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Toilet Leaks

Do you have a water leak? Leaking toilets cause more water waste than any other fixture in the home.

Even a silent toilet leak (that’s one you normally can’t hear) will waste from 30 to 500 gallons of water per day!

Toilet tank diagram

The ones you can hear will waste much, much more. Such wastage can normally be attributed to a faulty water level adjustment or to a leaky flapper.

Leaky flappers and the “dye test”

Most people will say their toilet does not leak. There is one sure way to find out. Put some food dye in the tank and then leave for 15 minutes. When you return, look into your bowl to see if there is now dye color in the water spot. If there is color, or if you already can hear and or see water running in your bowl, it’s time for a new flapper!

Deformed flapper valves are often the result of toilet tank cleaning products.

If you choose to change the flapper yourself, the best bet is to remove your old flapper and take it with you to purchase a new one. Removing the old flapper is easy but can be messy if it is partially disintegrated. A pair of cheap latex gloves and a small container to hold the old flapper will make your job less of a hardship.

When removing your old flapper, you will first need to turn the water off at the shut-off/supply valve. Next, disconnect the chain or tail from the trip lever arm and then slip the ears of the flapper off of the trunion ears. You will need to select a new flapper that, as near as possible, matches your old one. If your flapper is one of the hard-to-find ones, you may even need to contact the manufacturer of your toilet for a recommendation, so if you only have one toilet, it’s a good idea to keep the old flapper handy until you’ve found a suitable replacement.

While the flapper is out, take your finger and move it over the seating surface of the flush valve seat — that’s the part that the flapper sets on to seal the water. If the surface is rough, this needs to be fixed, too.  If the flush valve is plastic, it will need to be replaced.  This can be a bigger job and will probably require a plumber (see the next paragraph and evaluate whether you want to tackle it yourself).  If  the flush valve is brass, you may be able to fix it yourself.  Get some 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper and lightly go over the entire surface. Repeat the process until the surface is smooth. For toilets with a flat seal type of flapper, simply slip it off the piston or other holding device and replace it with a new one.

After installing the new flapper, run the dye test again to assure you have no leak. If the leak persists (and every now and then it will), you are probably going to have to replace the entire flush valve. To do this, you will need to turn your water off and disconnect the supply line. Then loosen the bolts that hold the tank to the bowl, remove the tank to bowl seal and remove the flange nut on the bottom side of the tank which holds the flush valve in place. Next purchase a replacement valve assembly, but be sure that the new assembly has an overflow tube at least as tall as the old one. If the new one is taller, then note the correct height from the old one, mark that height on the new one and, using a hack saw, cut it to the proper length. Using new seals, reassemble in the reverse order as used in removing the old valve.

“It only runs in the middle of the night”

Many toilets really do run only at night; that’s because people use much less water during these hours and in many municipal water systems, the water pressure rises considerably during this time. It is not uncommon for system water pressure to rise by 15 to 20 pounds per square inch (psi), and by as much as 30 psi in some situations. This rise in pressure could cause “water creep” inside your gravity ­fed tank by 1/2 inch or more. That is why the manufacturers of toilets normally suggest that the water level to be set at approximately one inch below the top of the overflow tube.

Water Level in the tank

If you only notice your toilet running in the middle of the night, there is a good chance that the water level in your tank is set too high. Remove your tank lid and observe the water level. If you are doing this in the middle of the night (which, by the way, would be the ideal time to check this out!), and the water is running over the top of the overflow tube, adjust it down using the adjusting screw on the top of the fill valve mechanism (turn clockwise) or the “V” shaped clip on the stiff wire link (slide it down) on the “sliding float” so it’s not overflowing. Then, the following day, make another adjustment down to the one-inch level.

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A Guide to Water Heater Types

You have a lot to consider when selecting a new water heater for your home.

You should choose a water heating system that will not only provide enough hot water but also that will do so energy efficiently, saving you money. This includes considering the different types of water heaters available and determining the right size and fuel source for your home.

Types of Water Heaters

It’s a good idea to know the different types of water heaters available before you purchase one:

Selection Criteria

When selecting the best type and model of water heater for your home, consider the following:

  • Fuel type, availability and cost. The fuel type or energy source you use for water heating will not only affect the water heater’s annual operation costs but also its size and energy efficiency. See below for more on selecting fuel types.
  • Size. To provide your household with enough hot water and to maximize efficiency, you need a properly sized water heater. Visit the pages on different types of water heaters (linked above) for more on sizing.
  • Energy efficiency. To maximize your energy and cost savings, you want to know how energy efficient a water heater is before you purchase it. Visit the pages on different types of water heaters (linked above) for more on estimating energy efficiency.
  • Costs. Before you purchase a water heater, it’s also a good idea to estimate its annual operating costs and compare those costs with other less or more energy-efficient models. Visit the pages on different types of water heaters (linked above) for more on estimating costs.

Also be sure to do what you can to reduce your hot water use. You may also want to explore other strategies such as drain-water heat recovery to save money on your water heating bill.

Fuel Types, Availability, & Costs for Water Heating

When selecting a new water heater, it’s important to consider what fuel type or energy source you will use, including its availability and cost. The fuel used by a water heating system will not only affect annual operation costs but also the water heater’s size and energy efficiency.

Exploring Water Heater Options by Fuel Type

Fuel type and its availability in your area may narrow your water heater choices. The following is a list of water heater options by fuel or energy source:

  • Electricity: Widely available in the United States to fuel conventional storage, tankless or demand-type, and heat pump water heaters. It also can be used with combination water and space heating systems, which include tankless coil and indirect water heaters.
  • Fuel oil: Available in some areas of the United States to fuel conventional storage water heaters, and indirect combination water and space heating systems.
  • Geothermal energy: Available throughout the United States to those who will have or already have a geothermal heat pump system installed in their homes for space heating and cooling.
  • Natural gas: Available in many areas of the United States to fuel conventional storage and demand (tankless or instantaneous) water heaters, as well as combination water and space heating systems, which include tankless coil and indirect water heaters.
  • Propane: Available in many areas of the United States to fuel conventional storage and demand (tankless or instantaneous) water heaters, as well as indirect combination water and space heating systems.
  • Solar energy: Available throughout the United States — most abundantly in the Southwest — for solar water heaters.

Comparing Fuel Costs and Water Heater Types

If you have more than one fuel type available in your area, it’s a good idea to compare fuel costs, especially if you’re building a new home. Even if you’re replacing a water heater, you may find that you’ll save more money in the long run if you use a different fuel or energy source. Contact your utility for current fuel costs or rates.

The type of water heater you choose will also affect your water heating costs. One type of water heater may use a fuel type more efficiently than another type of water heater. For example, an electric heat pump water heater typically is more energy efficient than an electric conventional storage water heater. Also, an electric heat pump water heater might have lower energy costs because of its higher efficiency than a gas-fired conventional storage water heater, even though local natural gas costs might be lower than the electricity rates.

Conventional Storage Water Heaters

Conventional storage water heaters remain the most popular type of water heating system for the home. Here you’ll find basic information about how storage water heaters work; what criteria to use when selecting the right model; and some installation, maintenance, and safety tips.

How They Work

A single-family storage water heater offers a ready reservoir — from 20 to 80 gallons — of hot water. It operates by releasing hot water from the top of the tank when you turn on the hot water tap. To replace that hot water, cold water enters the bottom of the tank, ensuring that the tank is always full.

Conventional storage water heater fuel sources include natural gas, propane, fuel oil, and electricity. Learn more about fuel types available when selecting a new water heater.

Since water is constantly heated in the tank, energy can be wasted even when a hot water tap isn’t running. This is called standby heat loss. Only tankless water heaters — such as demand-type water heaters and tankless coil water heaters — avoid standby heat losses. Some storage water heater models have heavily insulated tank, which significantly reduce standby heat losses and lower annual operating costs. Look for models with tanks that have a thermal resistance (R-Value) of R-12 to R-25.

Gas and oil water heaters also have venting-related energy losses. Two types of water heaters — a fan-assisted gas water heater and an atmospheric sealed-combustion water heater — reduce these losses. Visit the Energy Basics site to learn more about how conventional storage water heaters work.

You might also want to consider some less conventional storage water heaters — heat pump water heaters and solar water heaters. These water heaters are usually more expensive but they typically have lower annual operating costs.

Selecting a Storage Water Heater

The lowest-priced storage water heater may be the most expensive to operate and maintain over its lifetime. While an oversized unit may be alluring, it carries a higher purchase price and increased energy costs due to higher standby energy losses.

