Blog - Page 18 of 18 - Your 1 Plumber | Germantown Plumber

Classification	Parts per Million	Grains per Gallon
Soft	0 – 60	0 – 3.5
Moderately Soft	61 – 120	3.5 – 7.0
Moderately Hard	121 – 180	7.0 – 10.5
Very Hard	181 +	10.5 +

Sump Pump Types

April 28, 2013

A guide to sump pump types – features, key differences, installation, and more.

Pedestal – An electric pump that stands upright, with a motor a few feet above it that is not meant to get wet. It has a float-activated switch that turns the pump on when the water reaches a certain level. This type of sump pump is ideal for basements needing frequent water drainage. They usually are the least expensive but are noisier than the submersibles.

Submersible – These types of electrical pumps are installed in ground and are designed to work underwater. They have the same float-activated switch. They are more expensive than the pedestal pumps but are quieter and tend to have a longer life because their sealed, oil-cooled motors are protected from moisture and dust.

Plastic vs. Cast Iron
Plastic sump pumps suit some applications for the cost-conscience. Use cast iron models for contractor-grade, longer-lasting applications.

Water-powered – This type of pump runs off the water pressure from your home plumbing system and has the same float-activated switch. These pumps handle water at a comparable rate to the electric types, but require no electricity to operate. It can be installed along side an electric sump and is generally used as a back up system during a power failure.

Floor Sucker Pumps – New type of pump that is used mostly in basements, cellars or crawl spaces which do not have an actual sump pit. It is called a floor sucker pump because it removes water right down to within a 1/8″ of the floor (or from other surfaces like a roof or the ground). Available in various flow rates, manual or automatic operation, with some electronically controlled. These types of pumps were particularly useful during the east coast storms this fall.

No matter what type you have, each sump pump should have a check valve on the water outlet pipe so water does not flow back into the sump when the pump shuts off. Water flowing back and forth can cause the pump to turn on and off more than necessary and shorten the life of the pump.

Submersible Sump Pumps

The submersible sump pump features a watertight motor (sealed and submerged in oil) making it fully functional under water. It is placed at the bottom of a sump basin and installed below water level. Although a little more costly than the pedestal type, it has significant advantages.

typically quieter
requires less maintenance
out of plain sight
can handle larger quantities of water
less hazardous to children

Features

Sump pumps come in an array of sizes and styles. To find the right sump pump, begin by estimating your needs, and measure the size and depth of the sump pit to ensure a good fit. Two features that are important to consider when shopping around for a submersible sump pump are: GPM and horsepower.

Size and Power

Capacity of water flow – GPM (gallons per minute)
Horse power – motor capacity required to discharge the water

Manual and Automatic Switches

Float-activated switch
Sealed interior switch

An automatic switch is your best bet as it will activate the sump pump should flooding occur when you are not home. The manual switch requires that someone turn on the switch in order to start the sump pump.

Corrosion

When looking for parts or housings for your sump pump, make sure to avoid purchasing materials that corrode. Non-corroding materials such as cast bronze, alloy, stainless steel and epoxy-coated cast iron are durable and reliable.

Back-Up Plan

Like any other mechanical device, a submersible sump pump can break down. If your philosophy is “better to be safe than sorry”, you need to have a back-up plan in place.

Extra protective devices such as alarms and battery powered back up sump pumps can be purchased to provide you with peace of mind and additional assurance against water damage in case of system failure.

Installation

Free installation or installation at a small fee may be offered from the place of purchase; look into it. It is recommended that a submersible sump pump be installed by a professional. Improper installation can result in system malfunction and thus cannot guarantee protection against flooding.

Floor Sump Pump “The Floor Sucker”

Every home owner has a fear of coming home to a basement full of water. A leak as a result of heavy rain storms or an accidental pipe burst has the potential to cause severe damage to your basement or cellar area. Even a few inches of water can destroy your precious belongings and/or instantly wipe out your treasured memorabilia. If your home does not have a sump pump to protect your basement from water, it is crucial that you find another way of keeping water out. A floor sucker is a versatile utility sump pump that can handle the task.

The Effectiveness of a Floor Sucker

The floor sucker was created for homeowners who do not already have a sump pump in their home. The unit is highly versatile and can be used to protect your basement, cellar, roof and even crawl space against water damage. The floor sucker runs with the assistance of an oil-filled motor and is housed in an epoxy cast aluminum shell. It can be used fully or partially submerged, indoors and outdoors, and can drain down to 1/8 of an inch. Depending on your needs, there are different models available including the 1200 GPH pump which features a 1 inch discharge with garden hose adapter, a 26.3 inch shut-off head capability, and a screened inlet. In addition, each model has varying flow rates and can be manually or automatically operated. Other than for home purposes, a floor sucker can be used for commercial and industrial needs including pet applications, statuary fountains, pool covers, equine and livestock therapy, air conditioners and machine tool coolants. In any situation requiring the transfer or recirculation of liquid, the floor sucker is well-suited. So whatever your specific need, there is a pump that can safely and effectively handle the task.

Detect a Leak with a Water Alarm

You can never take too many precautions when it comes to protecting your home from water. A water alarm is a tool used to detect leaks that can cause irreparable damage. It detects water on a surface with its two metal contacts. The device runs off a standard 9v battery and can be placed in any location where there is a risk of water seepage.

Source: www.sump-pump-info.com

Sample of Boiler Manufacturer Response to Flooded Equipment

April 17, 2013

Technical Bulletin

Dated: September 28, 1999
Subject: Flooded Boilers
Issued by: Tom Senter, Weil McLain

This bulletin covers how to service a Weil-McLain cast iron boiler, which has been either partially or fully, under water due to flooding conditions.

DANGER
If any part of a boiler, burner or its controls has been sprayed or submerged under water, either partially or fully, DO NOT attempt to operate the boiler until the boiler has been either replaced or completely repaired, inspected, and you are sure that the boiler and all components are in good condition and fully reliable. Otherwise, by operating this boiler, you will cause a fire or explosion hazard, and an electrical shock hazard, leading to serious injury, death, or substantial property damage.

When a flooding condition has occurred with a boiler, you must follow one of these two (2) options:

Replace the boiler which has experienced flooding conditions with a new Weil-McLain boiler, OR
Thoroughly service the boiler which has experienced flooding conditions using the following guidelines:
1. Replace all controls, gas valves, and electrical wiring on the boiler. Once an electrical control has been wet, it poses a fire and electrical shock risk and must be replaced. Gas valves are no longer assured to provide a safe shut-off to the gas, potentially causing gas leaks, fires, and explosions. Even mechanical devices such as float low water cut-offs and safety relief valves need to be replaces, as their components may become corroded, making the device unreliable for future use.
2. Thoroughly inspect all burner tubes, gas piping, manifolds, orifices, and flue ways for signs of rust and/or sediment from the flood waters. The rust and sediment can prevent proper operation of the boiler if it is not cleaned out from the boiler.
3. For oil-filled boilers, replace all oil burners. Oil burners, including Weil-McLain QB series burners, are complex systems consisting of solenoid valves, motors, electrodes, and pumps. If these components have experienced flooding, oil leaks, valve failures, and electrical faults may occur resulting in a severe fire hazard, potential injury or death. In the case of large commercial burners, such as Gorden-Piatt and Power Flame, it is more cost efficient to replace the entire burner rather than attempting to replace all the controls and repair the mechanical components.
4. Replace all insulation that has become water damaged. This includes jacket insulation, base box insulation, and combustion chamber insulation and refractories. After insulation has become water damaged due to flooding, it may deteriorate, reducing its insulation value and causing a potential fire hazard. Also, it can pose a health risk due to bacteria from the flood waters remaining in the insulation.
5. Where possible, inspect seal rings for damage from petroleum products. Flood waters are often contaminated with gasoline and other petroleum products, which damage elastomer seals used on most Weil-McLain boilers.
6. Thoroughly inspect all venting for signs of corrosion. Replace any venting that is rusting or corroded in order to prevent flue gasses from entering the building through the venting system.

