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Unclogging Your Garbage Disposal

July 11, 2014

A clogged garbage disposal is generally caused by the lack of water while grinding the waste material and inability of the flywheel to grind the food waste.

This may also happen because the disposal has outlived its lifespan.

Things you’ll need for this job:

Water
Baking soda
Vinegar
Flashlight
Knife
Toilet plunger
Wrench
Screwdriver

Step 1: Power Off

Turn off the circuit breaker from the main electric panel and power off the garbage disposal system.

Step 2: Water and Vinegar

Try running water down the garbage disposal system. Also, pour in a mix of baking soda and vinegar. This may help loosen the waste material and clear the clog.

Step 3: Check Drain

Shine a flashlight through the sink into the garbage disposal hole. Check to see that there is no debris that is blocked there. One can use an implement like tongs or a sharp knife to try and free whatever is jammed inside.

Step 4: Use Plunger

If the drain system has backed up, place a clean toilet plunger over the drain. Pump the water in and out until the water begins to drain out. This may help clear the source of the clog.

Step 5: Check Hex-head Hole

Open the cupboard under the sink that houses the garbage disposal unit. At the bottom of the garbage disposal cylinder, there is a hex-head hole to which a hex-head wrench can be fitted. Turn the wrench clock-wise and counter-clockwise a number of times until it can go around in either direction. Any unseen obstruction will be removed by following this step. In case a hex-head wrench is not available, one can use a wooden implement to insert into the opening.

Step 6: Clean Blades

Rotate the blades in the garbage disposal by using the tip of a screwdriver. If the blades do not move easily, this may be the cause of the trouble. Rotate the blades till you are able to free the obstruction from the blades. If the rotation does not help, one can try tapping a sledgehammer against the screwdriver to try and dislodge the obstruction. A mirror and flashlight can be used during this process. The clogging generally happens when items like potato skins, banana skins and egg shells get caught under the blades.

Step 7: Clean the P-Trap

Sometimes coffee grounds cause clogs to occur. These occur in the P-trap and trap arm of the drain. Unscrew the nut at the bottom of the tee along with the slip nut that lies between the P-trap and the trap arm. Clean the trap and reinstall it. Test it with warm water to see that it is in working condition. Keep a pan underneath to trap the dirty water that will flow out. Remove the trap arm and clean it. The debris can be removed from the pipe stub by running a screwdriver inside it.

Step 8: Test and Check

Turn on the reset button at the bottom of the garbage disposal cylinder. Turn on the electricity from the main electricity panel. Also, turn on the power switch of the garbage disposal system. Check that the garbage disposal system is in working condition.

Need a Little Friendly Advice or Assistance?

If you have trouble with any part of this process, give us a call and if we’re not immediately available to assist you, one of our technicians will return your call at the very first opportunity.

Or, if the project proves to be more than you care to tackle yourself, here’s a $25 savings you can apply to our professional plumbing repair services!

Dryer Vent Safety

May 17, 2014

Did you know overheated clothes dryers can cause fires?

Fires can occur when lint builds up in the dryer or in the exhaust duct. Lint can block the flow of air, cause excessive heat build-up, and result in a fire in some dryers.

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission estimates that in 1998, clothes dryers were associated with 15,600 fires, which resulted in 20 deaths and 370 injuries.

Prevent Dryer Fires

Clean the lint screen/filter before or after drying each load of clothes.
If clothing is still damp at the end of a typical drying cycle or drying requires longer times than normal, this may be a sign that the lint screen or the exhaust duct is blocked.
Clean the dryer vent and exhaust duct periodically.
Check the outside dryer vent while the dryer is operating to make sure exhaust air is escaping. If it is not, the vent or the exhaust duct may be blocked. To remove a blockage in the exhaust path, it may be necessary to disconnect the exhaust duct from the dryer. Remember to reconnect the ducting to the dryer and outside vent before using the dryer again.
Check the exhaust duct more often if you have a plastic, flexible duct.
This type of duct is more apt to trap lint than ducting without ridges.
Clean behind the dryer, where lint can build up.
Have a qualified service person clean the interior of the dryer chassis periodically to minimize the amount of lint accumulation. Keep the area around the dryer clean and free of clutter.
Replace plastic or foil, accordion-type ducting material with rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct.
Most manufacturers specify the use of a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct, which provides maximum airflow. The flexible plastic or foil type duct can more easily trap lint and is more susceptible to kinks or crushing, which can greatly reduce the airflow. Closely follow manufacturers’ instructions for new installations. Most manufacturers that get their clothes dryers approved by Underwriters Laboratories specify the use of metal exhaust duct. If metal duct is not available at the retailer where the dryer was purchased, check other locations, such as hardware or builder supply stores. If you are having the dryer installed, insist upon metal duct unless the installer has verified that the manufacturer permits the use of plastic duct.
Take special care when drying clothes that have been soiled with volatile chemicals such as gasoline, cooking oils, cleaning agents, or finishing oils and stains.
If possible, wash the clothing more than once to minimize the amount of volatile chemicals on the clothes and, preferably, hang the clothes to dry. If using a dryer, use the lowest heat setting and a drying cycle that has a cool-down period at the end of the cycle. To prevent clothes from igniting after drying, do not leave the dried clothes in the dryer or piled in a laundry basket.