Before buying a new storage water heater, consider the following:

  • Size and first hour rating
  • Fuel type and availability
  • Energy efficiency and costs.

Installation & Maintenance

Proper installation and maintenance of your water heater can optimize its energy efficiency.

Proper installation depends on many factors. These factors include fuel type, climate, local building code requirements, and safety issues, especially concerning the combustion of gas- and oil-fired water heaters. Therefore, it’s best to have a qualified plumbing and heating contractor install your storage water heater. Be sure to do the following when selecting a contractor:

  • Request cost estimates in writing
  • Ask for references
  • Check the company with your local Better Business Bureau
  • See if the company will obtain a local permit if necessary and understands local building codes, etc.

If you’re determined to install it yourself, first consult the water heater’s manufacturer. Manufacturers usually have the necessary installation and instruction manuals. Also, contact your city or town for information about obtaining a permit, if necessary, and about local water heater building codes.

Periodic water heater maintenance can significantly extend your water heater’s life and minimize loss of efficiency. Read your owner’s manual for specific maintenance recommendations.

Routine maintenance for storage water heaters, depending on what type/model you have, may include:

  • Flushing a quart of water from the storage tank every three months
  • Checking the temperature and pressure valve every six months
  • Inspecting the anode rod every three to four years.

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Demand (Tankless or Instantaneous) Water Heaters

Tankless water heaters, also known as demand-type or instantaneous water heaters, provide hot water only as it is needed. They don’t produce the standby energy losses associated with storage water heaters, which can save you money. Here you’ll find basic information about how they work, whether a tankless water heater might be right for your home, and what criteria to use when selecting the right model.

How They Work

Tankless water heaters heat water directly without the use of a storage tank. When a hot water tap is turned on, cold water travels through a pipe into the unit. Either a gas burner or an electric element heats the water. As a result, tankless water heaters deliver a constant supply of hot water. You don’t need to wait for a storage tank to fill up with enough hot water. However, a tankless water heater’s output limits the flow rate.

Typically, tankless water heaters provide hot water at a rate of 2–5 gallons (7.6–15.2 liters) per minute. Gas-fired tankless water heaters produce higher flow rates than electric ones. Sometimes, however, even the largest, gas-fired model cannot supply enough hot water for simultaneous, multiple uses in large households. For example, taking a shower and running the dishwasher at the same time can stretch a tankless water heater to its limit. To overcome this problem, you can install two or more tankless water heaters, connected in parallel for simultaneous demands of hot water. You can also install separate tankless water heaters for appliances — such as a clothes washer or dishwater — that use a lot of hot water in your home.

Other applications for demand water heaters include the following:

  • Remote bathrooms or hot tubs
  • Booster for appliances, such as dishwashers or clothes washers
  • Booster for a solar water heating system.

Advantages & Disadvantages

For homes that use 41 gallons or less of hot water daily, demand water heaters can be 24%–34% more energy efficient than conventional storage tank water heaters. They can be 8%–14% more energy efficient for homes that use a lot of hot water — around 86 gallons per day. You can achieve even greater energy savings of 27%–50% if you install a demand water heater at each hot water outlet. ENERGY STAR® estimates that a typical family can save $100 or more per year with an ENERGY STAR qualified tankless water heater.

The initial cost of a tankless water heater is greater than that of a conventional storage water heater, but tankless water heaters will typically last longer and have lower operating and energy costs, which could offset its higher purchase price. Most tankless water heaters have a life expectancy of more than 20 years. They also have easily replaceable parts that extend their life by many more years. In contrast, storage water heaters last 10–15 years.

Tankless water heaters can avoid the standby heat losses associated with storage water heaters. However, although gas-fired tankless water heaters tend to have higher flow rates than electric ones, they can waste energy if they have a constantly burning pilot light. This can sometimes offset the elimination of standby energy losses when compared to a storage water heater. In a gas-fired storage water heater, the pilot light heats the water in the tank so the energy isn’t wasted.

The cost of operating a pilot light in a tankless water heater varies from model to model. Ask the manufacturer how much gas the pilot light uses for the model you’re considering. If you purchase a model that uses a standing pilot light, you can always turn it off when it’s not in use to save energy. Also consider models that have an intermittent ignition device (IID) instead of a standing pilot light. This device resembles the spark ignition device on some gas kitchen ranges and ovens.

Selecting a Demand Water Heater

Before buying a demand water heater, you also need to consider the following:

  • Size
  • Fuel type and availability
  • Energy efficiency (energy factor)
  • Costs

Installation & Maintenance

Proper installation and maintenance of your demand water heater can optimize its energy efficiency.

Proper installation depends on many factors. These factors include fuel type, climate, local building code requirements, and safety issues, especially concerning the combustion of gas-fired water heaters. Therefore, it’s best to have a qualified plumbing and heating contractor install your demand water heater. Do the following when selecting a contractor:

  • Request cost estimates in writing
  • Ask for references
  • Check the company with your local Better Business Bureau
  • See if the company will obtain a local permit if necessary and understands local building codes.

If you’re determined to install your water heater yourself, first consult the manufacturer. Manufacturers usually have the necessary installation and instruction manuals. Also, contact your city or town for information about obtaining a permit, if necessary, and about local water heater installation codes.

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Solar Water Heaters

Solar water heaters—also called solar domestic hot water systems—can be a cost-effective way to generate hot water for your home. They can be used in any climate, and the fuel they use—sunshine—is free.

How They Work

Solar water heating systems include storage tanks and solar collectors. There are two types of solar water heating systems: active, which have circulating pumps and controls, and passive, which don’t.

Most solar water heaters require a well-insulated storage tank. Solar storage tanks have an additional outlet and inlet connected to and from the collector. In two-tank systems, the solar water heater preheats water before it enters the conventional water heater. In one-tank systems, the back-up heater is combined with the solar storage in one tank.

Three types of solar collectors are used for residential applications:

  • Flat-plate collector: Glazed flat-plate collectors are insulated, weatherproofed boxes that contain a dark absorber plate under one or more glass or plastic (polymer) covers. Unglazed flat-plate collectors—typically used for solar pool heating—have a dark absorber plate, made of metal or polymer, without a cover or enclosure.
  • Integral collector-storage systems: Also known as ICS or batch systems, they feature one or more black tanks or tubes in an insulated, glazed box. Cold water first passes through the solar collector, which preheats the water. The water then continues on to the conventional backup water heater, providing a reliable source of hot water. They should be installed only in mild-freeze climates because the outdoor pipes could freeze in severe, cold weather.
  • Evacuated-tube solar collectors: They feature parallel rows of transparent glass tubes. Each tube contains a glass outer tube and metal absorber tube attached to a fin. The fin’s coating absorbs solar energy but inhibits radiative heat loss. These collectors are used more frequently for U.S. commercial applications.

There are two types of active solar water heating systems:

Active Solar Water Heaters

  • Direct circulation systems: Pumps circulate household water through the collectors and into the home. They work well in climates where it rarely freezes.
  • Indirect circulation systems: Pumps circulate a non-freezing, heat-transfer fluid through the collectors and a heat exchanger. This heats the water that then flows into the home. They are popular in climates prone to freezing temperatures.

Passive solar water heating systems are typically less expensive than active systems, but they’re usually not as efficient. However, passive systems can be more reliable and may last longer.

There are two basic types of passive systems:

Passive Solar Water Heaters

  • Integral collector-storage passive systems: These work best in areas where temperatures rarely fall below freezing. They also work well in households with significant daytime and evening hot-water needs.
  • Thermosyphon systems: Water flows through the system when warm water rises as cooler water sinks. The collector must be installed below the storage tank so that warm water will rise into the tank. These systems are reliable, but contractors must pay careful attention to the roof design because of the heavy storage tank. They are usually more expensive than integral collector-storage passive systems.

Solar water heating systems almost always require a backup system for cloudy days and times of increased demand. Conventional storage water heaters usually provide backup and may already be part of the solar system package. A backup system may also be part of the solar collector, such as rooftop tanks with thermosyphon systems. Since an integral-collector storage system already stores hot water in addition to collecting solar heat, it may be packaged with a demand (tankless or instantaneous) water heater for backup.

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Heat Pump Water Heaters

Most homeowners who have heat pumps use them to heat and cool their homes. But a heat pump also can be used to heat water — either as stand-alone water heating system, or as combination water heating and space conditioning system.

How They Work

Heat pump water heaters use electricity to move heat from one place to another instead of generating heat directly. Therefore, they can be two to three times more energy efficient than conventional electric resistance water heaters. To move the heat, heat pumps work like a refrigerator in reverse.