NOTE: Even if only part of the boiler has been submerged in flood waters, replace ALL controls, gas valves, and other components as noted above. There is no easy way to know which components may be damaged; and even if a control was not submerged, water can get inside components because of splashing, wicking action, and/or moisture in the air. Water and sediment easily enter controls, wiring, and insulation and other boiler components. Even if you can not see obvious signs of penetration, water and sediment may have entered a device and render it unsafe. Replacing the boiler is usually the quickest and most cost economical option when servicing a boiler that has experienced flooding. With so many areas of concern in attempting to repair a boiler that has experienced flooding conditions, replacing the boiler is generally the safest choice.

Energy-Efficient Water Heating

March 2, 2013

To lower your water heating bills, try one or more of these energy-saving strategies:

Reduce your hot water use
Lower your water heating temperature
Insulate your water heater tank
Insulate your hot water pipes
Install heat traps on a water heater tank
Install a timer and use off-peak power for an electricwater heater
Install a drain-water heat recovery system

Reduce Your Hot Water Use

You can lower your water heating costs by using and wasting less hot water in your home. To conserve hot water, you can fix leaks, install low-flow fixtures, and purchase an energy-efficient dishwasher and clothes washer.

Fix Leaks

You can significantly reduce hot water use by simply repairing leaks in fixtures—faucets and shower heads—or pipes. A leak of one drip per second can cost $1 per month.

If your water heater’s tank leaks, you need a new water heater.

Install Low-Flow Fixtures

Federal regulations mandate that new shower head flow rates can’t exceed more than 2.5 gallons per minute (gpm) at a water pressure of 80 pounds per square inch (psi). New faucet flow rates can’t exceed 2.5 gpm at 80 psi or 2.2 gpm at 60 psi. You can purchase some quality, low-flow fixtures for around $10 to $20 a piece and achieve water savings of 25–60%.

Shower Heads

For maximum water efficiency, select a shower head with a flow rate of less than 2.5 gpm. There are two basic types of low-flow shower heads: aerating and laminar-flow. Aerating shower heads mix air with water, forming a misty spray. Laminar-flow shower heads form individual streams of water. If you live in a humid climate, you might want to use a laminar-flow shower head because it won’t create as much steam and moisture as an aerating one.

Before 1992, some shower heads had flow rates of 5.5 gpm. Therefore, if you have fixtures that pre-date 1992, you might want to replace them if you’re not sure of their flow rates. Here’s a quick test to determine whether you should replace a shower head:

Place a bucket—marked in gallon increments—under your shower head.
Turn on the shower at the normal water pressure you use.
Time how many seconds it takes to fill the bucket to the 1-gallon (3.8 liter) mark.

If it takes less than 20 seconds to reach the 1-gallon mark, you could benefit from a low-flow shower head.

Faucets

The aerator—the screw-on tip of the faucet—ultimately determines the maximum flow rate of a faucet. Typically, new kitchen faucets come equipped with aerators that restrict flow rates to 2.2 gpm, while new bathroom faucets have ones that restrict flow rates from 1.5 to 0.5 gpm.

Aerators are inexpensive to replace and they can be one of the most cost-effective water conservation measures. For maximum water efficiency, purchase aerators that have flow rates of no more than 1.0 gpm. Some aerators even come with shut-off valves that allow you to stop the flow of water without affecting the temperature. When replacing an aerator, bring the one you’re replacing to the store with you to ensure a proper fit.

Energy-Efficient Dishwashers & Washing Machines

The biggest cost of washing dishes and clothes comes from the energy required to heat the water. You’ll significantly reduce your energy costs if you purchase and use an energy-efficient dishwasher and clothes washer.

Dishwashers

It’s commonly assumed that washing dishes by hand saves hot water. However, washing dishes by hand several time a day can be more expensive than operating an energy-efficient dishwasher. You can consume less energy with an energy-efficient dishwasher when properly used and when only operating it with full loads.

When purchasing a new dishwasher, check the EnergyGuide label to see how much energy it uses. Dishwashers fall into one of two categories: compact capacity and standard capacity. Although compact-capacity dishwashers may appear to be more energy efficient on the EnergyGuide Label, they hold fewer dishes, which may force you to use it more frequently. In this case, your energy costs could be higher than with a standard-capacity dishwasher.

One feature that makes a dishwasher more energy efficient is a booster heater. A booster heater increases the temperature of the water entering the dishwasher to the 140ºF recommended for cleaning. Some dishwashers have built-in boosters, while others require manual selection before the wash cycle begins. Some also only activate the booster during the heavy-duty cycle. Dishwashers with booster heaters typically cost more, but they pay for themselves with energy savings in about 1 year if you also lower the water temperature on your water heater.

Another dishwasher feature that reduces hot water use is the availability of cycle selections. Shorter cycles require less water, thereby reducing energy cost.

If you want to ensure that your new dishwasher is energy efficient, purchase one with an ENERGY STAR label.

Washing Machines

Unlike dishwashers, clothes washers don’t require a minimum temperature for optimum cleaning. Therefore, to reduce energy costs, you can use either cold or warm water for most laundry loads. Cold water is always sufficient for rinsing.

Inefficient clothes washers can cost three times as much to operate than energy-efficient ones. Select a new machine that allows you to adjust the water temperature and levels for different loads. Efficient clothes washers spin-dry your clothes more effectively too, saving energy when drying as well. Also, front-loading machines use less water and, consequently, less energy than top loaders.

Small-capacity clothes washers often have better EnergyGuide label ratings. However, a reduced capacity might increase the number of loads you need to run, which could increase your energy costs.

If you want to ensure that your new clothes washer is energy efficient, purchase one with an ENERGY STAR label.

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Lower Your Water Heating Temperature

You can reduce your water heating costs by simply lowering the thermostat setting on your water heater. For each 10ºF reduction in water temperature, you can save between 3%–5% in energy costs.

Although some manufacturers set water heater thermostats at 140ºF, most households usually only require them set at 120ºF or even 115ºF. Water heated at 140ºF also poses a safety hazard—scalding. However, if you have a dishwasher without a booster heater, it may require a water temperature within a range of 130ºF to 140ºF for optimum cleaning.

Reducing your water temperature to 120ºF also slows mineral buildup and corrosion in your water heater and pipes. This helps your water heater last longer and operate at its maximum efficiency.

Consult your water heater owner’s manual for instructions on how to operate the thermostat. You can find a thermostat dial for a gas storage water heater near the bottom of the tank on the gas valve. Electric water heaters, on the other hand, may have thermostats positioned behind screw-on plates or panels. As a safety precaution, shut off the electricity to the water heater before removing/opening the panels. Keep in mind that an electric water heater may have two thermostats—one each for the upper and lower heating elements.

