you have the “right stuff” to fix it yourself? Well, then let’s have a go at it!

Here’s what you need to get started:

Screwdriver
Cloth
Nuts and bolts
Spanner flange
Wax gasket

Step-by-Step Process

1. Remove Water

Turn off the water supply and empty the tank by flushing the toilet. Both the toilet tank and toilet bowl should be completely empty of water.

2. Remove Toilet Bowl

If the toilet tank and bowl are connected with an elbow, remove the elbow. You can remove the toilet bowl by unscrewing the nuts and loosening the bolts that tie it to the floor. The toilet bowl can be removed after breaking the wax seal that secures it to the floor and toilet flange. You will see if the flange is broken and/or cracked.

3. Tighten Bolts

If you don’t see a crack, you probably just need to tighten the nuts and bolts, put the toilet bowl back and make sure no water is leaking and the bowl no longer rocks.

4. Full Flange Replacement

If the full flange needs to be replaced, remove the existing flange. Clean the area. Pour concrete and let it set. Set the flange on top of the concrete and screw it in with the bolts.

5. Wax Gasket

Unless the wax gasket is very new, a new one will be necessary. Set the wax gasket down on top of the toilet flange and ensure that it conforms to the flange and toilet to create a tight seal.

6. Setting Up Toilet Again

The toilet should then be set back on the toilet flange and the bolts should be tightened. The water supply tube should be
connected to the shut-off valve. The flush should be checked to see that there are no leaks.

Need Some Help? You Can Count on Your 1 Plumber

If you’re the kind of person not likely to even attempt a job like this, then count on us to lend a help hand. Plus, you can save $25 on any toilet repair project or on a new or replacement toilet with the coupon below.

Preventing Lead in Drinking Water

September 8, 2014

Actions You Can Take To Reduce Lead In Drinking Water

Flush Your Pipes Before Drinking

Anytime the water in a particular faucet has not been used for six hours or longer, “flush” your cold-water pipes by running the water until it becomes as cold as it will get. (This could take as little as five to thirty seconds if there has been recent heavy water use such as showering or toilet flushing. Otherwise, it could take two minutes or longer.) The more time water has been sitting in your home’s pipes, the more lead it may contain.

Only Use Cold Water for Consumption

Use only water from the cold-water tap for drinking, cooking, and especially for making baby formula. Hot water is likely to contain higher levels of lead.The two actions recommended above are very important to the health of your family. They will probably be effective in reducing lead levels because most of the lead in household water usually comes from the plumbing in your house, not from the local water supply.

Have Your Water Tested

After you have taken the two precautions above for reducing the lead in water used for drinking or cooking, have your water tested. The only way to be sure of the amount of lead in your household water is to have it tested by a competent laboratory. Your water supplier may be able to offer information or assistance with testing. Testing is especially important for apartment dwellers, because flushing may not be effective in high-rise buildings with lead-soldered central piping.

For more details on the problem of lead in drinking water and what you can do about it, read the questions and answers in the remainder of this booklet. Your local or state department of health or environment might be able to provide additional information.

Health Threats From Lead

Too much lead in the human body can cause serious damage to the brain, kidneys, nervous system, and red blood cells.

You have the greatest risk, even with short term exposure, if you are a young child or you are pregnant.

Sources of Lead in Drinking Water

Lead levels in your drinking water are likely to be highest if:

Your home has faucets or fittings of brass which contains some lead
Your home or water system has lead pipes
Your home has copper pipes with solder
The house is less than five years old
You have naturally soft water
Water often sits in the pipes for several hours

Why is Lead a Problem?

Answer: Although it has been used in numerous consumer products, lead is a toxic metal now known to be harmful to human health if inhaled or ingested. Important sources of lead exposure include: ambient air, soil and dust (both inside and outside the home), food (which can be contaminated by lead in the air or in food containers), and water (from the corrosion of plumbing). On average, it is estimated that lead in drinking water contributes between 10 and 20 percent of total lead exposure in young children. Federal controls on lead in gasoline have significantly reduced people’s exposure to lead. The degree of harm depends upon the level of exposure (from all sources). Known effects of exposure to lead range from subtle biochemical changes at low levels of exposure, to severe neurological and toxic effects or even death at extremely high levels.