While a refrigerator pulls heat from inside a box and dumps it into the surrounding room, a stand-alone air-source heat pump water heater pulls heat from the surrounding air and dumps it — at a higher temperature — into a tank to heat water. You can purchase a stand-alone heat pump water heating system as an integrated unit with a built-in water storage tank and back-up resistance heating elements. You can also retrofit a heat pump to work with an existing conventional storage water heater.

Heat pump water heaters require installation in locations that remain in the 40º–90ºF (4.4º–32.2ºC) range year-round and provide at least 1,000 cubic feet (28.3 cubic meters) of air space around the water heater. Cool exhaust air can be exhausted to the room or outdoors. Install them in a space with excess heat, such as a furnace room. Heat pump water heaters will not operate efficiently in a cold space. They tend to cool the spaces they are in. You can also install an air-source heat pump system that combines heating, cooling, and water heating. These combination systems pull their heat indoors from the outdoor air in the winter and from the indoor air in the summer. Because they remove heat from the air, any type of air-source heat pump system works more efficiently in a warm climate.

Homeowners primarily install geothermal heat pumps — which draw heat from the ground during the winter and from the indoor air during the summer — for heating and cooling their homes. For water heating, you can add a desuperheater to a geothermal heat pump system. A desuperheater is a small, auxiliary heat exchanger that uses superheated gases from the heat pump’s compressor to heat water. This hot water then circulates through a pipe to the home’s storage water heater tank.

Desuperheaters are also available for tankless or demand-type water heaters. In the summer, the desuperheater uses the excess heat that would otherwise be expelled to the ground. Therefore, when the geothermal heat pump runs frequently during the summer, it can heat all of your water.

During the fall, winter, and spring — when the desuperheater isn’t producing as much excess heat — you’ll need to rely more on your storage or demand water heater to heat the water. Some manufacturers also offer triple-function geothermal heat pump systems, which provide heating, cooling, and hot water. They use a separate heat exchanger to meet all of a household’s hot water needs.

Selecting a Heat Pump Water Heater

Heat pump water heater systems typically have higher initial costs than conventional storage water heaters. However, they have lower operating costs, which can offset their higher purchase and installation prices.

Before buying a heat pump water heating system, you also need to consider the following:

  • Size and first hour rating
  • Fuel type and availability
  • Energy efficiency (energy factor)
  • Overall costs

If you’re considering installing an integrated water heating, space heating, and cooling heat pump system in your home, also see our information about air-source heat pumps and geothermal heat pumps.

Installation & Maintenance

Proper installation and maintenance of your heat pump water heating system can optimize its energy efficiency.

Proper installation depends on many factors. These factors include fuel type, climate, local building code requirements, and safety issues. Therefore, it’s best to have a qualified plumbing and heating contractor (or geothermal heat pump system installer/designer) install your heat pump.

Do the following when selecting a qualified professional:

  • Request cost estimates in writing
  • Ask for references
  • Check the company with your local Better Business Bureau
  • See if the company will obtain a local permit if necessary and understands local building codes.

Periodic water heater maintenance can significantly extend your water heater’s life and minimize loss of efficiency. Read your owner’s manual for specific maintenance recommendations.

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Tankless Coil and Indirect Water Heaters

Tankless coil and indirect water heaters use a home’s space heating system to heat water. They’re part of what’s called integrated or combination water and space heating systems.

Tankless Coil Water Heaters

How They Work

A tankless coil water heater uses a heating coil or heat exchanger installed in a main furnace or boiler.

Whenever a hot water faucet is turned on, the water flows through the heat exchanger. These water heaters provide hot water on demand without a tank, like a demand water heater, but because they rely on the furnace or boiler to heat the water directly, tankless coil water heaters work most efficiently during cold months when the heating system is used regularly. That’s why they can be an inefficient choice for many homes, especially for those in warmer climates.

Indirect water heaters offer a more efficient choice for most homes, even though they require a storage tank. An indirect water heater uses the main furnace or boiler to heat a fluid that’s circulated through a heat exchanger in the storage tank. The energy stored by the water tank allows the furnace to turn off and on less often, which saves energy. Therefore, an indirect water heater is used with a high-efficiency boiler and well-insulated tank can be the least expensive means of providing hot water.

Indirect systems can be fired by gas, oil, propane, electric, solar energy, or a combination of any of these. Tankless systems are typically electric or gas-fired. Also, these integrated or combination water heating systems not only can work with forced air systems but also with hydronic or radiant floor heating systems.

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U.S. Department of Energy – Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy

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What’s in My Water?

Milky, Cloudy or White Water

Cloudy water is usually caused by tiny air bubbles in the water similar to gas bubbles in carbonated drinks. This usually happens during winter months when air gets mixed into the cold water and then the water is warmed as it sits in household plumbing or hot water heaters. Cold water can hold more air than warm water. When the warmed water is released from a faucet into a glass, the air bubbles rise to the top and the water clears. There is no health risk associated with air in water.

Air can also occur in water after routine repairs to waterlines. If the air does not clear up or if it seems excessive, contact your Water Resources Department.

Chlorine Taste and Odor

We are required by law to provide disinfectant (chlorine) residuals to the taps of our customers to protect the water from harmful bacteria. This may mean that you encounter chlorine-type tastes and odors from time to time. If you find these objectionable, fill a container with water and store it in the refrigerator for drinking. Leave the cap slightly loose and most of the chlorine smell should dissipate.

You can also use a hand-held pitcher with an activated carbon filter to remove chlorine, or install a point-of-use water treatment device on a faucet for your cooking and drinking water. Be certain that the device has been tested by an independent organization for aesthetic (non-health) use. ANSI/NSF Standard 42 establishes minimum requirements for materials, design and construction, and performance of drinking water devices that reduce specific aesthetic-related contaminants in public or private water supplies. These products usually contain activated carbon that can remove many chemicals that affect taste and odor, including chlorine.

Point of use devices contain filter cartridges that must be changed out periodically. Be sure to follow manufacturer’s recommendations to replace the cartridges. If you plan to store water from these devices, treat the water as a food product, and use clean, airtight containers and refrigerate, as the water is no longer protected from bacteriological contamination.

Discolored Water

Yellow, rusty, or brownish colored water is usually due to flow changes in the system that stir up iron and manganese-containing sediments. There are no health-related limits for iron or manganese in drinking water. These minerals, however, can result in staining of white laundry. Items stained by washing in discolored water should not be bleached (this will set the color into the fabric). They should be washed again in clear water. Using a laundry cleaner specifically manufactured for iron removal may be helpful as well. These products are available at most laundry product retailers.

Discolored water can also be the result of in-house plumbing problems, such as the attachment of dissimilar metals like copper and galvanized pipes, or to cracked glass liners in hot water tanks. In general, these in-house discolored water problems will be characterized by a spurt of discolored water when the water is first turned on or will be limited to the hot water.

Rusty water can also occur in the system if there is a change or increase in water flow caused by water main breaks, valve operation, or fire hydrant activation. These activities dislodge small particles of rust and stir up sediments in pipes. It is a temporary condition and should clear up in a couple of hours. The Water Resources Department should be aware of what is happening at any particular time and how long the condition should last. If possible, avoid dish washing or laundry until the condition clears up.

If you experience ongoing discolored water for which you can find no in-house remedy, call your Water Resources Department.

Musty, Moldy, or Earthy Taste or Odor in the Water

Earthy/musty tastes and odors that occur in drinking water can be related to several factors. These taste and odor causing substances can be very difficult to detect at the treatment facility. There are two common causes of a musty, moldy, or earthy taste or odor in the water: bacteria growing in your drain, or certain types of organisms growing in the City’s water supply.

By far, the most common cause of this type of problem is the drain. Over time organic matter (such as hair, soap, and food waste) can accumulate on the walls of the drain. Bacteria can grow on these organic deposits. As the bacteria grow and multiply, they produce gases that can smell musty or moldy. These gases accumulate in the drain until the water is turned on. As the water runs down the drain, the gases are expelled into the air around the sink. It is natural to assume the bad odor is coming from the water because the smell is noticeable only when the water is on. However there is nothing wrong with the water, but the drain may need to be disinfected.

The other cause of this type of taste or odor in the water is much less common and results from certain types of algae, fungi, and bacteria growing in the water supply reservoirs. As these organisms grow and multiply, they excrete small amounts of harmless chemicals into the water that cause a musty, moldy, or earthy taste and odor. The two most common chemicals are geosmin and methylisoborneal (MIB). Although these chemicals are harmless, the human senses of taste and smell are extremely sensitive to them and can detect them in the water at concentrations as low as 5 parts per trillion (nanograms per liter).