Mark the beginning temperature and the adjusted temperature on the thermostat dial for future reference. After turning it down, check the water temperature with a thermometer at the tap farthest from the water heater. Thermostat dials are often inaccurate. Several adjustments may be necessary before you get the right temperature.

If you plan to be away from home for at least 3 days, turn the thermostat down to the lowest setting or completely turn off the water heater. To turn off an electric water heater, switch off the circuit breaker to it. For a gas water heater, make sure you know how to safely relight the pilot light before turning it off.

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Insulate Your Water Heater Tank

Unless your water heater’s storage tank already has a high R-value of insulation (at least R-24), adding insulation to it can reduce standby heat losses by 25%–45%. This will save you around 4%–9% in water heating costs.

If you don’t know your water heater tank’s R-value, touch it. A tank that’s warm to the touch needs additional insulation.

Insulating your storage water heater tank is fairly simple and inexpensive, and it will pay for itself in about a year. You can find pre-cut jackets or blankets available from around $10–$20. Choose one with an insulating value of at least R-8. Some utilities sell them at low prices, offer rebates, and even install them at a low or no cost.

Insulating an Electric Water Heater Tank

You can probably install an insulating pre-cut jacket or blanket on your electric water heater tank yourself. Read and follow the directions carefully. Leave the thermostat access panel(s) uncovered. Don’t set the thermostat above 130ºF on electric water heater with an insulating jacket or blanket—the wiring may overheat.

You also might consider placing a piece of rigid insulation—a bottom board— under the tank of your electric water heater. This will help prevent heat loss into the floor, saving another 4%–9% of water heating energy. It’s best done when installing a new water heater.

Insulating a Gas Water Heater Tank

The installation of insulating blankets or jackets on gas and oil-fired water heater tanks is more difficult than those for electric water heater tanks. It’s best to have a qualified plumbing and heating contractor add the insulation. If you want to install it yourself, read and follow the directions very carefully. Keep the jacket or blanket away from the drain at the bottom and the flue at the top. Make sure the airflow to the burner isn’t obstructed. Leave the thermostat uncovered, and don’t insulate the top of a gas water heater tank—the insulation is combustible and can interfere with the draft perter.

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Insulate Your Hot Water Pipes

Insulating your hot water pipes reduces heat loss and can raise water temperature 2ºF–4ºF hotter than uninsulated pipes can deliver, allowing for a lower water temperature setting. You also won’t have to wait as long for hot water when you turn on a faucet or showerhead, which helps conserve water.

Insulate all accessible hot water pipes, especially within 3 feet of the water heater. It’s also a good idea to insulate the cold water inlet pipes for the first 3 feet.

Use quality pipe insulation wrap, or neatly tape strips of fiberglass insulation around the pipes. Pipe sleeves made with polyethylene or neoprene foam are the most commonly used insulation. Match the pipe sleeve’s inside diameter to the pipe’s outside diameter for a snug fit. Place the pipe sleeve so the seam will be face down on the pipe. Tape, wire, or clamp (with a cable tie ) it every foot or two to secure it to the pipe. If you use tape, some recommend using acrylic tape instead of duct tape.

On gas water heaters, keep insulation at least 6 inches from the flue. If pipes are within 8 inches of the flue, your safest choice is to use fiberglass pipe-wrap (at least 1-inch thick) without a facing. You can use either wire or aluminum foil tape to secure it to the pipe.

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Install Heat Traps on a Water Heater Tank

If your storage water heater doesn’t have heat traps, you can save energy by adding them to your water heating system. They can save you around $15–$30 on your water heating bill by preventing convective heat losses through the inlet and outlet pipes.

Heat traps—valves or loops of pipe—allow water to flow into the water heater tank but prevent unwanted hot-water flow out of the tank. The valves have balls inside that either float or sink into a seat, which stops convection. These specially designed valves come in pairs. The valves are designed differently for use in either the hot or cold water line.

A pair of heat traps costs only around $30. However, unless you can properly solder a pipe joint, heat traps require professional installation by a qualified plumbing and heating contractor. Therefore, heat traps are most cost effective if they’re installed at the same time as the water heater. Today, many new storage water heaters have factory-installed heat traps or have them available as an option.

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Install a Timer and Use Off-Peak Power for an Electric Water Heater

If you have an electric water heater, you can save an additional 5%–12% of energy by installing a timer that turns it off at night when you don’t use hot water and/or during your utility’s peak demand times.

You can install a timer yourself. They can cost $60 or more, but they can pay for themselves in about 1 year. Timers are most cost effective if you don’t want to install a heat trap and insulate your water heater tank and pipes. Timers aren’t as cost effective or useful on gas water heaters because of their pilot lights.

Contact your utility to see if it offers a demand management program. Some utilities offer “time of use” electricity rates that vary according to the demand on their system. They charge higher rates during “on-peak”< times and lower rates during “off-peak” times. Some even offer incentives to customers who allow them to install control devices that shut off electric water heaters during peak demand periods. These control devices may use radio signals that allow a utility to shut off a water heater remotely anytime demand is high. Shut-off periods are generally brief so customers experience no reduction in service.

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Install a Drain-Water Heat Recovery System

Any hot water that goes down the drain carries away energy with it. That’s typically 80–90% of the energy used to heat water in a home. Drain-water (or greywater) heat recovery systems capture this energy to preheat cold water entering the water heater or going to other water fixtures.

How It Works

Drain-water heat recovery technology works well with all types of water heaters, especially with demand and solar water heaters.

Also, drain-water heat exchangers can recover heat from the hot water used in showers, bathtubs, sinks, dishwashers, and clothes washers. They generally have the ability to store recovered heat for later use. You’ll need a unit with storage capacity for use with a dishwasher or clothes washer. Without storage capacity, you’ll only have useful energy during the simultaneous flow of cold water and heated drain water, like while showering.

Some storage-type systems have tanks containing a reservoir of clean water. Drain water flows through a spiral tube at the bottom of the heat storage tank. This warms the tank water, which rises to the top. Water heater intake water is preheated by circulation through a coil at the top of the tank.

Non-storage systems usually have a copper heat exchanger that replaces a vertical section of a main waste drain. As warm water flows down the waste drain, incoming cold water flows through a spiral copper tube wrapped tightly around the copper section of the waste drain. This preheats the incoming cold water that goes to the water heater or a fixture, such as a shower.

By preheating cold water, drain-water heat recovery systems help increase water heating capacity. This increased capacity really helps if you have an undersized water heater. You can also lower your water heating temperature without affecting the capacity.

Cost & Installation

Prices for drain-water heat recovery systems range from $300 to $500. You’ll need a qualified plumbing and heating contractor to install the system. Installation will usually be less expensive in new home construction. Paybacks range from 2.5 to 7 years, depending on how often the system is used.

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U.S. Department of Energy – Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy

Faucet Replacement: 6 Common Mistakes

February 12, 2013

While faucet replacement doesn’t have to be a hard and dirty job, you still need to be sure that you are taking your time and installing the faucet correctly.

And, as with most DIY projects, there are some common mistakes that you should avoid to make the job go smoothly. If you want to get the job done and done well, avoid doing the following:

1. Forgetting to Turn Off the Water

This one may seem like a no-brainer but it can make quite the mess.