Does Lead Affect Everyone Equally?

Answer: Young children, infants and fetuses appear to be particularly vulnerable to lead poisoning. A dose of lead that would have little effect on an adult can have a big effect on a small body. Also, growing children will more rapidly adsorb any lead they consume. A child’s mental and physical development can be irreversibly stunted by over-exposure to lead. In infants, whose diet consists of liquids made with water – such as baby formula – lead in drinking water makes up an even greater proportion of total lead exposure (40 to 60 percent).

How Could Lead Get Into My Drinking Water?

Answer: Typically, lead gets into your water after the water leaves your local treatment plant or your well. That is, the source of lead in your home’s water is most likely pipe or solder in your home’s own plumbing. The most common cause is corrosion, a reaction between the water and the lead pipes or solder. Dissolved oxygen, low pH (acidity) and low mineral content in water are common causes of corrosion.

Does My Home’s Age Make a Difference?

Answer: Lead-contaminated drinking water is most often a problem in houses that are either very old or very new. Up through the early 1900’s, it was common practice, in some areas of the country, to use lead pipes for interior plumbing. Also, lead piping was often used for the service connections that join residences to public water supplies. (This practice ended only recently in some localities.) Plumbing installed before 1930 is most likely to contain lead. Copper pipes have replaced lead pipes in most residential plumbing. However, the use of lead solder with copper pipes is widespread. Experts regard this lead solder as the major cause of lead contamination of household water in U.S. homes today. New brass faucets and fittings can also leach lead, even though they are “lead-free.” Scientific data indicate that the newer the home, the greater the risk of lead contamination. Lead levels decrease as a building ages. This is because, as time passes, mineral deposits form a coating on the inside of the pipes (if the water is not corrosive). This coating insulates the water from the solder. But, during the first five years (before the coating forms) water is in direct contact with the lead. More likely than not, water in buildings less than five years old has high levels of lead contamination.

How Can I Tell if My Water Contains Too Much Lead?

Answer: You should have your water tested for lead. Testing costs between $20 and $100. Since you cannot see, taste, or smell lead dissolved in water, testing is the only sure way of telling whether or not there are harmful quantities of lead in your drinking water. You should be particularly suspicious if your home has lead pipes (lead is a dull gray metal that is soft enough to be easily scratched with a house key), if you see signs of corrosion (frequent leaks, rust-colored water, stained dishes or laundry, or if your non-plastic plumbing is less than five years old. Your water supplier may have useful information, including whether or not the service connector used in your home or area is made of lead. Testing is especially important in high-rise buildings where flushing might not work.

How Do I Have My Water Tested?

Answer: Water samples from the tap will have to be collected and sent to a qualified laboratory for analysis. Contact your local water utility or your local health department for information and assistance. In some instances, these authorities will test your tap water for you, or they can refer you to a qualified laboratory. You may find a qualified testing company under ‘Laboratories” in the yellow pages of your telephone directory. You should be sure that the lab you use has been approved by your state or by EPA as being able to analyze drinking water samples for lead contamination. To find out which labs are qualified, contact your state or local department of the environment or health.

What Are The Testing Procedures?

Answer: Arrangements for sample collection will vary. A few laboratories will send a trained technician to take the samples; but in most cases, the lab will provide sample containers along with instructions as to how you should draw your own tap-water samples. If you collect the samples yourself, make sure you follow the lab’s instructions exactly. Otherwise, the results might not be reliable. Make sure that the laboratory is following EPA’s water sampling and analysis procedures. Be certain to take a “first draw” and a “fully flushed” sample.

Two organizations can help you decide which type of filter is best for you. NSF International, an independent testing agency, evaluates and certifies the performance of filtering devices that remove lead from drinking water. Generally, their seal of approval appears on the device and product packaging. The Water Quality Association (WQA) is an independent, not-for-profit organization that represents firms and individuals who produce and sell equipment and services which improves the quality of drinking water. WQA’s water quality specialists can provide advice on treatment units for specific uses at home or business.