Similar “stale” tastes and odors may also occur in distribution lines related to low flow situations. The remedy in this case usually involves flushing out of the affected lines by City crews. Also, anytime plumbing has been unused for a long time, the water can develop an unpleasant taste, so faucets should be run a short time to bring in fresh water. There are no adverse health effects associated with earthy/musty taste and odor substances.

Fluoride

Most Water Resources departments fluoridate the water in all of its treatment facilities. Fluoride is provided at a level of about 1 milligram per liter which provides an optimal level of fluoride for protection against tooth decay.

Pink or Black Residues on Surfaces in Contact with Water

Such residues may occur in showers, toilet bowls or tanks, pet bowls, bath tub toys, coffee reservoirs, cold air humidifiers—on any surface that stays moist and is not cleaned thoroughly and regularly. These are generally the result of biological growth—molds, fungus, bacteria or algae that have originated from the air or the surfaces themselves. These microbes grow well in moist areas and the water that remains in these areas has typically lost its chlorine (disinfectant) through natural reaction or volatilization. The simple remedy is to keep such areas dry and to clean them regularly with a disinfectant solution.

White or Black Particles

These can occur as a result of degradation of hot water tank dip tubes (white) or degradation of faucet gaskets, supply tubing or pipe coatings (black). If the particles are occurring due to these causes, some basic trouble-shooting may help isolate the problem: determine whether the problem occurs only in hot water piping or certain faucets.

My Water is Cloudy and/or Tastes Bad.

Who should I contact?

Contact your Water Resources Department to report concerns about the taste, smell, or appearance of your water. Hydrant flushing may be required to clear lines of cloudy water due to construction or maintenance of water mains.

Is My Water Safe?

Do I need to boil my water or seek an alternate source due to specialized medical needs?

Drinking water as provided by public water suppliers is clarified and disinfected. It is not sterile, however. Those with severely compromised immune systems—advanced AIDS, organ transplant patients, cancer patients on chemotherapy, or those with other conditions that greatly impair the natural immune response may wish to take special precautions regarding the water they consume, such as boiling the water prior to use. To completely eliminate the possibility of any microbial exposure from water are advised, bring water to a full rolling boil for one minute, allow it to cool, and store it in clean, refrigerated conditions. Persons with these concerns are encouraged to seek advice from their physicians.

In the event of a major interruption in water service, such as a water main break, customers may be advised to boil their water. This can happen even in properly treated public water supplies like Greensboro’s. When water service is interrupted and mains are depressurized, there is an increased risk that substances might be drawn into mains through seepage or cross-connections. As a result, in larger outages, systems are required to issue “boil water advisories” until bacteriological sampling shows that the water has not been contaminated. Such sampling usually takes 24 to 48 hours to be completed once water service is restored. The Water Resources Department’s monitoring of the water in such depressurization instances has consistently shown that the water has not been contaminated.

My Family Has Been Sick

How Can I Be Sure My Water is Not the Cause?

With increased public awareness on issues related to health and infectious diseases, the Water Resources Department is occasionally asked whether City water could be the cause of illness. This is highly unlikely, since the City provides water that is treated to high quality standards, uses utmost care in maintaining its distribution system, and adds chlorine at booster stations where needed. In response to such inquiries, however, most Water Resources Department schedules on-site water testing for bacteria and chlorine (disinfectant) residuals, as well as other basic water quality parameters if the customer so desires.

Source: © City of Greensboro

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Backflow Prevention FAQ’s

Q. What is backflow?

A. The water distribution system is designed to keep the water flowing from the distribution system to you the customer. However, when hydraulic conditions within the system deviate from the “normal” conditions, water flow can be reversed. When this backflow happens, contaminated water can enter the distribution system.

Q. What causes backflow?

A. Backflow is possible in two situations, backsiphonage and backpressure.

Q. What is backsiphonage?

A. When there is a sudden reduction in the water pressure in the distribution system, such as during firefighting or when a water main breaks, water flow can be reversed. This can create a suction effect, drawing the non potable substance into the potable water system.

Q. What is backpressure?

A. Backpressure is created when pressure in a non-potable system, such as in a recirculating system containing soap, acid, or antifreeze, exceeds that in the potable system that provides make up water to the system. This can force the potable water to reverse its direction of flow through the cross connection. Non-potable substances can then enter the potable water system.

Q. How can backflow be prevented?

A. Four methods of backflow prevention are commonly recognized:

  • Air Gap
  • Double Check Valve Assembly
  • Reduced Pressure Principal Assembly
  • Pressure Vacuum Breaker Assembly

Your local water/sewer authority will determine which type of protection is required based on the degree of hazard that the property represents to the potable water supply.

Q. What is a backflow assembly?

A. A backflow preventer is an approved, testable assembly which uses valves, in different configurations, to prevent polluted or contaminated water from reversing direction and flowing backward.

Q. How is an assembly approved?

A. An approved backflow prevention assembly has gone through an approval process consisting of laboratory/tests and a twelve month field test.

Q. Who is required to have a backflow prevention assembly?

A. Federal and State law require that water suppliers protect their water systems from contamination. State regulations may exempt single family residences used solely for residential purposes from assembly requirements. However, residences used for other purposes, as well as commercial and industrial customers, may be required to install and maintain backflow prevention assemblies. When a determination is made by health official that the potable water system may be subject to contamination through backflow, a backflow prevention assembly will be required. These decisions are made on a case by case basis.

Q. My property is served with reclaimed water. Do I need backflow protection?

A. Yes. Customers receiving reclaimed water must install a Reduced Pressure Assembly (RPA) backflow preventer on all potable water connections, including fire services.

Q. Who can install a backflow prevention assembly?

A. The installation of the backflow prevention assembly should only be done by a licensed professional.

Q. Where should a backflow prevention assembly be located?

A. Generally, the backflow prevention assembly must be located as close as possible to the water service connection, but must remain on private property. A licensed professional can provide information on variances.

Q. Who is responsible for the testing and maintenance of the backflow assembly?

A. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to ensure that the assembly is in satisfactory operating condition at all times. Annual testing is required to stay in compliance. The customer must contact a recognized or licensed Backflow Assembly Tester to perform the test. If any repair work or maintenance is performed on the assembly, a recognized Tester must retest the assembly immediately and submit the test results to your local water/sewer authority.

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Do Cold Showers Get You Steamed?

Just when your hair is all lathered the hot water runs out —again! Once again, you’re rinsing in water cold enough to make a polar bear shudder.

Cold Showers

Being last in line for the shower is a chilling experience, especially if you have an overworked, undersized tank type water heater. Maybe you could just get up earlier in the morning, before the hot water runs out. How does 4 a.m sound?

Or, you cold call Your 1 Plumber, LLC and ask about our Hot Shower Cold Cash offer. Let us install an energy efficient Tankless Water Heater with endless supply of hot water so you never ever run out of hot water again.

  • Always hot
  • 10 year heat exchanger warranty!
  • Saves energy
  • Easy terms with approved credit

HOT SHOWER, COLD CASH
Just mention “Cold Cash” to SAVE $100 OFF our Endless Hot Water System. Don’t wait any longer!

Call now to schedule an appointment.
(note: we will not be held responsible if you stay in the shower so long that you come out looking like a prune!)

© 2005 Service Roundtable

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10 Ways to Improve Your Water Quality

There are many streams and rivers that flow through our backyards and drain into ponds, lakes, bays, and ultimately the ocean.

Pollutants such as animal feces, fertilizer, oil, hazardous waste, road sand and grease on the land can be washed into our waters, but we can reduce this type of pollution. Here is a list of 10 things you can do to help clean our local waterways.