To ensure that you don’t accidently end up injuring yourself and flooding your house, make sure to turn off the main water before you remove the old faucet to replace it.

2. Not Sealing the Threads

If you don’t use plumber’s tape or plumber’s putty to seal the threads on your drain connections, you are going to end up with leaks that could ruin and corrode not only your pipes, but also anything being stored under your sink. Not to mention the wasted water and money.

3. Reusing Old Parts

While quite often you can get away with reusing old parts, sometimes new is better. Reusing old p-traps and other parts, especially if they are made of metal, will only cause you more problems and headaches down the road.

4. Guessing About Parts

To save yourself a lot of time and hassle trying to guess what parts and sizes you need, take the old faucet to the hardware store with you so that you will know exactly what you need to purchase.

5. Soldering While Water is Still Dripping

Make sure that the pipes are 100% dry before trying to solder them. Dry pipes are much easier to solder together and you are less likely to make a mistake.

6. Not Giving Yourself Enough Time

Even though faucet replacement is a moderately easy job, make sure that you give yourself enough time not only to get the job done, but to get the job done even if there are some problems along the way. If you don’t allow yourself enough time and end up feeling that you are rushed, you have a greater chance of making a mistake.

Need a Little Friendly Advice or Assistance?

If you need help replacing a faucet, give us a call. If we’re not immediately available to assist you, one of our technicians will return your call at the very first opportunity.

Or, if the project proves to be more than you care to tackle yourself, here’s a $25 savings you can apply to our professional installation services!

Toilet Leaks

January 26, 2013

Do you have a water leak? Leaking toilets cause more water waste than any other fixture in the home.

Even a silent toilet leak (that’s one you normally can’t hear) will waste from 30 to 500 gallons of water per day!

The ones you can hear will waste much, much more. Such wastage can normally be attributed to a faulty water level adjustment or to a leaky flapper.

Leaky flappers and the “dye test”

Most people will say their toilet does not leak. There is one sure way to find out. Put some food dye in the tank and then leave for 15 minutes. When you return, look into your bowl to see if there is now dye color in the water spot. If there is color, or if you already can hear and or see water running in your bowl, it’s time for a new flapper!

Deformed flapper valves are often the result of toilet tank cleaning products.

If you choose to change the flapper yourself, the best bet is to remove your old flapper and take it with you to purchase a new one. Removing the old flapper is easy but can be messy if it is partially disintegrated. A pair of cheap latex gloves and a small container to hold the old flapper will make your job less of a hardship.

When removing your old flapper, you will first need to turn the water off at the shut-off/supply valve. Next, disconnect the chain or tail from the trip lever arm and then slip the ears of the flapper off of the trunion ears. You will need to select a new flapper that, as near as possible, matches your old one. If your flapper is one of the hard-to-find ones, you may even need to contact the manufacturer of your toilet for a recommendation, so if you only have one toilet, it’s a good idea to keep the old flapper handy until you’ve found a suitable replacement.

While the flapper is out, take your finger and move it over the seating surface of the flush valve seat — that’s the part that the flapper sets on to seal the water. If the surface is rough, this needs to be fixed, too. If the flush valve is plastic, it will need to be replaced. This can be a bigger job and will probably require a plumber (see the next paragraph and evaluate whether you want to tackle it yourself). If the flush valve is brass, you may be able to fix it yourself. Get some 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper and lightly go over the entire surface. Repeat the process until the surface is smooth. For toilets with a flat seal type of flapper, simply slip it off the piston or other holding device and replace it with a new one.

After installing the new flapper, run the dye test again to assure you have no leak. If the leak persists (and every now and then it will), you are probably going to have to replace the entire flush valve. To do this, you will need to turn your water off and disconnect the supply line. Then loosen the bolts that hold the tank to the bowl, remove the tank to bowl seal and remove the flange nut on the bottom side of the tank which holds the flush valve in place. Next purchase a replacement valve assembly, but be sure that the new assembly has an overflow tube at least as tall as the old one. If the new one is taller, then note the correct height from the old one, mark that height on the new one and, using a hack saw, cut it to the proper length. Using new seals, reassemble in the reverse order as used in removing the old valve.

“It only runs in the middle of the night”

Many toilets really do run only at night; that’s because people use much less water during these hours and in many municipal water systems, the water pressure rises considerably during this time. It is not uncommon for system water pressure to rise by 15 to 20 pounds per square inch (psi), and by as much as 30 psi in some situations. This rise in pressure could cause “water creep” inside your gravity fed tank by 1/2 inch or more. That is why the manufacturers of toilets normally suggest that the water level to be set at approximately one inch below the top of the overflow tube.

Water Level in the tank

If you only notice your toilet running in the middle of the night, there is a good chance that the water level in your tank is set too high. Remove your tank lid and observe the water level. If you are doing this in the middle of the night (which, by the way, would be the ideal time to check this out!), and the water is running over the top of the overflow tube, adjust it down using the adjusting screw on the top of the fill valve mechanism (turn clockwise) or the “V” shaped clip on the stiff wire link (slide it down) on the “sliding float” so it’s not overflowing. Then, the following day, make another adjustment down to the one-inch level.

A Guide to Water Heater Types

January 22, 2013

You have a lot to consider when selecting a new water heater for your home.

You should choose a water heating system that will not only provide enough hot water but also that will do so energy efficiently, saving you money. This includes considering the different types of water heaters available and determining the right size and fuel source for your home.

Types of Water Heaters

It’s a good idea to know the different types of water heaters available before you purchase one:

Conventional Storage Water Heaters offer a ready reservoir (storage tank) of hot water
Demand (tankless or instantaneous) Water Heaters heat water directly without the use of a storage tank
Solar Water Heaters use the sun’s heat to provide hot water
Heat Pump Water Heaters move heat from one place to another instead of generating heat directly for providing hot water
Tankless Coil and Indirect Water Heaters use a home’s space heating system to heat water

Selection Criteria

When selecting the best type and model of water heater for your home, consider the following:

Fuel type, availability and cost. The fuel type or energy source you use for water heating will not only affect the water heater’s annual operation costs but also its size and energy efficiency. See below for more on selecting fuel types.
Size. To provide your household with enough hot water and to maximize efficiency, you need a properly sized water heater. Visit the pages on different types of water heaters (linked above) for more on sizing.
Energy efficiency. To maximize your energy and cost savings, you want to know how energy efficient a water heater is before you purchase it. Visit the pages on different types of water heaters (linked above) for more on estimating energy efficiency.
Costs. Before you purchase a water heater, it’s also a good idea to estimate its annual operating costs and compare those costs with other less or more energy-efficient models. Visit the pages on different types of water heaters (linked above) for more on estimating costs.

Also be sure to do what you can to reduce your hot water use. You may also want to explore other strategies such as drain-water heat recovery to save money on your water heating bill.

Fuel Types, Availability, & Costs for Water Heating

When selecting a new water heater, it’s important to consider what fuel type or energy source you will use, including its availability and cost. The fuel used by a water heating system will not only affect annual operation costs but also the water heater’s size and energy efficiency.