U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission – CPSC Document #5502, Updated June 2003

Zoeller Sump Pumps

April 29, 2014

Sump pumps are employed to help prevent basement flooding.

The protection they offer is especially important in finished basements containing recreation rooms, offices and bedrooms. As the water table rises and falls through the seasons, the pump collects excess water and moves it away from your home’s foundation. A variety of pumps and sizes are available including water powered and battery powered back up models for use in areas prone to power outages. We’ll be happy to evaluate your needs and help you select the correct sump pump for your home.

Your 1 Plumber sells and installs Zoeller pumps, “Pumps the Pros Use.” ™

Setting the Temperature on Your Water Heater

March 29, 2014

The majority of injuries and deaths involving tap water scalds are to the elderly and children under the age of five.

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) urges all users to lower their water heaters to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. In addition to preventing accidents, this decrease in temperature will conserve energy and save money.

Safety Alert: Tap Water Scalds!

Most adults will suffer third-degree burns if exposed to 150 degree water for two seconds. Burns will also occur with a six-second exposure to 140 degree water or with a thirty second exposure to 130 degree water. Even if the temperature is 120 degrees, a five minute exposure could result in third-degree burns. Various procedures for lowering water temperature in the home exist, depending on the method of heating. Here are some suggestions:

Electric water heaters. Call your local electric company to adjust the thermostat. Some companies offer this service at no-charge. Hot water should not be used for at least two hours prior to setting. To make the adjustment yourself, start by shutting off current to the water heater, then turn off the circuit breaker to the heater or remove the fuse that serves the heater. Most electric water heaters have two thermostats, both of which must be set to a common temperature for proper operation. To reach these thermostats you must remove the upper and lower access panels. Adjust the thermostat following the instructions provided with the appliance. Hold a candy or meat thermometer under the faucet to check water temperature.

Gas water heaters. Because thermostats differ, call your local gas company for instructions. Where precise temperatures are not given, hold a candy or meat thermometer under faucet for most accurate reading first thing in the morning or at least two hours after water use. If reading is too high, adjust thermostat on heater, according to manufacturer’s instructions, and check again with thermometer.

Furnace heater. If you do not have an electric, gas, or oil-fired water heater, you probably have an on-line hot water system. Contact your fuel supplier to have the temperature lowered. If you live in an apartment, contact the building manager to discuss possible options for lowering your tap water temperature. Reducing water temperature will not affect the heating capacity of the furnace.

CPSC notes that a thermostat setting of 120 degrees Fahrenheit (49 degrees Celsius) may be necessary for residential water heaters to reduce or eliminate the risk of most tap water scald injuries. Consumers should consider lowering the thermostat to the lowest settings that will satisfy hot water needs for all clothing and dish washing machines.

Never take hot water temperature for granted. Always hand-test before using, especially when bathing infants and young children. Leaving a child unsupervised in the bathroom, even if only for a second, could cause serious injuries. Your presence at all times is the best defense against accidents and scalding to infants and young children.

U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission – Document #5098

Kerosene Heater Safety

March 15, 2014

If you are using a kerosene heater, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission and the National Kerosene Heater Association advise you to follow these suggestions in order to minimize the risk of fire and potential health effects from indoor air pollution.

Use only water-clear 1 K grade kerosene. Never use gasoline. Gasoline is not the same as kerosene. Even small amounts of gasoline or other volatile fuels or solvents mixed with kerosene can substantially increase the risk of a fire or an explosion.
Always store kerosene in a separate container intended for kerosene, not in a gasoline can or a can that has contained gasoline. This helps you avoid using contaminated fuel or the wrong fuel by mistake. Kerosene containers are usually blue; gasoline containers are usually red.
When purchasing kerosene at the pump, make sure to use the kerosene pump, not the gasoline pump. Some service stations have separate islands for kerosene. Some oil companies have also established quality control programs to minimize the chances of gasoline contamination of kerosene.
1-K grade kerosene should be purchased from a dealer who can certify that what is being sold is 1-K. State operated and private sector certification programs that ensure the quality of kerosene are established in some states. Grades other than 1-K can lead to a release of more pollutants in your home, posing a possible health risk. Different grades of kerosene can look the same so it is important that the dealer certify that the product sold is 1-K grade kerosene.
Never refuel the heater inside the home. Fill the tank outdoors, away from combustible materials, and only after the heater has been turned off and allowed to cool down. Do not refuel the heater when it is hot or is in operation. Do not fill the fuel tank above the “full” mark. The space above the “full” mark is to allow the fuel room to expand without causing leakage when the heater is operating.
In case of flare-up or if uncontrolled flaming occurs, do not attempt to move or carry the heater. This can make the fire worse. If the heater is equipped with a manual shut-off switch, activate the switch to turn off the heater. If this does not extinguish the fire, leave the house immediately and call the fire department. As an added reminder and precaution, install at least one smoke detector near each sleeping area or on each level of the house.
Reduce your exposure to indoor air pollutants by properly operating and maintaining your portable kerosene heater. Although portable kerosene heaters are very efficient in the burning of fuel to produce heat, low levels of certain pollutants such as carbon monoxide and nitrogen dioxide are produced. Exposure to low levels of these pollutants may be harmful, especially to inpiduals with chronic respiratory or circulatory health problems. To assure that you and family members are not exposed to significant levels of these pollutants, you should follow carefully the following rules of safe operation:

Operate your heater in a room with a door open to the rest of the house.