  1. Learn about local waters.
    Everyone lives in a watershed, which is the drainage area to a local waterbody (think of washing everything in a sink down the drain and the drain is your local river or stream). Figure out what waters are closest to you and where they flow. Learn about local animal life and plants that live in and around these waters.
  2. Don’t feed ducks!
    Although you may enjoy feeding geese, ducks, gulls and other waterfowl, remember that they too contribute to the same type of pollution that limits swimming and shellfishing. One bird dropping can contaminate 10,000 gallons of water. Bread and other human food are bad for bird’s digestive tracts too. Feeding waterfowl can also attract larger bird populations and may cause some birds to stop migrating.
  3. Pick up after your pets.
    Dog waste and feces from other warm-blooded animals pollute local waterways and are larger polluters than you may think. This type of pollution contributes to the closing of beaches and shellfish beds all over the state. Pick up your pet’s waste and deposit it in a trash can.
  4. Inspect septic systems.
    Approximately 1/3 of the state uses some form of septic system for sewage disposal. Failing septic systems or cesspools are a major source of pollution to ground water and local reservoirs. What you flush directly affects the water we drink and the water where we fish, swim, and boat. If you have a septic system, inspect it regularly, pump and repair it as needed. If you have a cesspool, replace it.
  5. Avoid over-fertilizing your lawn.
    During rainstorms, nutrients from lawn fertilizer can be washed off lawns and paved areas into local waters. This type of pollution contributes to eutrophication, a process that causes nuisance algal blooms and reduction of habitat and oxygen levels for many aquatic organisms. This leads to a decline in fish and shellfish populations, and reduces the diversity of fish in our waters. Get your soil tested to see if it really needs more fertilizer and if so, use as little as necessary. Read the label on fertilizer packages, apply according to directions, and clean-up any fertilizer left on paved areas. Also, reduce your lawn area by planting native, more drought-tolerant plants that are better adapted for the environment, and can act as buffers to prevent runoff from you lawn.
  6. Minimize the use of hazardous products and recycle as much as possible.
    Cleaning and other household products contain many hazardous chemicals. Try to use the least harmful products available. Learn to dispose of household hazardous chemicals properly. Recycling helps to conserve natural resources and reduces the amount of refuse sent to landfills. Start a compost bin and buy products made with or packaged in recycled material to reduce waste further.
  7. Get involved. Volunteer.
    Help with clean-up efforts or be a volunteer water monitor. Participate in local activities that benefit the environment. Find out if there is a watershed council near you. If your watershed does not have an association, start one! Other statewide non-profit organizations also need volunteers. Every little bit you do counts! Speak out. Attend public meetings that pertain to water quality. Your participation makes the statement that your community is concerned about local waterways. Public involvement is imperative if your local and state public servants are to help you make large-scale improvements in your watershed. If you see a problem in your area or want something done, say something! If you don’t have time to attend meetings, call or contact a city or town official, or a state representative.
  8. Conserve water.
    If you are connected to a public sewer, conserving water will help reduce the discharge from your wastewater treatment facility into local waters. Water conservation helps prevent septic system failures.
  9. Pump it, don’t dump it!
    If you own a sailboat or a motorboat have your holding tank emptied at a local pumpout station. Also, if you have an old engine on your motor boat, look into updating it to a new 2-cycle or 4-cycle engine. They are cleaner for the environment and more efficient, which means they are lighter on your wallet!
  10. Get out!
    Get out on the water. Swim, sail, surf, kayak, fish, windsurf, coat, shellfish, go birding or walk along the shore. Explore the waters near your home or visit other parts of the state. Make it a point to enjoy the benefits of living near the water, and while you’re out there keep an eye out for problems or pollution sources.

Suggestions from the Rhode Island Department of Environmental Management (DEM)

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How to Replace a Toilet

A plumbing company helping you replace your own toilet? What will we think of next?!

The “what will we think of next” part is kind of the point of this new feature of our company web site.

You see, it’s one thing to remind you that we’re always looking out for your best interests. Even better, we’re always looking for ways to demonstrate to put some real whallop behind that promise.

So from now, we’ll be featuring one do-it-yourself project per month on our web site. Many of them, of course, will have to do with plumbing…but we won’t stop there. Plus, each time we post new diy project instructions, the previous article will be archived.

So where do we begin? With the most popular and requested plumbing diy project of them all:

How to Replace Your Own Toilet!

Changing your toilet is an easy project that should take half a day or less.  The most common toilet has a separate tank that mounts on top of the bowl. These instructions apply most specifically to this type of toilet. If you have an integral tank/bowl toilet, a flush valve or a wall-mounted toilet, your procedure will vary somewhat.

Preparation for the Replacement

  • Before purchasing your new toilet, measure the distance from the rearmost bowl hold-down bolts to the finished wall behind the toilet. This is called the toilet’s rough-in. Most toilets are designed with a 12″ rough-in. Ask your retailer for help if your rough-in varies.

Check the toilet’s rough-in to be sure it’s the standard 12 inches from the rear hold-down bolts to the finished wall behind the toilet.

  • The first step is to turn off the toilet’s water supply. Then flush the toilet to empty its tank, holding the trip-lever down to let all the water run out. Sop out any remaining water in the tank and bowl with a sponge–make sure they’re both empty.

Removing the Old Toilet

  • Use a large, adjustable open-end wrench to unthread the coupling nut between the toilet tank and its water supply. You may need to hold the fill valve with pliers from inside the tank to keep it from turning.
  • Now you’re ready to remove the original tank. Most are held to the bowl by two long bolts. The nuts are located beneath the flange at the rear of the toilet bowl. Figure shows how to work with these.
  • With the bolts out, you can lift the tank clear of the bowl.
  • If your toilet tank mounts to the wall and feeds the bowl with a large, sweeping elbow, first remove the elbow. Use a trap wrench or water pump pliers for the slip jam nuts. Or, you can simply saw the elbow with a hacksaw.
  • Now you can remove the tank from the wall. As you unscrew the tank from the wall, support it so it doesn’t fall.
  • Next, take out the toilet bowl. Typically, the bowl is fastened to the floor with two hold-down bolts and nuts beneath trim caps. Some toilet bowls have four hold-downs.
  • Pry off each trim cap to expose the bolts and nuts.

You can pry off bowl-matching trim caps by lifting under one end with a putty knife or screwdriver.

  • Unscrew the nuts. If you have trouble, you can saw them off. A mini-hacksaw works best, or you can use a regular hacksaw. To protect the bowl’s finish from the saw teeth, use masking tape.
  • Now loosen the bowl/seat unit by rocking it to break its seal with the floor and toilet flange. Once loosened, you can lift the bowl and carry it out of the house. Be sure to hold the bowl level to avoid spilling any trap-sealing water. You may need help to lift the tank and bowl together. Lift it properly with your back straight and put the weight on your legs.
  • Stuff rags in the toilet flange opening to keep sewer gases out of the house and debris out of the soil pipe while you work.

Keep sewer gases out of the house and debris out of the piping by stuffing a rag into the toilet’s floor flange opening.

Preparing to Install the New Toilet

  • To get ready for the new toilet, first do a complete cleanup. Remove any old putty and wax from the floor and toilet flange. You can use a screwdriver or putty knife. Clean the floor thoroughly in case the new toilet’s footprint is different. Remove the old hold-down bolts–don’t reuse them. You may want to clean and paint the wall behind the toilet. If you’re going to replace the bathroom floor covering, this is an excellent opportunity.
  • At this point, install any new water supply plumbing you plan to add. A new fixture supply valve and flexible riser tube is easy to install and offers shutoff convenience later. The valve attaches to a short length of water supply pipe coming from the wall or floor. Have the riser tube handy but out of the way of the new tank.

Modern supply valves are compatible with flexible riser tubes for supplying the toilet’s flush water.

  • Also, inspect the toilet flange for sound condition. It should stick up about 1/2″ from the finished bathroom floor.
  • Temporarily set the toilet in position on the floor over the flange to check for levelness. Check it front-to-back and side-to-side. If necessary, shim under the bowl with non-rusting metal washers.
  • Install a new pair of toilet hold-down bolts. If there are holes or slots for the bolts in the toilet flange, they should be inserted in the openings. In a cast iron piping system, the hold-downs screw directly into the wood floor. Whatever the situation, your retailer should have them. Don’t try to use ordinary bolts. Install the bolts so they are the same distance from the rear wall.

Install the hold-down bolts with some putty to make them stand upright in the toilet flange.

Putting in the New Bowl

  • Toilet installation goes pretty much the reverse of removal. Handle the bowl and tank with care, since they can crack and chip easily.
  • Start by inverting the new bowl (or bowl/tank unit) onto a thick, protective padding of newspapers on the floor.
  • Seal the toilet to its soil pipe flange at the floor by placing a ready-made wax toilet ring gasket over the bowl’s outlet horn. The gasket should be room temperature, and the flat face should go against the bowl. If the gasket has a sleeve, it should face away from the bowl. Don’t try to reuse the old gasket–install a new one.

Fix a new wax toilet gasket over the bowl’s outlet horn, with the flat side against the bowl.