Exploring Water Heater Options by Fuel Type

Fuel type and its availability in your area may narrow your water heater choices. The following is a list of water heater options by fuel or energy source:

Electricity: Widely available in the United States to fuel conventional storage, tankless or demand-type, and heat pump water heaters. It also can be used with combination water and space heating systems, which include tankless coil and indirect water heaters.
Fuel oil: Available in some areas of the United States to fuel conventional storage water heaters, and indirect combination water and space heating systems.
Geothermal energy: Available throughout the United States to those who will have or already have a geothermal heat pump system installed in their homes for space heating and cooling.
Natural gas: Available in many areas of the United States to fuel conventional storage and demand (tankless or instantaneous) water heaters, as well as combination water and space heating systems, which include tankless coil and indirect water heaters.
Propane: Available in many areas of the United States to fuel conventional storage and demand (tankless or instantaneous) water heaters, as well as indirect combination water and space heating systems.
Solar energy: Available throughout the United States — most abundantly in the Southwest — for solar water heaters.

Comparing Fuel Costs and Water Heater Types

If you have more than one fuel type available in your area, it’s a good idea to compare fuel costs, especially if you’re building a new home. Even if you’re replacing a water heater, you may find that you’ll save more money in the long run if you use a different fuel or energy source. Contact your utility for current fuel costs or rates.

The type of water heater you choose will also affect your water heating costs. One type of water heater may use a fuel type more efficiently than another type of water heater. For example, an electric heat pump water heater typically is more energy efficient than an electric conventional storage water heater. Also, an electric heat pump water heater might have lower energy costs because of its higher efficiency than a gas-fired conventional storage water heater, even though local natural gas costs might be lower than the electricity rates.

Conventional Storage Water Heaters

Conventional storage water heaters remain the most popular type of water heating system for the home. Here you’ll find basic information about how storage water heaters work; what criteria to use when selecting the right model; and some installation, maintenance, and safety tips.

How They Work

A single-family storage water heater offers a ready reservoir — from 20 to 80 gallons — of hot water. It operates by releasing hot water from the top of the tank when you turn on the hot water tap. To replace that hot water, cold water enters the bottom of the tank, ensuring that the tank is always full.

Conventional storage water heater fuel sources include natural gas, propane, fuel oil, and electricity. Learn more about fuel types available when selecting a new water heater.

Since water is constantly heated in the tank, energy can be wasted even when a hot water tap isn’t running. This is called standby heat loss. Only tankless water heaters — such as demand-type water heaters and tankless coil water heaters — avoid standby heat losses. Some storage water heater models have heavily insulated tank, which significantly reduce standby heat losses and lower annual operating costs. Look for models with tanks that have a thermal resistance (R-Value) of R-12 to R-25.

Gas and oil water heaters also have venting-related energy losses. Two types of water heaters — a fan-assisted gas water heater and an atmospheric sealed-combustion water heater — reduce these losses. Visit the Energy Basics site to learn more about how conventional storage water heaters work.

You might also want to consider some less conventional storage water heaters — heat pump water heaters and solar water heaters. These water heaters are usually more expensive but they typically have lower annual operating costs.

Selecting a Storage Water Heater

The lowest-priced storage water heater may be the most expensive to operate and maintain over its lifetime. While an oversized unit may be alluring, it carries a higher purchase price and increased energy costs due to higher standby energy losses.

Before buying a new storage water heater, consider the following:

Size and first hour rating
Fuel type and availability
Energy efficiency and costs.

Installation & Maintenance

Proper installation and maintenance of your water heater can optimize its energy efficiency.

Proper installation depends on many factors. These factors include fuel type, climate, local building code requirements, and safety issues, especially concerning the combustion of gas- and oil-fired water heaters. Therefore, it’s best to have a qualified plumbing and heating contractor install your storage water heater. Be sure to do the following when selecting a contractor:

Request cost estimates in writing
Ask for references
Check the company with your local Better Business Bureau
See if the company will obtain a local permit if necessary and understands local building codes, etc.

If you’re determined to install it yourself, first consult the water heater’s manufacturer. Manufacturers usually have the necessary installation and instruction manuals. Also, contact your city or town for information about obtaining a permit, if necessary, and about local water heater building codes.

Periodic water heater maintenance can significantly extend your water heater’s life and minimize loss of efficiency. Read your owner’s manual for specific maintenance recommendations.

Routine maintenance for storage water heaters, depending on what type/model you have, may include:

Flushing a quart of water from the storage tank every three months
Checking the temperature and pressure valve every six months
Inspecting the anode rod every three to four years.

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Demand (Tankless or Instantaneous) Water Heaters

Tankless water heaters, also known as demand-type or instantaneous water heaters, provide hot water only as it is needed. They don’t produce the standby energy losses associated with storage water heaters, which can save you money. Here you’ll find basic information about how they work, whether a tankless water heater might be right for your home, and what criteria to use when selecting the right model.

How They Work

Tankless water heaters heat water directly without the use of a storage tank. When a hot water tap is turned on, cold water travels through a pipe into the unit. Either a gas burner or an electric element heats the water. As a result, tankless water heaters deliver a constant supply of hot water. You don’t need to wait for a storage tank to fill up with enough hot water. However, a tankless water heater’s output limits the flow rate.

Typically, tankless water heaters provide hot water at a rate of 2–5 gallons (7.6–15.2 liters) per minute. Gas-fired tankless water heaters produce higher flow rates than electric ones. Sometimes, however, even the largest, gas-fired model cannot supply enough hot water for simultaneous, multiple uses in large households. For example, taking a shower and running the dishwasher at the same time can stretch a tankless water heater to its limit. To overcome this problem, you can install two or more tankless water heaters, connected in parallel for simultaneous demands of hot water. You can also install separate tankless water heaters for appliances — such as a clothes washer or dishwater — that use a lot of hot water in your home.

Other applications for demand water heaters include the following:

Remote bathrooms or hot tubs
Booster for appliances, such as dishwashers or clothes washers
Booster for a solar water heating system.

Advantages & Disadvantages

For homes that use 41 gallons or less of hot water daily, demand water heaters can be 24%–34% more energy efficient than conventional storage tank water heaters. They can be 8%–14% more energy efficient for homes that use a lot of hot water — around 86 gallons per day. You can achieve even greater energy savings of 27%–50% if you install a demand water heater at each hot water outlet. ENERGY STAR® estimates that a typical family can save $100 or more per year with an ENERGY STAR qualified tankless water heater.

The initial cost of a tankless water heater is greater than that of a conventional storage water heater, but tankless water heaters will typically last longer and have lower operating and energy costs, which could offset its higher purchase price. Most tankless water heaters have a life expectancy of more than 20 years. They also have easily replaceable parts that extend their life by many more years. In contrast, storage water heaters last 10–15 years.

Tankless water heaters can avoid the standby heat losses associated with storage water heaters. However, although gas-fired tankless water heaters tend to have higher flow rates than electric ones, they can waste energy if they have a constantly burning pilot light. This can sometimes offset the elimination of standby energy losses when compared to a storage water heater. In a gas-fired storage water heater, the pilot light heats the water in the tank so the energy isn’t wasted.

The cost of operating a pilot light in a tankless water heater varies from model to model. Ask the manufacturer how much gas the pilot light uses for the model you’re considering. If you purchase a model that uses a standing pilot light, you can always turn it off when it’s not in use to save energy. Also consider models that have an intermittent ignition device (IID) instead of a standing pilot light. This device resembles the spark ignition device on some gas kitchen ranges and ovens.