If you must operate your heater in a room with the door closed to the rest of the house, open an outside window approximately an inch to permit fresh air to effectively dilute the pollutants below a level of concern.

Always operate your heater according to the manufacturer’s instructions, making sure that the wick is set at the proper level as instructed by your manufacturer.

Keep the wick in your heater clean and in good operating condition by following the cleaning and maintenance procedures recommended by the manufacturer.

Keep an outside window opened approximately an inch to insure adequate fresh air infiltration. This is true regardless of whether you use a kerosene heater or some other conventional method of heating, if your home is relatively new and tight, or if it is older but has been winterized to reduce air infiltration from the outside.

CAUTION: Improper fuel may cause pollution and sooting of the burner. Use only water clear No. 1-K Kerosene.

DANGER: Risk of explosion. Never use gasoline in this heater.

CAUTION: Risk of indoor air pollution. Use this heater only in a well ventilated area. See operating instructions for details.

U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC)

How is Water Treated?

February 15, 2014

Prechlorination

Chlorine is added to the raw as it enters each plant. Chlorine kills microorganisms such as bacteria, protozoa, and viruses that may cause illness in humans. Chlorine also prevents the growth of algae at the treatment plant that may interfere with treatment of water and cause taste and odor problems. Enough chlorine is added to maintain a residual of 1 part per million or residual chlorine in water after filtration. A chlorine residual is needed to prevent re-growth of bacteria in the piping network otherwise known as the distribution system.

Coagulation/Flocculation

Alum (aluminum sulfate) is added to the water to destabilize natural fine particulate matter suspended in water. This process in known as coagulation. These particles enter water through land erosion, airborne contaminants, decay of natural organic matter such as plants and animal wastes, and discharges resulting from human activities. The impurities found in water suspensions consist of charged colloids (colloid – a very small solid suspended in water which varies in size, density and electric charge) ranging in size from 5 nm to 1 um and particulates greater than 0.5 mm. Most of these particles will not settle by gravity due to their charge and because they are lighter than water (their density is less than water). The addition of alum causes these particles and colloids to clump together to form heavier particles which will settle in water.

Alum is added quickly to the water at the plants using mechanical mixers. This process is known as Rapid Mix. After passing through the Rapid Mix process, the water travels through flocculation basins where it is gently stirred by slow moving paddles. Gentle mixing brings small particles into contact so that they will collide, stick together, and grow to a size that will readily settle. These large particles are referred to as floc. Formation of proper floc is necessary for particles to be removed during sedimentation and filtration.

Sedimentation

After flocculation, the water and floc moves slowly through large basins known as sedimentation or settling basins.

The water moves very slowly through these basins due to their large size. This allows the floc to settle to the bottom of the basin. The floc that falls to the bottom of the basins is collected into a hopper by large rotating scrapers where it is removed several times daily by the plant operators. Clear water above the floc layer (referred to as treatment residuals) flows out of the sedimentation basin and to the filters. Removal of particles in the sedimentation basin improves the operation of the filters that comprises the next treatment process after sedimentation.

The sedimentation process removes many particles including clay and silt based turbidity, natural organic matter, and other associated impurities. These impurities include microbial contaminants, toxic metals, synthetic organic chemicals, iron, manganese and humic substances. Humic substances come from soil are produced within natural water and sediments by chemical and biological processes such as the decay of vegetation. Removal of humic substances from drinking water is desirable since they form disinfection byproducts when chlorine is added to the water. At high concentrations, disinfection by-products such as trihalomethanes are a public health concern.

Filtration

The last step in purifying the water is accomplished by passing water through a bed of sand and gravel.

As water filters through the sand, the remaining particles of suspended matter are trapped in the sand bed. In the filtration process, water flows on top of the sand bed and travels through the bed until it is collected at the bottom in underdrains. Filtered water flows from the underdrains into clearwells or filtered water reservoirs. The rate of filtration is regulated using controllers. The filters must be cleaned periodically as material becomes trapped in the filter and reduces the rate of filtration. Cleaning of the filters is also needed to prevent solids from passing through the filters into the filtered water. To keep the filters operating at their best performance, the filter operators take each filter out of service so they can be backwashed. Backwashing cleans the filters by forcing clean water backward through the sand to remove the solids which are deposited in waste drains. Filters are backwashed on a rotating schedule to ensure that plants can continuously operate.

Fluoridation

Fluoride is added to the filtered water at each of the plants to reduce tooth decay. The plants maintain fluoride levels of approximately one part per million in the treated water.

Post-Chlorination

If needed, additional chlorine is added to the finished water that leaves the water plants. Low levels of chlorine (approximately 0.2 to 1.0 part per million) must be maintained in the distribution systems pipes and home plumbing to prevent the growth of microorganisms.

Corrosion Control

Lime is added to the treated water at the water plants before the water is added to the distribution system. Lime (or calcium oxide) is added to raise the pH of the water to a level of about 8 standard units. The process reduces the ability of the water to corrode water mains and home plumbing materials such as copper, lead, and brass. Corrosive water can dissolve lead and copper. Excessive levels of dissolved lead and copper are public health concern particularly for young children.