For additional information regarding the certification program, contact NSF at (877) 867-3435, or WQA at (630) 505-0161, ext. 270. You can purchase bottled water for home and office consumption. (Bottled water sold in interstate commerce is regulated by the Food and Drug Administration. Water that is bottled and sold within a state is under state regulation. EPA does not regulate bottled water.) When repairing or installing new plumbing in old homes, instruct, in writing, any plumber you hire to use only lead-free materials. When building a new home, be sure lead-free materials are used. Before you move into a newly built home, remove all strainers from faucets and flush the water for at least 15 minutes to remove loose solder or flux debris from the plumbing. Occasionally, check the strainers and remove any later accumulation of loose material.

What About Lead in Sources Other Than Drinking Water?

Answer: As mentioned above, drinking water is estimated to contribute only 10 to 20 percent of the total lead exposure in young children. Ask your local health department or call EPA for more information on other sources of exposure to lead. A few general precautions can help prevent contact with lead in and around your home:

Avoid removing paint in the home unless you are sure it contains no lead. Lead paint should only be removed by someone who knows how to protect you from lead paint dust. However, by washing floors, window sills, carpets, upholstery and any objects children put in their mouths, you can get rid of this source of lead.
Make sure children wash their hands after playing outside in the dirt or snow.
Never store food in open cans, Keep it in glass plastic or stainless steel containers. Use glazed pottery only for display if you don’t know whether it contains lead.
If you work around lead, don’t bring it home. Shower and change clothes at work and wash your work clothes separately.

Aren’t There a Lot of Types of Treatment Devices That Would Work?

Answer: There are many devices which are certified for effective lead reduction, but devices that are not designed to remove lead will not work. It is suggested that you follow the recommendations below before purchasing any device:

Avoid being misled by false claims and scare tactics. Be wary of “free” water testing that is provided by the salesperson to determine your water quality; many tests are inaccurate or misleading. Research the reputation and legitimacy of the company or sales representative.
Avoid signing contracts or binding agreements for “onetime offers” or for those that place a lien on your home. Be very careful about giving credit card information over the phone. Check into any offers that involve prizes or sweepstakes winnings.
As suggested above, verify the claims of manufacturers by contacting the NSF International or the Water Quality Association.

What is The Government Doing About the Problem of Lead in Household Water?

Answer: There are two major governmental actions to reduce your exposure to lead:

Under the authority of the Safe Drinking Water Act, EPA set the action level for lead in drinking water at 15 ppb. This means utilities must ensure that water from the customer’s tap does not exceed this level in at least 90 percent of the homes sampled. If water from the tap does exceed this limit, then the utility must take certain steps to correct the problem. Utilities must also notify citizens of all violations of the standard.
In June 1986, President Reagan signed amendments to the Safe Drinking Water Act. These amendments require the use of “lead-free” pipe, solder, and flux in the installation or repair of any public water system, or any plumbing in a residential or non-residential facility connected to a public water system. Under the provisions of these amendments, solders and flux will be considered “lead-free” when they contain not more than 0.2 percent lead. (In the past, solder normally contained about 50 percent lead.) Pipes and fittings will be considered “lead-free” when they contain not more than 8.0 percent lead. These requirements went into effect in June 1986. The law gave state governments until June 1988 to implement and enforce these new limitations. Although the states have banned all use of lead materials in drinking water systems, such bans do not eliminate lead contamination within existing plumbing. Also, in enforcing the ban, some states have continued to find illegally used lead solder in new plumbing installations. While responsible plumbers always observe the ban, this suggests that some plumbing installations or repairs using lead solder may be escaping detection by the limited number of enforcement personnel. (flushed sample will indicate the effectiveness of flushing the tap before using the water.)

How Much Lead is Too Much?

Answer: Federal standards initially limited the amount of lead in water to 50 parts per billion (ppb). In light of new health and exposure data, EPA has set an action level of 15 ppb. If tests show that the level of lead in your household water is in the area of 15 ppb or higher, it is advisable – especially if there are young children in the home – to reduce the lead level in your tap water as much as possible. (EPA estimates that more than 40 million U.S. residents use water that can contain lead in excess of 15 ppb.) Note: One ppb is equal to 1.0 microgram per liter (µg/1) or 0.001 milligram per liter (mg/1).