Selecting a Demand Water Heater

Before buying a demand water heater, you also need to consider the following:

Size
Fuel type and availability
Energy efficiency (energy factor)
Costs

Installation & Maintenance

Proper installation and maintenance of your demand water heater can optimize its energy efficiency.

Proper installation depends on many factors. These factors include fuel type, climate, local building code requirements, and safety issues, especially concerning the combustion of gas-fired water heaters. Therefore, it’s best to have a qualified plumbing and heating contractor install your demand water heater. Do the following when selecting a contractor:

Request cost estimates in writing
Ask for references
Check the company with your local Better Business Bureau
See if the company will obtain a local permit if necessary and understands local building codes.

If you’re determined to install your water heater yourself, first consult the manufacturer. Manufacturers usually have the necessary installation and instruction manuals. Also, contact your city or town for information about obtaining a permit, if necessary, and about local water heater installation codes.

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Solar Water Heaters

Solar water heaters—also called solar domestic hot water systems—can be a cost-effective way to generate hot water for your home. They can be used in any climate, and the fuel they use—sunshine—is free.

How They Work

Solar water heating systems include storage tanks and solar collectors. There are two types of solar water heating systems: active, which have circulating pumps and controls, and passive, which don’t.

Most solar water heaters require a well-insulated storage tank. Solar storage tanks have an additional outlet and inlet connected to and from the collector. In two-tank systems, the solar water heater preheats water before it enters the conventional water heater. In one-tank systems, the back-up heater is combined with the solar storage in one tank.

Three types of solar collectors are used for residential applications:

Flat-plate collector: Glazed flat-plate collectors are insulated, weatherproofed boxes that contain a dark absorber plate under one or more glass or plastic (polymer) covers. Unglazed flat-plate collectors—typically used for solar pool heating—have a dark absorber plate, made of metal or polymer, without a cover or enclosure.
Integral collector-storage systems: Also known as ICS or batch systems, they feature one or more black tanks or tubes in an insulated, glazed box. Cold water first passes through the solar collector, which preheats the water. The water then continues on to the conventional backup water heater, providing a reliable source of hot water. They should be installed only in mild-freeze climates because the outdoor pipes could freeze in severe, cold weather.
Evacuated-tube solar collectors: They feature parallel rows of transparent glass tubes. Each tube contains a glass outer tube and metal absorber tube attached to a fin. The fin’s coating absorbs solar energy but inhibits radiative heat loss. These collectors are used more frequently for U.S. commercial applications.

There are two types of active solar water heating systems:

Direct circulation systems: Pumps circulate household water through the collectors and into the home. They work well in climates where it rarely freezes.
Indirect circulation systems: Pumps circulate a non-freezing, heat-transfer fluid through the collectors and a heat exchanger. This heats the water that then flows into the home. They are popular in climates prone to freezing temperatures.

Passive solar water heating systems are typically less expensive than active systems, but they’re usually not as efficient. However, passive systems can be more reliable and may last longer.

There are two basic types of passive systems:

Integral collector-storage passive systems: These work best in areas where temperatures rarely fall below freezing. They also work well in households with significant daytime and evening hot-water needs.
Thermosyphon systems: Water flows through the system when warm water rises as cooler water sinks. The collector must be installed below the storage tank so that warm water will rise into the tank. These systems are reliable, but contractors must pay careful attention to the roof design because of the heavy storage tank. They are usually more expensive than integral collector-storage passive systems.

Solar water heating systems almost always require a backup system for cloudy days and times of increased demand. Conventional storage water heaters usually provide backup and may already be part of the solar system package. A backup system may also be part of the solar collector, such as rooftop tanks with thermosyphon systems. Since an integral-collector storage system already stores hot water in addition to collecting solar heat, it may be packaged with a demand (tankless or instantaneous) water heater for backup.

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Heat Pump Water Heaters

Most homeowners who have heat pumps use them to heat and cool their homes. But a heat pump also can be used to heat water — either as stand-alone water heating system, or as combination water heating and space conditioning system.

How They Work

Heat pump water heaters use electricity to move heat from one place to another instead of generating heat directly. Therefore, they can be two to three times more energy efficient than conventional electric resistance water heaters. To move the heat, heat pumps work like a refrigerator in reverse.

While a refrigerator pulls heat from inside a box and dumps it into the surrounding room, a stand-alone air-source heat pump water heater pulls heat from the surrounding air and dumps it — at a higher temperature — into a tank to heat water. You can purchase a stand-alone heat pump water heating system as an integrated unit with a built-in water storage tank and back-up resistance heating elements. You can also retrofit a heat pump to work with an existing conventional storage water heater.

Heat pump water heaters require installation in locations that remain in the 40º–90ºF (4.4º–32.2ºC) range year-round and provide at least 1,000 cubic feet (28.3 cubic meters) of air space around the water heater. Cool exhaust air can be exhausted to the room or outdoors. Install them in a space with excess heat, such as a furnace room. Heat pump water heaters will not operate efficiently in a cold space. They tend to cool the spaces they are in. You can also install an air-source heat pump system that combines heating, cooling, and water heating. These combination systems pull their heat indoors from the outdoor air in the winter and from the indoor air in the summer. Because they remove heat from the air, any type of air-source heat pump system works more efficiently in a warm climate.

Homeowners primarily install geothermal heat pumps — which draw heat from the ground during the winter and from the indoor air during the summer — for heating and cooling their homes. For water heating, you can add a desuperheater to a geothermal heat pump system. A desuperheater is a small, auxiliary heat exchanger that uses superheated gases from the heat pump’s compressor to heat water. This hot water then circulates through a pipe to the home’s storage water heater tank.

Desuperheaters are also available for tankless or demand-type water heaters. In the summer, the desuperheater uses the excess heat that would otherwise be expelled to the ground. Therefore, when the geothermal heat pump runs frequently during the summer, it can heat all of your water.

During the fall, winter, and spring — when the desuperheater isn’t producing as much excess heat — you’ll need to rely more on your storage or demand water heater to heat the water. Some manufacturers also offer triple-function geothermal heat pump systems, which provide heating, cooling, and hot water. They use a separate heat exchanger to meet all of a household’s hot water needs.

Selecting a Heat Pump Water Heater

Heat pump water heater systems typically have higher initial costs than conventional storage water heaters. However, they have lower operating costs, which can offset their higher purchase and installation prices.

Before buying a heat pump water heating system, you also need to consider the following:

Size and first hour rating
Fuel type and availability
Energy efficiency (energy factor)
Overall costs

If you’re considering installing an integrated water heating, space heating, and cooling heat pump system in your home, also see our information about air-source heat pumps and geothermal heat pumps.

Installation & Maintenance

Proper installation and maintenance of your heat pump water heating system can optimize its energy efficiency.

Proper installation depends on many factors. These factors include fuel type, climate, local building code requirements, and safety issues. Therefore, it’s best to have a qualified plumbing and heating contractor (or geothermal heat pump system installer/designer) install your heat pump.

Do the following when selecting a qualified professional:

Request cost estimates in writing
Ask for references
Check the company with your local Better Business Bureau
See if the company will obtain a local permit if necessary and understands local building codes.

Periodic water heater maintenance can significantly extend your water heater’s life and minimize loss of efficiency. Read your owner’s manual for specific maintenance recommendations.