Source: http://publicworks.baltimorecity.gov

Identifying and Fixing Common Toilet Leaks

January 23, 2014

Are you a do-it-yourselfer? Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to identify and fix common toilet leaks.

Toilet leaks can waste as much as four to five gallons of water per minute and cost you up to $100.00 per month in increased water and wastewater bills. Toilet leaks occur in two ways and are often very difficult to detect.

Flush Valve (Flapper) Ball Leak

The most common toilet leak and often hardest to detect is caused by a deteriorated or defected flush valve (flapper) ball at the bottom of the toilet tank. If the flapper or ball valve does not seat properly and form a water tight seal, water will leak around it into the toilet bowl. Often, this leak will occur without being heard. To test for this type of leak, add a few drops of food color or place a colored dye tablet (available from many hardware stores or possibly your water utility) in the toilet after it has stopped filling.

An Easy Way to Check for Flush Valve Leaks:

In just minutes, you can find out if a toilet is wasting thousands of gallons due to an undiscovered water leak. Here’s how:

Remove the tank lid, then flush
After the flapper/tank ball drops and the tank refills, add several drops of dark food coloring) or a fluidmaster leak detector tablet).
Wait at least 20 minutes.
If any trace of color appears in the toilet bowl, there is a leak.

Solutions to Fix Flush Valve Leaks

Replacing a Float Cup Fill Valve

Adjust height by twisting shank in/out of valve body.
Position valve in tank.
Turn on water.
Adjust water level.

Replacing a Float Ball (Ballcock) Fill Valve

Check height and adjust if necessary
Place valve in tank inlet hole, making sure rod arm position allows proper movement of float ball
Screw rod arm into valve arm
Screw float ball onto rod arm
Turn on water supply

Replacing a Tank Ball

Slide lower life wire through upper lift wire, then through guide arm on overflow pipe
Thread tank ball onto lower lift wire
Align tank ball over drain seat, keeping wire vertical
Check operation to be sure ball seats properly

Replacing a Flush Valve

Cut new overflow pipe to match height of old pipe
Install valve by tightening lock nut ½ turn beyond hand tight
Slide gasket onto threaded end of valve
Connect flapper chain to flush lever
Attach refill tube to overflow pipe
Reconnect tank to bowl

Float Ball (Ballcock) Valve Leak

The second most-common type of leak is caused by an improperly adjusted or broken fill (ball cock) valve.

If the float is set too high or if the shut-off valve fails to close completely, water will continue to enter the tank and flow into the overflow tube. This type of leak can be seen simply by taking the tank top off and observing if water is flowing into the overflow tube once the tank is full.

The solution to this type of toilet problem is to reset the tank water to a lower level by using the fill valve’s water level adjustment clip. If it is a Float Cup-type valve, squeeze the two sides of the metal clip together, then slide clip down the rod. In the case of a Float Ball-type valve, lower water level by bending float arm slightly downward.

Need a Little Friendly Advice or Assistance?

If you have trouble with any part of this process, give us a call and if we’re not immediately available to assist you, one of our technicians will return your call at the very first opportunity.

Or, if the project proves to be more than you care to tackle yourself, here’s a $25 savings you can apply to our professional installation services!

Selecting & Maintaining a Sump Pump

January 14, 2014

Here are some tips for selecting and maintaining a sump pump, but for fast, professional service give us call!

If you have a house with a basement or crawl space, you likely have a sump pump. From time to time, these pumps need to be replaced. Knowing what type of pump works best for your situation will keep failures, flooded basements and other hazards to a minimum.

There are two main types of sump pumps: pedestal and submersible. A pedestal type pump has the motor attached to the top of a shaft. The motor is not designed to be under water. A pedestal pump works well in small diameter basins.

Submersible pumps are designed to sit in the base of the sump basin, below water level. These are more adapted to larger sump basins and are typically quieter than pedestal pumps.

Sump pumps usually come with an automatic on/off switch. A float switch is the most common. As the float rises with rising water levels in the basin, the pump is started after the water rises to a certain level.

To determine the size of pump needed you must know how much water will need to be pumped, how high the water will be pumped, and the length and size of pipe. Do not assume that having a large horsepower pump will be the best choice. A large horsepower pump in a small diameter basin will cause the pump to cycle frequently, shortening pump life. At the same time, you need a pump that will keep up with maximum drainage. Pump capacity charts are available through professional installers or pump manufacturers, or they can be found on the web.

When installing a sump pump, it is usually recommended that a check valve be installed. This prevents water left in the outlet pipe from flowing back into the basin. Some valves can be attached to the sump pump itself, while others are placed farther up the outlet pipe. If the valve is not attached to the pump, it is recommended that a 1/8-inch air relief hole be drilled into the outlet pipe, between the valve and the pump. This prevents a condition called an air lock, where the pump will attempt to work but cannot pump water. Be sure the air relief hole is placed so that any water that comes out of the hole will remain in the drainage basin!

A dedicated electrical circuit should be used for the pump. Most pumps have a high amp load when starting. Do not use an extension cord to plug the pump into the outlet.