How Can I Reduce My Exposure?

Answer:If your drinking water is contaminated with lead – or until you find out for sure – there are several things you can do to minimize your exposure. Two of these actions should be taken right away by everyone who has, or suspects, a problem. The advisability of other actions listed here will depend upon your particular circumstances.

The first step is to refrain from consuming water that has been in contact with your home’s plumbing for more than six hours, such as overnight or during your work day. Before using water for drinking or cooking, “flush” the cold water faucet by allowing the water to run until you can feel that the water has become as cold as it will get. You must do this for each drinking water faucet-taking a shower will not flush your kitchen tap. Buildings built prior to about 1930 may have service connectors made of lead. Letting the water run for an extra 15 seconds after it cools should also flush this service connector. Flushing is important because the longer water is exposed to lead pipes or lead solder, the greater the possible lead contamination. (The water that comes out after flushing will not have been in extended contact with lead pipes or solder.) Once you have flushed a tap, you might fill one or more bottles with water and put them in the refrigerator for later use that day. (The water that was flushed – usually one to two gallons – can be used for non-consumption purposes such as washing dishes or clothes; it needn’t be wasted.)Note: Flushing may prove ineffective in high-rise buildings that have large-diameter supply pipes joined with lead solder.
The second step is to never cook with or consume water from the hot-water tap. Hot water dissolves more lead more quickly than cold water. So, do not use water taken from the hot tap for cooking or drinking, and especially not for making baby formula. (If you need hot water, draw water from the cold tap and heat it on the stove.) Use only thoroughly flushed water from the cold tap for any consumption.

Other Actions

If you are served by a public water system contact your supplier and ask whether or not the supply system contains lead piping, and whether your water is corrosive. If either answer is yes, ask what steps the supplier is taking to deal with the problem of lead contamination. Drinking water can be treated at the plant to make it less corrosive. Cities such as Boston and Seattle have successfully done this for an annual cost of less than one dollar per person. (Treatment to reduce corrosion will also save you and the water supplier money by reducing damage to plumbing.) Water mains containing lead pipes can be replaced, as well as those portions of lead service connections that are under the jurisdiction of the supplier.
If you own a well or another water source, you can treat the water to make it less corrosive. Corrosion control devices for individual households include calcite filters and other devices. Calcite filters should be installed in the line between the water source and any lead service connections or lead-soldered pipe. You might ask your health or water department for assistance in finding these commercially, available products.
A number of cartridge type filtering devices are available. These devices use various types of filtering media, including carbon, ion exchange resins, activated alumina and other privately marketed products. Unless they have been certified as described below, the effectiveness of these devices to reduce lead exposure at the tap can vary greatly. It is highly recommended that before purchasing a filter, you verify the claim made by the vendor. If you have bought a filter, you should replace the filter periodically as specified by the manufacturer. Failure to do so may result in exposure to high lead levels.

Definitions

Corrosion: A dissolving and wearing away of metal caused by a chemical reaction (in this case, between water and metal pipes, or between two different metals).

First Draw: The water that immediately comes out when a tap is first opened.

Flush: To open a cold-water tap to clear out all the water which may have been sitting for a long time in the pipes. In new homes, to flush a system means to send large volumes of water gushing through the unused pipes to remove loose particles of solder and flux. (Sometimes this is not done correctly or at all).

Flux: A substance applied during soldering to facilitate the flow of solder. Flux often contains lead and can, itself, be a source of contamination.

Naturally soft water: Any water with low mineral content, lacking the hardness minerals calcium and magnesium.

Public Water System: Any system that supplies water to 25 or more people or has 15 or more service connections (buildings or customers).

Service Connector: The pipe that carries tap water from the public water main to a building. In the past these were often made of lead.

Soft water: Any water that is not “hard.” Water is considered to be hard when it contains a large amount of dissolved minerals, such as salts containing calcium or magnesium. You may be familiar with hard water that interferes with the lathering action of soap.

Solder: A metallic compound used to seal joints in plumbing. Until recently, most solder contained about 50 percent lead.

Source: U.S. Environmental Protection Agency

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