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Tankless Coil and Indirect Water Heaters

Tankless coil and indirect water heaters use a home’s space heating system to heat water. They’re part of what’s called integrated or combination water and space heating systems.

How They Work

A tankless coil water heater uses a heating coil or heat exchanger installed in a main furnace or boiler.

Whenever a hot water faucet is turned on, the water flows through the heat exchanger. These water heaters provide hot water on demand without a tank, like a demand water heater, but because they rely on the furnace or boiler to heat the water directly, tankless coil water heaters work most efficiently during cold months when the heating system is used regularly. That’s why they can be an inefficient choice for many homes, especially for those in warmer climates.

Indirect water heaters offer a more efficient choice for most homes, even though they require a storage tank. An indirect water heater uses the main furnace or boiler to heat a fluid that’s circulated through a heat exchanger in the storage tank. The energy stored by the water tank allows the furnace to turn off and on less often, which saves energy. Therefore, an indirect water heater is used with a high-efficiency boiler and well-insulated tank can be the least expensive means of providing hot water.

Indirect systems can be fired by gas, oil, propane, electric, solar energy, or a combination of any of these. Tankless systems are typically electric or gas-fired. Also, these integrated or combination water heating systems not only can work with forced air systems but also with hydronic or radiant floor heating systems.

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U.S. Department of Energy – Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy

What’s in My Water?

January 5, 2013

Milky, Cloudy or White Water

Cloudy water is usually caused by tiny air bubbles in the water similar to gas bubbles in carbonated drinks. This usually happens during winter months when air gets mixed into the cold water and then the water is warmed as it sits in household plumbing or hot water heaters. Cold water can hold more air than warm water. When the warmed water is released from a faucet into a glass, the air bubbles rise to the top and the water clears. There is no health risk associated with air in water.

Air can also occur in water after routine repairs to waterlines. If the air does not clear up or if it seems excessive, contact your Water Resources Department.

Chlorine Taste and Odor

We are required by law to provide disinfectant (chlorine) residuals to the taps of our customers to protect the water from harmful bacteria. This may mean that you encounter chlorine-type tastes and odors from time to time. If you find these objectionable, fill a container with water and store it in the refrigerator for drinking. Leave the cap slightly loose and most of the chlorine smell should dissipate.

You can also use a hand-held pitcher with an activated carbon filter to remove chlorine, or install a point-of-use water treatment device on a faucet for your cooking and drinking water. Be certain that the device has been tested by an independent organization for aesthetic (non-health) use. ANSI/NSF Standard 42 establishes minimum requirements for materials, design and construction, and performance of drinking water devices that reduce specific aesthetic-related contaminants in public or private water supplies. These products usually contain activated carbon that can remove many chemicals that affect taste and odor, including chlorine.

Point of use devices contain filter cartridges that must be changed out periodically. Be sure to follow manufacturer’s recommendations to replace the cartridges. If you plan to store water from these devices, treat the water as a food product, and use clean, airtight containers and refrigerate, as the water is no longer protected from bacteriological contamination.

Discolored Water

Yellow, rusty, or brownish colored water is usually due to flow changes in the system that stir up iron and manganese-containing sediments. There are no health-related limits for iron or manganese in drinking water. These minerals, however, can result in staining of white laundry. Items stained by washing in discolored water should not be bleached (this will set the color into the fabric). They should be washed again in clear water. Using a laundry cleaner specifically manufactured for iron removal may be helpful as well. These products are available at most laundry product retailers.

Discolored water can also be the result of in-house plumbing problems, such as the attachment of dissimilar metals like copper and galvanized pipes, or to cracked glass liners in hot water tanks. In general, these in-house discolored water problems will be characterized by a spurt of discolored water when the water is first turned on or will be limited to the hot water.

Rusty water can also occur in the system if there is a change or increase in water flow caused by water main breaks, valve operation, or fire hydrant activation. These activities dislodge small particles of rust and stir up sediments in pipes. It is a temporary condition and should clear up in a couple of hours. The Water Resources Department should be aware of what is happening at any particular time and how long the condition should last. If possible, avoid dish washing or laundry until the condition clears up.

If you experience ongoing discolored water for which you can find no in-house remedy, call your Water Resources Department.

Musty, Moldy, or Earthy Taste or Odor in the Water

Earthy/musty tastes and odors that occur in drinking water can be related to several factors. These taste and odor causing substances can be very difficult to detect at the treatment facility. There are two common causes of a musty, moldy, or earthy taste or odor in the water: bacteria growing in your drain, or certain types of organisms growing in the City’s water supply.

By far, the most common cause of this type of problem is the drain. Over time organic matter (such as hair, soap, and food waste) can accumulate on the walls of the drain. Bacteria can grow on these organic deposits. As the bacteria grow and multiply, they produce gases that can smell musty or moldy. These gases accumulate in the drain until the water is turned on. As the water runs down the drain, the gases are expelled into the air around the sink. It is natural to assume the bad odor is coming from the water because the smell is noticeable only when the water is on. However there is nothing wrong with the water, but the drain may need to be disinfected.

The other cause of this type of taste or odor in the water is much less common and results from certain types of algae, fungi, and bacteria growing in the water supply reservoirs. As these organisms grow and multiply, they excrete small amounts of harmless chemicals into the water that cause a musty, moldy, or earthy taste and odor. The two most common chemicals are geosmin and methylisoborneal (MIB). Although these chemicals are harmless, the human senses of taste and smell are extremely sensitive to them and can detect them in the water at concentrations as low as 5 parts per trillion (nanograms per liter).

Similar “stale” tastes and odors may also occur in distribution lines related to low flow situations. The remedy in this case usually involves flushing out of the affected lines by City crews. Also, anytime plumbing has been unused for a long time, the water can develop an unpleasant taste, so faucets should be run a short time to bring in fresh water. There are no adverse health effects associated with earthy/musty taste and odor substances.

Fluoride

Most Water Resources departments fluoridate the water in all of its treatment facilities. Fluoride is provided at a level of about 1 milligram per liter which provides an optimal level of fluoride for protection against tooth decay.

Pink or Black Residues on Surfaces in Contact with Water

Such residues may occur in showers, toilet bowls or tanks, pet bowls, bath tub toys, coffee reservoirs, cold air humidifiers—on any surface that stays moist and is not cleaned thoroughly and regularly. These are generally the result of biological growth—molds, fungus, bacteria or algae that have originated from the air or the surfaces themselves. These microbes grow well in moist areas and the water that remains in these areas has typically lost its chlorine (disinfectant) through natural reaction or volatilization. The simple remedy is to keep such areas dry and to clean them regularly with a disinfectant solution.

White or Black Particles

These can occur as a result of degradation of hot water tank dip tubes (white) or degradation of faucet gaskets, supply tubing or pipe coatings (black). If the particles are occurring due to these causes, some basic trouble-shooting may help isolate the problem: determine whether the problem occurs only in hot water piping or certain faucets.

My Water is Cloudy and/or Tastes Bad.

Who should I contact?

Contact your Water Resources Department to report concerns about the taste, smell, or appearance of your water. Hydrant flushing may be required to clear lines of cloudy water due to construction or maintenance of water mains.

Is My Water Safe?

Do I need to boil my water or seek an alternate source due to specialized medical needs?