To maintain a sump pump, periodically check the system. Make sure the float is free of obstructions. Observe the outlet to make sure water is actually being pumped. Listen for unusual noises when the pump is running. If the pump runs just a few months of the year, fill the basin with water and make sure the system is operating before its normal operation time begins.

If a sump pump fails, and water gets into the basement, do not attempt repairs without first turning off the power to all basement outlets. To minimize long term indoor air quality concerns, dry the areas affected as soon as possible. If flooding is severe or long lasting, dry wall, carpeting and other materials may need to be replaced.

If a quality pump is used that is properly sized, it should last three or more years, with 10 years being reasonable, according to the U.S. Department of Housing and Development. When purchasing a pump, look for one that is built and tested according to Sump and Sewage Pump Manufacturers Association (SSPMA) specifications.

Source: University of Illinois

Space Heater Safety

December 13, 2013

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) estimates that in 1994, electric space heaters were associated with 2,400 fires resulting 80 deaths, 240 injuries and $48.2 million in property loss.

The Problem

Even though electric space heaters don’t have an open flame, the heating elements of some types of electric heaters are hot enough to ignite nearby combustibles like draperies, paper, clothing, furniture, and flammable liquids. It is, therefore, important to check surrounding objects periodically to see if they feel hot. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions to see how far the heater should be placed from combustible materials, and for how far the heater should be placed from the floor so that carpeting or flooring materials don’t ignite.

Additionally, to prevent electrocutions, always keep portable electric heaters away from water, never use them in a bathroom or near a sink. (If you must use an appliance near water, always use a ground fault circuit interrupter).

CPSC Recommends the following when selecting an electric heater:

Look for one that is listed with a nationally-recognized testing laboratory. These heaters have been tested to meet specific safety standards, and manufacturers are required to provide important use and care information to the consumer. On heaters that are not listed, consumers have less assurance that the safety features and operating instructions are adequate.
Purchase a heater with a guard around the heating element. A wire grill or other protection is essential to keep fingers or fabrics from touching the hot element. Portable electric heaters that heat by circulating oil or water, however, usually have lower surface temperatures and may not need guards.
Before using the heater, read and follow the instructions for its operation and maintenance.
If you must use an extension cord, make sure it is a heavy duty cord marked with a # 14 gauge or larger wire An incorrectly-sized cord may create a fire hazard. If the heater’s plug has a grounding prong, use only a grounding (three-wire) extension cord.
Never run the heater’s cord (or any cord) under rugs or carpeting.
Do not leave the heater operating unattended or operating while sleeping. Portable electric air heaters are designed for use only as temporary supplemental heating and only while attended.
To prevent electrical shocks and electrocutions, always keep portable electric heaters away from water and never touch an electric heater if you are wet.

Safety Tips

Do not use an electric heater as a dryer by placing clothing over it and never use it heater to thaw pipes.
Keep the heater in safe working condition Replace missing guards and controls at once. Never operate a defective heater.
Don’t place the heater where children might play near it or where people might trip over or bump into it.
Place the heater on a level surface for stability.

Regardless of the type of heating system you have, install and maintain at least one smoke detector that is in good working condition on each floor of your home.

U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC)

Unclogging a Sink Drain

November 11, 2013

Here are easy-to-follow instructions on how to unstop your kitchen or bathroom sink drains.

Read these instructions carefully before tackling this job on your own, and see below to learn how Your 1 Plumber can help.

Unclogging Moderately Clogged Drains

If you have a moderately clogged drain, try this homemade drain cleaner: Pour 1/2 cup of baking soda down the drain followed by 1/2 cup of vinegar. Be careful. The two ingredients interact with foaming and fumes, so replace the drain cover loosely. Let the concoction set for about three hours before running water.
If you know the slow drain is from grease, try this treatment: Pour in 1/2 cup of salt and 1/2 cup of baking soda followed by a teakettle of boiling water. Allow to sit overnight.

Alternative Approach for Moderately Clogged Drains

If the drain is sluggish but not completely clogged, turn on the hot water tap for 5 to 10 minutes. This sometimes opens the drain.
If running hot water does not open the sluggish drain, try an environmentally safe chemical drain opener like Bio-Clean. It’s a powder that mixes with water, and can only be obtained from quality plumbing companies like Your 1 Plumber. Before using Bio-Clean, read the label and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
After using any chemical cleaner, flush it from the drain pipes by allowing hot water to run for at least 10 minutes.

Unclogging Completely Clogged Drains

In some cases, using a simple suction cup will open a clogged sink drain.
Remove the basket strainer from the drain.
Run hot water until it stands about 2″ deep in the sink.
Take a suction cup plunger and pump it up and down directly over the clogged drain. The water in the sink provides a seal. If the suction cup does not clear the drain in a few minutes, you will probably be forced to remove some of the pipes to get the job done
If you cannot open the drain with the suction cup, set a pail underneath the sink trap and remove the cleanout plug and washer. If the drain is only slightly clogged, a few quick probes with a screwdriver may solve the problem.
If the screwdriver doesn’t open it, use a snake or drain auger through the pipe. A drain auger works best if you rotate it, feed it in a short distance, and then rotate it again. This enables the drain auger to be inserted deeply into the pipe.
After the drain pipe is opened, replace the cleanout plug and washer. Run scalding water through the pipe to carry away any accumulations.