  • Two kinds of wax gaskets are available: those with plastic sleeves and those without.
  • The bowl-to-floor joint must be sealed around the edge of the bowl’s base, too. You can lay a bead of plumber’s putty so it will be squeezed between the toilet and floor. Or, use about 2 lbs. of plaster. Another choice is to caulk the joint with bathtub caulk/sealant. This is probably the easiest method. Ask your retailer to recommend a good caulk for this.
  • Remove the rag from the toilet flange opening. Now you’re ready to set the bowl.
  • Hold the bowl upright several inches off the floor so its outlet horn is directly above the toilet flange. Then lower it gently. The hold-down bolts should pass through their openings in the bowl base, and the wax gasket and toilet flange should meet.

Hold the toilet bowl in position directly above its floor flange, then lower it into place.

  • To set the bowl onto the floor as well as onto its gasket, rock it carefully from front to back and side to side while pushing down hard. You can rotate it a few degrees each way, too. This forces out the excess wax. As the bowl meets the floor, make sure it is level and square with the rear wall. Don’t raise the bowl from the floor while making adjustments, or you’ll have to go through the setting process all over again and replace the waxing.
  • Drop washers over the hold-down bolts and thread on the brass nuts. Tighten the nuts finger-tight only. Using a wrench at this point can break the bowl. Re-check both nuts for tightness after several days of use.

Hand-tighten the bowl’s hold-down nuts.

  • If the bowl has front-mounting holes, install two toilet studs with washers and nuts into the floor for the front two holes.

Installing the Tank

  • If the toilet tank hardware comes separately, install it. Remember that the trip lever nut probably has left-hand threads.
  • Now take the rubber spud washer, which fits between the tank and bowl, and set it squarely into the flush valve opening in the bottom of the tank. The washer goes beveled side out. If there is a rubber tank cushion, set that in place on the bowl. Then pick up the tank and lower it gently into place on the back of the bowl.
  • Install the two long brass tank-mounting bolts from inside the tank, sliding them down through the aligned holes. Place two rubber washers against the tank and bowl. Draw the washers and nuts up gently and evenly until they are snug. This finishes your bowl installation.

Finishing Up

  • Connect the tank’s water supply to the inlet valve on the bottom left-hand side of the tank (as you face it). You’ll probably have a coupling nut for doing this. The nut threads onto the inlet and works perfectly with a flat-ended riser tube. Don’t use any pipe dope on these threads.
  • Turn on the water and observe the toilet tank as it fills. If there are any leaks, further tightening should cure them. Check to see that the tank fills to the correct level, about 3/4″ below the top of the overflow tube.
  • Tighten the bowl hold-down bolts one turn (no more) beyond hand-tight. Cut off the ends, if necessary, and install the trim caps. You can fill their recesses with plumber’s putty (or bathtub caulk/sealant) and press them down over the bolts. Clean up any material that oozes out.
  • Then, smooth and clean up the excess sealant around the bowl’s base.
  • Now you can test-flush the toilet, checking for water leaks at the floor.
  • Install the new toilet seat and tank cover, and your installation is complete.

Need a Little Friendly Advice or Assistance?

If you have trouble with any part of this process, give us a call and if we’re not immediately available to assist you, one of our technicians will return your call at the very first opportunity.

Or, if the project proves to be more than you care to tackle yourself, here’s a $25 savings you can apply to our professional installation services!

New Toilet Installation Coupon

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Understanding Water Meters

What is a Unit of Water?

Water usage is measured by consumption units. One consumption unit is the same as 748.5 gallons or 100 cubic feet. A container five feet long by five feet wide and four feet high holds one consumption unit.

Why is My Consumption so High?

Consumption may be high for many reasons. If a bill is estimated too low for a length of time, an actual meter reading may result in a large increase. More people may be living in the household. During the summer, water consumption may be higher because you are watering the lawn or garden, or an outside hose may be left on. In commercial situations, you may have water-cooled air conditioning or your business may have increased or changed adding to water usage. Often, consumption may be high because of leaky plumbing.

Customers often think the meter is not working right causing high readings. To test the accuracy of your meter, use the following procedure:

Run water until the test dial (the red sweep hand located on the face of the meter) points to zero. The test hand will be straight up in the 12 o’clock position when it is on zero. Fill a one-gallon container with water. Check the position of the red test dial. It should measure .1333 cubic feet. (See illustration of meter face below.)

How Can I Tell if I Have any Water Leaks?

Newer types of water meters have a leak indicator on the face of the dial. It is a triangular or diamond-shaped indicator that revolves 354 times for every gallon of water that passes through the meter. (Note: You may see what looks like water on the face of the dial. It is oil that prevents corrosion and increases the life of the dial mechanism. It does not enter the water supply and does not affect the quality of the water delivered to the customer.)

To check for leaks, look at the indicator when no one is drawing water. It should not be moving. If it is moving, check every plumbing fixture at the property, i.e., toilet, sink, outside sprinkler, washer, etc. Shut off the valves that supply each fixture, one by one, and check the indicator after each shutoff. When closing a valve stops the indicator from moving, or slows its movement, you have found the location of a leak. There may be more than one leak!

Be sure to check toilets at the property! Toilet leaks are the most common and are hard to see or hear. Put food coloring or laundry bluing in the toilet tank and wait 10 minutes. Do not flush the toilet during this time. If the coloring appears in the toilet bowl, there is a toilet leak. Also, if you hear the toilet refilling and no one has used it, there is a leak. A major toilet leak can waste 800 cubic feet of water a day — which in some areas could cost up to $5.00 for water and $12.00 for sewer each day. That adds up quickly!

Look for leaky faucets, too. A fast drip from a faucet wastes about 265 gallons a day — which in some municipalities would cost 40 cents for water and $ .92 for sewer per day. That’s over $40 a month! Repair leaky faucets and toilets promptly — do it yourself or call a plumber because these leaks cost money.

Once the leak is repaired, check the leak indicator again and make sure all leaks are repaired.

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Safety Tips for Flood Damage

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) recommends several safety tips to the victims of floods. This safety alert illustrates some dangerous practices which consumers may be tempted to engage in during efforts to rebuild or while staying in temporary housing, tents or partially damaged homes. This information is provided in an effort to prevent injuries and deaths from consumer products as flood survivors make new beginnings. “We hope this information helps prevent product-related injuries and deaths during these difficult times.”

Do not use electrical appliances that have been wet.

Water can damage the motors in electrical appliances, such as furnaces, freezers, refrigerators, washing machines, and dryers.

If electrical appliances have been under water, have them dried out and reconditioned by a qualified service repairman. Do not turn on damaged electrical appliances because the electrical parts can become grounded and pose an electric shock hazard or overheat and cause a fire. Before flipping a switch or plugging in an appliance, have an electrician check the house wiring and appliance to make sure it is safe to use.

Electricity and water don’t mix.

Use a ground-fault circuit-interrupter (GFCI) to help prevent electrocutions and electric shock injuries. Portable GFCIs require no tools to install and are available at prices ranging from $12 to $30.

Types of Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters Include:

  • Receptacle
  • Circuit Breaker
  • Portable Plug-in
  • Portable Cord Type

When using a “wet-dry vacuum cleaner,” be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions to avoid electric shock.

Do not allow the power cord connections to become wet. Do not remove or bypass the ground pin on a three-prong plug. Use a GFCI to prevent electrocution.

Never remove or bypass the ground pin on a three-pronged plug in order to insert it into a non-grounding outlet.

Never allow the connection between the machine’s power cord and the three-wire grounded extension cord to lie in water.

To prevent a gas explosion and fire, have gas appliances (natural gas and LP gas) inspected and cleaned after flooding.

If gas appliances have been under water, have them inspected and cleaned and their gas controls replaced, if necessary. The gas company or a qualified appliance repair person or plumber should do this work. Water can damage gas controls so that safety features are blocked, even if the gas controls appear to operate properly. If you suspect a gas leak, don’t light a match, use any electrical appliances, turn lights on or off, or use the phone. These may produce sparks. Sniff for gas leaks, starting at the water heater. If you smell gas or hear gas escaping, turn off the main valve. Open windows, leave the area immediately, and call the gas company or a qualified appliance repair person or plumber for repairs. Never store flammable materials near any gas appliance or equipment.

Check to make sure your smoke detector is functioning.

Smoke detectors can save your life in a fire. Check to make sure the smoke detector is working properly near any electrical equipment such as HVAC equipment, washer and dryer units, and water heaters that could have been damage during flooding

Wet carpet and other furnishings can lead to the growth of biological pollutants.