Need a Little Friendly Assistance?

If you have trouble with any part of this process, give us a call and if we’re not immediately available to assist you, one of our technicians will return your call at the very first opportunity.

Or, if the project proves to be more than you care to tackle yourself, here’s a $35 savings you can apply to our professional drain cleaning services!

Gas-Fired Water Heater Safety

September 23, 2013

The Consumer Product Safety Commission has been working to reduce the risk of injuries and deaths from gas-fired water heaters.

The Commission was briefed on the issue by CPSC staff in June of 1994. The Commission let the industry know that it wanted to see a solution to this problem, and that it was considering development of a Federal regulation that would address the problem of flammable vapor ignition in gas-fired heaters.

Prior to 1994, the Commission staff had been seeking a permanent, technical solution to the hazard of flammable vapors. Commission staff believed that this problem required not only the education of consumers about the proper use and storage of flammable liquids, but also a redesign of water heaters.

Following the June 1994 Commission meeting, industry officials informed the Commission that they were working on a technical solution — a redesign of water heaters — that would eliminate the ignition of flammable vapors by water heaters. Industry also expressed a willingness to work closely in voluntary cooperation with CPSC on the issue.

Giving industry the opportunity to voluntarily develop the technology necessary to achieve a permanent solution has several advantages over regulation. The voluntary approach results in manufacturers investing their own resources in developing test methodologies — saving taxpayer dollars and making use of industry’s knowledge and technical expertise about the product they manufacture.

In December, 1994, following the water heater manufacturers’ offer to work with CPSC to eliminate the hazard, the Commission agreed to postpone the regulatory process. But, CPSC Chairman Ann Brown expressly stated that industry must make real progress toward a technical solution and on developing a performance standard by which the safety of any new design could be measured.

As part of the CPSC’s participation with industry in the efforts to reach a technical solution to this problem, CPSC staff has been closely monitoring the development of vapor-ignition resistant water heaters by the Water Heater Joint Research and Development Consortium. Three prototypes have already been tested and performed well in flammability tests.

The industry is funding the independent development of that performance test standard. The Gas Research Institute is developing a way to test gas-fired water heaters to ensure that they will not ignite flammable vapors. A technical advisory group consisting of representatives from the gas industry, manufacturers, industry trade associations and CPSC staff, oversees this project.

The Commission has also worked with industry to educate the public on the hazard of flammable vapors. The Commission endorsed a large public information campaign launched by the Gas Appliance Manufacturers Association in 1994 which included television commercials and materials designed to appeal to and inform children about the hazard. In addition, the Commission published its own information on the hazard in its home and fire safety brochures.

To reduce the hazard of flammable vapors, consumers should:

Make sure gas-fired water heaters are installed according to code requirements;
Where possible, elevate heaters 18 inches from the floor, whether installed in a basement or garage;
Never use gasoline to clean equipment or tools;
Use gasoline only as a motor fuel;
Store gasoline only in tightly sealed red containers intended for gasoline; and
Keep all flammable materials and liquids away from gas-fired water heaters.

U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission

Water Hardness

August 7, 2013

A complete guide to water hardness – questions, answers, and general information regarding water hardness.

Tap Water pH

My Neighbor Had This Test Done and Was Told the City Water is Alkaline and Hard. Is This True?

Only if compared to water that is acidic and very soft. The pH (acid/alkaline level) of tap water leaving the treatment plants is about 7.5, which is close to neutral. Completely neutral water is 7.0 on a scale of 0 to 14. Water less than 7 is considered acidic. City water is discharged slightly alkaline to prevent corrosion of water pipes and to help maintain adequate disinfection of the water, which is more effective at a higher pH.

And What Does That Mean Anyway?

“Hard” refers to a measure of difficulty — how hard it is to form lather and suds — and to the hard mineral deposit left on fixtures. “Soft” water uses less soap and detergent to form lather and suds, and can make clothing and skin feel softer.

What are These Grains of Hardness That People Refer To?

Water hardness is expressed in one of two units of measurement. The first unit is parts per million (ppm) and the second expression of hardness is grains per gallon (gpg). A gpg equals about 17 ppm.

My Neighbor Said City Water Has a Hardness of 2-3 gpg. I Have No Idea What That Means. Is That Hard or Soft?

It depends on who you ask. The US Geological Survey established levels of hardness in 1962. These classifications are given below.

Classification	Parts per Million	Grains per Gallon
Soft	0 – 60	0 – 3.5
Moderately Soft	61 – 120	3.5 – 7.0
Moderately Hard	121 – 180	7.0 – 10.5
Very Hard	181 +	10.5 +

Private organizations such as the Water Quality Association have changed the government classifications so that only water below 1.0 gpg is considered soft, and the level from 1.0 to 3.5 is called slightly hard. WQA is a self-monitoring trade association of the home and commercial water treatment industry.

What Causes This Hardness? Should I Be Concerned About Some Kind of Contamination?

No. The level of hardness is determined mainly by the amount of two minerals, calcium and magnesium. From a health standpoint, these minerals have no adverse effects and are, in fact, essential daily nutrients. In addition, water contains trace amounts of vital minerals that are found only in minute quantities in the human body. Researchers have found that these tiny amounts can have a beneficial effect on human health.

Are There Advantages to Having Extremely Soft Water?

Very soft water won’t leave mineral deposits on pans or mineral scale buildup in hot water heaters. You will use less of household cleaning products like detergents, and less of personal hygiene products like shampoo. You may get longer life from appliances like dishwashers and washing machines.

What About Disadvantages to Softening?

Softening units remove calcium and magnesium minerals and replace them with sodium. For each gpg of hardness removed, 7.5 milligrams of sodium are added to each quart of water, a possible concern to those on low sodium diets. Softened water is also not recommended for watering plants due to its sodium content.

Softened water increases the potential for leaching metal from pipes, solder and plumbing fixtures. Increased levels of copper, lead, zinc and cadmium are found in soft water, especially when it stands overnight in the plumbing system. These levels can exceed EPA primary drinking water standards, especially for brass fixtures and faucets.

Why Would Anyone Soften the City Water if We Already Have Moderately Soft Water?

As the home water treatment industry has grown in the US, the concept of water softening has often been misconstrued as a purifying and cleansing process. This is due largely to exaggerated advertising and to consumer misconceptions about water treatment. In reality, hardness minerals can be a nuisance at high levels, but they are not a threat to health.

Choosing a Water Heater

May 17, 2013

The first step in choosing a water heater is to determine the appropriate fuel type.

Natural gas, oil, and propane water heaters are generally less expensive to operate than electric models. If you are considering electricity, check with your local utility company or electricity supplier to see if they offer off-peak electricity rates. If available, heating your water during off-peak hours will save you money.

Water Heater Resources
EREC Fact Sheet: Selecting a New Water Heater and Water Heating Fact Sheet

If you are in a moderate climate, consider a heat-pump water heater, which is more efficient than a conventional electric water heater. Though a heat-pump water heater may have a high initial cost, it can save up to 50% of your water heating bill in moderate climates. Heat pumps can be added onto your water heater or purchased as an integral part of a new water heater.

The efficiency of water heaters is indicated by their energy factor (EF), which is based on recovery efficiency, standby losses, and cycling losses. The higher the EF, the more efficient the water heater. Electric resistance water heaters have EFs ranging from 0.7 and 0.95; gas water heaters from 0.5 and 0.6, with some high-efficiency models ranging around 0.8; oil water heaters from 0.7 and 0.85; and heat-pump water heaters from 1.5 to 2.0. Everything else being equal, select a water heater with the highest energy factor (EF). Also look for a water heater with at least one-and-a-half inches of tank insulation and a heat trap.

In the United States, all water heaters are sold with EnergyGuide labels to indicate their energy efficiency. These labels provide estimated annual operating costs, and also indicate the cost of operating the models with the highest annual operating cost and the lowest annual operating cost. By comparing a model’s annual operating cost with the operating cost of the most efficient model, you can compare their efficiencies.

Although some consumers buy water heaters based on the size of the storage tank, the first-hour rating (FHR), provided on the EnergyGuide label, is actually more important. The FHR is a measure of how much hot water the heater will deliver during a busy hour. Before you buy a water heater, estimate your household’s peak-hour hot water use (your water use during morning showers, for instance) and look for a unit with an FHR in that range.

Demand water heaters are an option that should be considered when replacing a water heater or when building a new home. Demand water heaters only produce hot water when you need it, thereby avoiding the energy losses due to storing hot water. However, they have a low flow rate and may not be ideal for large families. For more information, see the Consumer’s Guide, Demand (Tankless) Water Heaters page.

Tankless coil water heaters use a heating coil installed in the main furnace for water heating. Common in oil-fired boilers and some gas-fired boilers, tankless coil water heaters are an inefficient means of heating water. A better solution is offered by indirect water heaters, which use the main furnace to heat a fluid that is then circulated through a tank of water. The energy stored by the water tank allows the furnace to turn on and off less often, thereby saving energy. If used with a high-efficiency boiler and a well-insulated tank, this can be the least expensive means of providing hot water.

For safety as well as energy-efficiency reasons, when buying gas- and oil-fired water heaters, look for units with sealed combustion or power venting to avoid back-drafting of combustion gases into the home.

Finally, it can save you energy and money to put some thought into the best location for your water heater. Whenever possible, do not install the water heater in an unheated basement. Also try to minimize the piping runs to your bathroom and kitchen.

U.S. Department of Energy – Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy – Building Technologies Program

Sump Pump Types

April 28, 2013

A guide to sump pump types – features, key differences, installation, and more.

Pedestal – An electric pump that stands upright, with a motor a few feet above it that is not meant to get wet. It has a float-activated switch that turns the pump on when the water reaches a certain level. This type of sump pump is ideal for basements needing frequent water drainage. They usually are the least expensive but are noisier than the submersibles.

Submersible – These types of electrical pumps are installed in ground and are designed to work underwater. They have the same float-activated switch. They are more expensive than the pedestal pumps but are quieter and tend to have a longer life because their sealed, oil-cooled motors are protected from moisture and dust.

Plastic vs. Cast Iron
Plastic sump pumps suit some applications for the cost-conscience. Use cast iron models for contractor-grade, longer-lasting applications.