Bacteria, fungi, and dust mites can grow on wet surfaces. If furnishings have been under water, they must be thrown out or steam-cleaned and dried thoroughly.

  • Throw out water-damaged mattresses, wicker furniture, straw baskets and the like because they may contain mold. These items cannot be recovered.
  • Throw out any water-damaged furnishings such as carpets, drapes, stuffed toys, upholstered furniture and ceiling tiles, unless they can be restored by steam cleaning or hot water washing and thorough drying.
  • Remove and replace wet insulation to prevent conditions where biological pollutants can grow.

U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission

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Low Water Usage Toilets

The truth about high-efficiency toilets… not your father’s low flow…

Problems with first-generation “low flow” toilets were infamous in the early 1990s. Some consumers complained that the toilets clogged too often, needed several flushes to clear the bowl, or caused problems with their home plumbing.

Although later generations of water-saving toilets have resolved such issues, misconceptions have persisted and kept many consumers from saving both water and money. With new designs and technological advancements, today’s high-efficiency toi­lets use less than 1.3 gallons per flush and perform as well as—or better than—conventional, less efficient models.

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s (EPA’s) WaterSense program is making it easy for consumers to identify high-efficiency toilets in the marketplace.

Toilets that are certified by independent, third-party testing to meet EPA’s rigorous criteria for both efficiency and performance can earn the WaterSense label.

Look for WaterSense labeled toilets and don’t let these myths keep you from saving water and saving money!

MYTH: Low-flow = Poor Performance

FACT: WATERSENSE LABELED TOILETS GET THE JOB DONE.

Many tend to associate lower flow with lower flushing power. Not true. New technology and design advancements, such as pressure-assisted flushers and modifications to bowl contours allow high-efficiency toilets to flush better than first-generation low-flow toilets. All WaterSense labeled toilets have met EPA’s efficiency and performance requirements, meaning double-flushing and clogging should not be an issue (but remember—any toilet will clog if used as a trash can).

MYTH: High-efficiency Toilets Cause Problems with Home Plumbing Systems

FACT: WATERSENSE LABELED TOILETS MEET OR EXCEED PLUMBING STANDARDS.

Some consumers worry that lower flows may back up pipes and ruin home plumbing. There is no need to worry. WaterSense labeled high-efficiency toilets meet or exceed all national plumbing
standards required of all toilets.

MYTH: High-Efficiency Toilets Are Too Expensive

FACT: WITH THE POTENTIAL FOR REBATES AND LOWER WATER BILLS, WATERSENSE LABELED TOILETS CAN SAVE YOU MORE MONEY THAN YOU THINK.

Considering the potential savings on water bills, it could be more costly not to purchase a WaterSense labeled toilet. Also, many local utilities offer rebates ranging from $25 to more than $200 to replace older toilets with new, water-efficient models. In many cases, with cost savings and rebates, a WaterSense labeled toilet can pay for itself in only a few years.

MYTH: High-Efficiency Toilets Are Not Available in the Style I Want

FACT: WATERSENSE LABELED TOILETS ARE AVAILABLE IN A WIDE RANGE OF MODELS.

Numerous WaterSense labeled toilets are already available at retailers in many regions in a range of styles for standard to high-end bathrooms. EPA’s WaterSense label helps consumers easily identify high-performing, high-efficiency toilets, so look for the WaterSense label and start saving water while you upgrade your bathroom!

Can You Tell Fact from Fiction?

FICTIONFACT
All low-flow toilets need multiple flushes and often clog.WaterSense labeled toilets must meet strict criteria for water efficiency and flushing performance
Lower flows lead to problems with home plumbing systems.WaterSense labeled toilets meet or exceed national plumbing performance standards.
WaterSense labeled toilets cost more than other toilets.With cost savings on water bills and potential rebate options, WaterSense labeled toilets can be cheaper than other, less efficient models.

Source: Environmental Protection Agency

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A Guide to Sump Pumps

Sump pumps are employed to help prevent basement flooding. The protection they offer is especially important in finished basements containing recreation rooms, offices and bedrooms.

As the water table rises and falls through the seasons, the pump collects excess water and moves it away from your home’s foundation. A variety of pumps and sizes are available including water powered and battery powered back up models for use in areas prone to power outages. We’ll be happy to evaluate your needs and help you select the correct sump pump for your home.

The sump pump has recently become more important especially in newer homes since the Federal Clean Water Act no longer allows builders in many municipalities to drain rainwater collected by gutters into sewerage systems. Water collected on the roof of your home and drained by your gutters can cause flooding if it is not carried carried far enough away from your foundation.

Checking Your Sump Pump

It is important to check your sump pump regularly to make sure that it is in proper working condition.

Remove the cover and slowly pour water into the sump tank. Watch for the “float” to rise and trigger the pump. Once the pump is engaged, the water level will quickly lower and the float will shut off the pump. This is what is called “a normal sump cycle”.

Most problems with the sump pump are float related. Learn about the importance of backup sump pumps and having a reliable sump pump backup system.

Sump Pump Problems Can Be Easily Avoided

Many of us take for granted that we have a sump pump and that it works effectively. Some of us don’t even know what a sump pump looks like, but when a water problem arises in our home, we soon realize their importance. Although sump pumps have a lifespan of 5 to 7 years, they may fail unexpectedly for various reasons.

One of the most common causes for sump pump failure is an electrical power outage. To safeguard yourself from this potential situation, it is wise to have a backup generator that can be manually activated. This measure alone, however, is not a guarantee against sump pump problems. It is also possible that your primary pump can mechanically fail and a generator cannot help in this situation.

Choosing the correct size for your home will ensure maximum life expectancy for your sump pump.

Installing a sump pump must be done right. It is of utmost importance that the manufacturer’s instructions be carefully followed for the installation in order to avoid severe water damage down the road. The sump pump pit should not be set in dirt or gravel as this can cause debris to enter your pump. Debris can result in interference with the pump’s on/off switch or the float arm

Sump Pump Float Switches

Level Control

The most common function of a sump pump is to protect a basement from flooding. The pump is activated when water reaches a certain level in the sump tank and pumps out the excess water.

The float switch is the part of the sump pump that activates the pump when water reaches a certain threshold. It is therefore an essential element to avoid flooding. The float switch is usually the first part of a sump pump to break, so it is recommended to choose a sump pump whose float switch is easily replaceable.

1. Diaphragm Switch

The diaphragm switch is a popular type for professionals and is also the most expensive. The entire sump pump is immersed under water and on it is a membrane that is sensitive to water pressure. As the water level rises, the water pressure increases and the diaphragm becomes concave, thereby activating the switch to turn on the sump pump. When the water level drops, the switch turns off. Since there is no float, there is nothing to get stuck, which is a common problem with other types of sump pumps.

2. Vertical Action Float

This type of switch is recommended because it is not as expensive as the diaphragm switch and it is superior to the tethered float. The float is a ball that floats above the water. As the water level rises so does the float which, at some point, will trigger the switch to turn on the pump. This float has limited movement up and down a vertical rod thereby giving it less freedom of movement and less of a chance to get stuck as the tethered float does for example. Vertical float switches are often of better quality than tethered floats and usually carry a longer warranty.

3. Tethered Float

The tethered float is the most common and is used for pedestal sump pumps. The float hangs from the pump and floats on the water. As the water rises, so does the float and the switch is triggered. Common problems related to the tethered float include the float accumulating grime and causing it to lose buoyancy and even sink. Another common problem is that the float gets stuck to the inner wall or pump and as a result, when the water rises in the sump tank, the float may stay submerged and fail to activate the pump. Pedestal sump pumps have the added advantage of having the electrical unit above the water level. Other types are submerged and involve more risk of electrical accidents.

4. Electronic “Flood Free” switch

There is a fourth type of switch that can be used. It is electric and has no actual float. Instead, a probe wire is placed to sense the presence of water and is activated when it becomes submerged by rising water. A second probe wire can also be placed at a higher level to set off an alarm switch or another backup pump. This particular switch can be used in many types of applications.

Mercury Poisoning

If you use a sump pump in a tank containing water that you may use for drinking, make sure that your float switch is not made of mercury. There are two types of tethered float switches, some are made of mercury (which is cheaper) and others of steel. It is hard to tell the ball of mercury apart from the ball of steel.

Backup Sump Pump

How do you know if you need a backup sump pump? Well, if your basement floods during the winter months and you live in an area where floods and thunderstorms usually knock out the power, then you may want to look into buying a backup sump pump that can work on its own power. A sump pump that runs on its power is considered to be a support pump. That is to say, it is used together with your primary pump. Should your primary pump fail, this back up sump pump will start.