Water-powered – This type of pump runs off the water pressure from your home plumbing system and has the same float-activated switch. These pumps handle water at a comparable rate to the electric types, but require no electricity to operate. It can be installed along side an electric sump and is generally used as a back up system during a power failure.

Floor Sucker Pumps – New type of pump that is used mostly in basements, cellars or crawl spaces which do not have an actual sump pit. It is called a floor sucker pump because it removes water right down to within a 1/8″ of the floor (or from other surfaces like a roof or the ground). Available in various flow rates, manual or automatic operation, with some electronically controlled. These types of pumps were particularly useful during the east coast storms this fall.

No matter what type you have, each sump pump should have a check valve on the water outlet pipe so water does not flow back into the sump when the pump shuts off. Water flowing back and forth can cause the pump to turn on and off more than necessary and shorten the life of the pump.

Submersible Sump Pumps

The submersible sump pump features a watertight motor (sealed and submerged in oil) making it fully functional under water. It is placed at the bottom of a sump basin and installed below water level. Although a little more costly than the pedestal type, it has significant advantages.

typically quieter
requires less maintenance
out of plain sight
can handle larger quantities of water
less hazardous to children

Features

Sump pumps come in an array of sizes and styles. To find the right sump pump, begin by estimating your needs, and measure the size and depth of the sump pit to ensure a good fit. Two features that are important to consider when shopping around for a submersible sump pump are: GPM and horsepower.

Size and Power

Capacity of water flow – GPM (gallons per minute)
Horse power – motor capacity required to discharge the water

Manual and Automatic Switches

Float-activated switch
Sealed interior switch

An automatic switch is your best bet as it will activate the sump pump should flooding occur when you are not home. The manual switch requires that someone turn on the switch in order to start the sump pump.

Corrosion

When looking for parts or housings for your sump pump, make sure to avoid purchasing materials that corrode. Non-corroding materials such as cast bronze, alloy, stainless steel and epoxy-coated cast iron are durable and reliable.

Back-Up Plan

Like any other mechanical device, a submersible sump pump can break down. If your philosophy is “better to be safe than sorry”, you need to have a back-up plan in place.

Extra protective devices such as alarms and battery powered back up sump pumps can be purchased to provide you with peace of mind and additional assurance against water damage in case of system failure.

Installation

Free installation or installation at a small fee may be offered from the place of purchase; look into it. It is recommended that a submersible sump pump be installed by a professional. Improper installation can result in system malfunction and thus cannot guarantee protection against flooding.

Floor Sump Pump “The Floor Sucker”

Every home owner has a fear of coming home to a basement full of water. A leak as a result of heavy rain storms or an accidental pipe burst has the potential to cause severe damage to your basement or cellar area. Even a few inches of water can destroy your precious belongings and/or instantly wipe out your treasured memorabilia. If your home does not have a sump pump to protect your basement from water, it is crucial that you find another way of keeping water out. A floor sucker is a versatile utility sump pump that can handle the task.

The Effectiveness of a Floor Sucker

The floor sucker was created for homeowners who do not already have a sump pump in their home. The unit is highly versatile and can be used to protect your basement, cellar, roof and even crawl space against water damage. The floor sucker runs with the assistance of an oil-filled motor and is housed in an epoxy cast aluminum shell. It can be used fully or partially submerged, indoors and outdoors, and can drain down to 1/8 of an inch. Depending on your needs, there are different models available including the 1200 GPH pump which features a 1 inch discharge with garden hose adapter, a 26.3 inch shut-off head capability, and a screened inlet. In addition, each model has varying flow rates and can be manually or automatically operated. Other than for home purposes, a floor sucker can be used for commercial and industrial needs including pet applications, statuary fountains, pool covers, equine and livestock therapy, air conditioners and machine tool coolants. In any situation requiring the transfer or recirculation of liquid, the floor sucker is well-suited. So whatever your specific need, there is a pump that can safely and effectively handle the task.

Detect a Leak with a Water Alarm

You can never take too many precautions when it comes to protecting your home from water. A water alarm is a tool used to detect leaks that can cause irreparable damage. It detects water on a surface with its two metal contacts. The device runs off a standard 9v battery and can be placed in any location where there is a risk of water seepage.

Source: www.sump-pump-info.com

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Water Hardness

Tap Water pH

My Neighbor Had This Test Done and Was Told the City Water is Alkaline and Hard. Is This True?

And What Does That Mean Anyway?

What are These Grains of Hardness That People Refer To?

My Neighbor Said City Water Has a Hardness of 2-3 gpg. I Have No Idea What That Means. Is That Hard or Soft?

What Causes This Hardness? Should I Be Concerned About Some Kind of Contamination?

Are There Advantages to Having Extremely Soft Water?

What About Disadvantages to Softening?

Why Would Anyone Soften the City Water if We Already Have Moderately Soft Water?

Choosing a Water Heater

Sump Pump Types

Submersible Sump Pumps

Features

Size and Power

Manual and Automatic Switches

Corrosion

Back-Up Plan

Installation

Floor Sump Pump “The Floor Sucker”

The Effectiveness of a Floor Sucker

Detect a Leak with a Water Alarm

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