There are two types of backup sump pumps, one that runs on a rechargeable 12 Volt battery and one that is hooked up to your house’s water system and operates with water pressure.

Backup System Can Protect your Home in a Power Outage

When a powerful storm passes through cities and towns, very often it takes with it the entire neighborhood’s power supply. In the event of a power outage, people are left with no light, no heat and no running water; but a home is also left with a disabled sump pump. A sump pump is your home’s first line of defense against groundwater that could potentially enter your home and cause destruction. To ensure that your home is not left vulnerable after a loss of power, install a reliable backup system for your sump pump that will allow it to continue working. Read on for more information about the benefits of generators and battery-powered backup systems.

A Battery Backup Sump Pump System

A battery-operated backup sump pump system looks a lot like an oversized car battery. When the power is on in the house, a battery system will automatically charge itself. The backup pump is activated by a sensor that is located slightly higher than the one for the main pump. In the event of an emergency, when water rises above the level of the backup sensor, the backup system uses its DC power to turn itself on. Depending on the particular model of battery-powered backup system, there is generally enough power to keep your sump pump working for several hours. The batteries come in two different styles: sealed and unsealed. A sealed battery is considered maintenance-free and usually supplies power for 3 to 3 1/2 hours. An unsealed battery has ports that you can open in order to check the level of the fluid and add distilled water as you see fit. Typically, an unsealed battery will last for about 7 hours.

A Generator Backup System

When buying a generator, it is crucial that you choose one that has enough power to actually run a sump pump in the case of an emergency. For example, a small sump pump requires 800 – 1000 watts with a surge to 1200 – 1800 watts. All generators have a maximum and rated output. The maximum output should never be sustained for more than 25 to 30 minutes at a time. Most generators are gasoline-powered, a few run on diesel, and some models have multi-fuel capabilities – running on gasoline, propane or natural gas. These are generally full-featured machines with engine idle control, GFCI receptacles and 120 Volt full power switch.

The Necessity for a Sump Pump Backup

Unfortunately, problems do arise with sump pumps and when your sump pump stops working, your home becomes vulnerable to water damage. Once your sump pump has been installed, do not assume that it will always effectively do its job. You would be wise to install a reliable sump pump backup, as well as routinely check on your pump during bad weather and every few months.

Electric Level Controls for Sump Pumps

Floods can surprise any homeowner at any time. This unexpected act of nature can cause severe damage to property along with huge headaches for the ill-prepared. Your first line of defense should be a sump pump. And if just installing a sump pump is not quite enough protection, equip them with modern technology that can handle any type of flood problem. Let’s explore how a handful of sump pump accessories can help protect you in ways that were inconceivable a few decades ago.

Flood-Free Electronic Level Control Pumps

Flood Free Electronic Level Control Pumps monitor and control the water level, thanks to an electronic float switch. A Floodfree pump switch can be adapted to any manual sump pump for automatic operation. There are no floats;only probe wires are in use. A Floodfree Switch eliminates pump damage caused by defective float or diaphragm controls, and will not be affected by floating debris. The most common cause of basement flooding is attributable to float control failure. Floats can get stuck, float switches can fail, and rubber can get stiff and dry rotted, all of which can prevent proper functioning of a sump pump. A Floodfree switch lets you determine the amount of water to let into the sump (high water level) as well as the amount of water to let out (low level).

SumpWatcher

The SumpWatcher is made from polyester. It is an “Electronic Float” that replaces the traditional float switch on a sump pump. Since it has no moving parts, it cannot get stuck, corrode, wear out, or fail like a regular mechanical float switch. The SumpWatcher will turn the pump on and off, monitor the motor current to the pump and alert you if it is drawing too much current. If the SumpWatcher should become overwhelmed with incoming water, not function properly, or detect a particular problem, it will alert you. The SumpWatcher will test the pump motor on a daily basis to ensure proper operation.

Dual Float Level Switch Deluxe

Dual float means dual protection from float switch failure. Industrial strength electronics means an extended life span compared to ordinary float switches. The controller monitors pump and power conditions, and will sound an alarm should a problem arise. It begins the pumping cycle when either of the floats rises by 1/4″, and runs the pump an additional 10 seconds after the float returns to its original position. When a warning signal sounds, a light will appear on the front panel of the controller indicating the nature of the problem detected. A light will blink continuously to assure you that the controller is functioning properly. A light will also remind you when the battery is low or when to turn the slide switch back to the ON position. The Dual Float Level Switch deluxe will also sound an alarm when the float has been raised for 10 consecutive minutes. This would indicate a potential pump or plumbing problem. A remote terminal provides a connection to a home security system or remote dialer.

PumpGuard

The PumpGuard eliminates the threat of flooding caused by a faulty pump switch. This innovative pump protection system features an alarm override circuit and switch that will sound an alarm as well as override your primary pump switch and run your pump in the event of switch failure. The PumpGuard is designed to be used with a fully automatic 115V sump or sewage pump using a two-cord piggyback switch system. The PumpGuard can be combined with an optional dialer for remote alert and an optional battery back-up system for a more secure flood protection.

© Online-Access, Inc.

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Scalding Takes Seconds

With the average water heater settings, it only takes five seconds to cause a third degree burn.

Most home water heaters are set at 140°F to provide sufficient hot water and prevent the growth of Legionella and other harmful bacteria. At this temperature it only takes five seconds to cause a third degree burn. Children and the elderly have a thinner outer skin, so it takes half as long as adults to cause serious injury.

“Each year, approximately 3,800 injuries and 34 deaths occur in the home due to scalding from excessively hot tap water. The majority of these accidents involve the elderly and children under the age of five.”
– U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission

Fortunately, tap water scalding accidents are 100% preventable! When you have a thermostatic mixing valve installed in your home, you can maintain water temperatures sufficiently high to prevent Legionella, and also limit tap and bath water temperatures to prevent scalding.

Water TemperatureTime Needed to Cause 3rd Degree Burns
155°F1 Second
148°F2 Seconds
140°F5 Seconds
133°F15 Seconds
127°F60 Seconds
124°F3 Minutes
120°F5 Minutes

Source: Moritz, A.R., Herriques, F.C. Jr. Studies of thermal injuries: II The relative importance of time and surface temperature in the causation of cutaneous burns. Am J Pathol 1947; 23:695-720.
© 2006 Service Roundtable

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How to Repair a Leaky Faucet

Are you a do-it-yourselfer? Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to repair a leaky faucet.

Step 1. Locate the Leak

Begin by inspecting the faucet to locate the leak. A loose packing nut probably causes a leak at the base of the handle. If water is leaking from the faucet, chances are a washer is worn and needs replacing. Turn off the water to the faucet at the turn-off valve and close the drain so small parts can’t slip down while working.

Step 2. Remove the Valve Unit

Remove any decorative caps from the cold or hot handles.

remove-valve-unit

Unscrew the handles and remove them. Use smooth-jaw pliers to loosen the packing nut located under the handle. Now remove the entire valve unit and be sure to line up the parts in the order that you remove them so you can reassemble the faucet correctly.

Step 3. Replace a Worn or Damaged Washer

Inside the valve unit you will find a rubber washer held in place with a screw.

replace-washer

Loosen the screw and remove the washer. Check to see if the washer is worn or damaged. If it needs to be replaced make sure to match the size and thickness of the washer exactly. Place the valve unit back into the faucet, tighten the packing nut and replace the handle. Finally, turn the water back on and check for leaks.

Don’t Have Time to Fix it Yourself?

At Your 1 Plumber, we ALWAYS have time for great customers like you, and that includes answering your questions about repairing your leaky faucet over the phone. It’s all part of our expanded customer service capabilities.

Or, if you simply don’t have the time – or patience! – to fix it yourself, just give us a call and you’ll save $25 with the coupon below.

Stay tuned next month for another do-it-yourself project to help you save money on your plumbing and other household repairs.

repair-leaky-faucet-coupon

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Typical Residential Water Use

How do you use your water? Here’s a breakdown of the typical residential water use in the USA.

Water UsePercentage
Lawns and gardens36%
Showers and baths20%
Toilets19%
Clothes and dish washing16%
Potable uses9%
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Why Choose Your 1 Plumber?

At Your 1 Plumber, we go beyond just fixing leaks and unclogging drains — we build long-term relationships based on trust, reliability, and quality workmanship. Our team is committed to making your experience smooth, stress-free, and completely satisfying. Here’s what sets us apart
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