Drinking water as provided by public water suppliers is clarified and disinfected. It is not sterile, however. Those with severely compromised immune systems—advanced AIDS, organ transplant patients, cancer patients on chemotherapy, or those with other conditions that greatly impair the natural immune response may wish to take special precautions regarding the water they consume, such as boiling the water prior to use. To completely eliminate the possibility of any microbial exposure from water are advised, bring water to a full rolling boil for one minute, allow it to cool, and store it in clean, refrigerated conditions. Persons with these concerns are encouraged to seek advice from their physicians.

In the event of a major interruption in water service, such as a water main break, customers may be advised to boil their water. This can happen even in properly treated public water supplies like Greensboro’s. When water service is interrupted and mains are depressurized, there is an increased risk that substances might be drawn into mains through seepage or cross-connections. As a result, in larger outages, systems are required to issue “boil water advisories” until bacteriological sampling shows that the water has not been contaminated. Such sampling usually takes 24 to 48 hours to be completed once water service is restored. The Water Resources Department’s monitoring of the water in such depressurization instances has consistently shown that the water has not been contaminated.

My Family Has Been Sick

How Can I Be Sure My Water is Not the Cause?

With increased public awareness on issues related to health and infectious diseases, the Water Resources Department is occasionally asked whether City water could be the cause of illness. This is highly unlikely, since the City provides water that is treated to high quality standards, uses utmost care in maintaining its distribution system, and adds chlorine at booster stations where needed. In response to such inquiries, however, most Water Resources Department schedules on-site water testing for bacteria and chlorine (disinfectant) residuals, as well as other basic water quality parameters if the customer so desires.

Backflow Prevention FAQ’s

December 29, 2012

Q. What is backflow?

A. The water distribution system is designed to keep the water flowing from the distribution system to you the customer. However, when hydraulic conditions within the system deviate from the “normal” conditions, water flow can be reversed. When this backflow happens, contaminated water can enter the distribution system.

Q. What causes backflow?

A. Backflow is possible in two situations, backsiphonage and backpressure.

Q. What is backsiphonage?

A. When there is a sudden reduction in the water pressure in the distribution system, such as during firefighting or when a water main breaks, water flow can be reversed. This can create a suction effect, drawing the non potable substance into the potable water system.

Q. What is backpressure?

A. Backpressure is created when pressure in a non-potable system, such as in a recirculating system containing soap, acid, or antifreeze, exceeds that in the potable system that provides make up water to the system. This can force the potable water to reverse its direction of flow through the cross connection. Non-potable substances can then enter the potable water system.

Q. How can backflow be prevented?

A. Four methods of backflow prevention are commonly recognized:

Air Gap
Double Check Valve Assembly
Reduced Pressure Principal Assembly
Pressure Vacuum Breaker Assembly

Your local water/sewer authority will determine which type of protection is required based on the degree of hazard that the property represents to the potable water supply.

Q. What is a backflow assembly?

A. A backflow preventer is an approved, testable assembly which uses valves, in different configurations, to prevent polluted or contaminated water from reversing direction and flowing backward.

Q. How is an assembly approved?

A. An approved backflow prevention assembly has gone through an approval process consisting of laboratory/tests and a twelve month field test.

Q. Who is required to have a backflow prevention assembly?

A. Federal and State law require that water suppliers protect their water systems from contamination. State regulations may exempt single family residences used solely for residential purposes from assembly requirements. However, residences used for other purposes, as well as commercial and industrial customers, may be required to install and maintain backflow prevention assemblies. When a determination is made by health official that the potable water system may be subject to contamination through backflow, a backflow prevention assembly will be required. These decisions are made on a case by case basis.

Q. My property is served with reclaimed water. Do I need backflow protection?

A. Yes. Customers receiving reclaimed water must install a Reduced Pressure Assembly (RPA) backflow preventer on all potable water connections, including fire services.

Q. Who can install a backflow prevention assembly?

A. The installation of the backflow prevention assembly should only be done by a licensed professional.

Q. Where should a backflow prevention assembly be located?

A. Generally, the backflow prevention assembly must be located as close as possible to the water service connection, but must remain on private property. A licensed professional can provide information on variances.

Q. Who is responsible for the testing and maintenance of the backflow assembly?

A. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to ensure that the assembly is in satisfactory operating condition at all times. Annual testing is required to stay in compliance. The customer must contact a recognized or licensed Backflow Assembly Tester to perform the test. If any repair work or maintenance is performed on the assembly, a recognized Tester must retest the assembly immediately and submit the test results to your local water/sewer authority.

Do Cold Showers Get You Steamed?

December 18, 2012

Just when your hair is all lathered the hot water runs out —again! Once again, you’re rinsing in water cold enough to make a polar bear shudder.

Being last in line for the shower is a chilling experience, especially if you have an overworked, undersized tank type water heater. Maybe you could just get up earlier in the morning, before the hot water runs out. How does 4 a.m sound?

Or, you cold call Your 1 Plumber, LLC and ask about our Hot Shower Cold Cash offer. Let us install an energy efficient Tankless Water Heater with endless supply of hot water so you never ever run out of hot water again.

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(note: we will not be held responsible if you stay in the shower so long that you come out looking like a prune!)

10 Ways to Improve Your Water Quality

October 14, 2012

There are many streams and rivers that flow through our backyards and drain into ponds, lakes, bays, and ultimately the ocean.

Pollutants such as animal feces, fertilizer, oil, hazardous waste, road sand and grease on the land can be washed into our waters, but we can reduce this type of pollution. Here is a list of 10 things you can do to help clean our local waterways.

Learn about local waters.
Everyone lives in a watershed, which is the drainage area to a local waterbody (think of washing everything in a sink down the drain and the drain is your local river or stream). Figure out what waters are closest to you and where they flow. Learn about local animal life and plants that live in and around these waters.
Don’t feed ducks!
Although you may enjoy feeding geese, ducks, gulls and other waterfowl, remember that they too contribute to the same type of pollution that limits swimming and shellfishing. One bird dropping can contaminate 10,000 gallons of water. Bread and other human food are bad for bird’s digestive tracts too. Feeding waterfowl can also attract larger bird populations and may cause some birds to stop migrating.
Pick up after your pets.
Dog waste and feces from other warm-blooded animals pollute local waterways and are larger polluters than you may think. This type of pollution contributes to the closing of beaches and shellfish beds all over the state. Pick up your pet’s waste and deposit it in a trash can.
Inspect septic systems.
Approximately 1/3 of the state uses some form of septic system for sewage disposal. Failing septic systems or cesspools are a major source of pollution to ground water and local reservoirs. What you flush directly affects the water we drink and the water where we fish, swim, and boat. If you have a septic system, inspect it regularly, pump and repair it as needed. If you have a cesspool, replace it.
Avoid over-fertilizing your lawn.
During rainstorms, nutrients from lawn fertilizer can be washed off lawns and paved areas into local waters. This type of pollution contributes to eutrophication, a process that causes nuisance algal blooms and reduction of habitat and oxygen levels for many aquatic organisms. This leads to a decline in fish and shellfish populations, and reduces the diversity of fish in our waters. Get your soil tested to see if it really needs more fertilizer and if so, use as little as necessary. Read the label on fertilizer packages, apply according to directions, and clean-up any fertilizer left on paved areas. Also, reduce your lawn area by planting native, more drought-tolerant plants that are better adapted for the environment, and can act as buffers to prevent runoff from you lawn.
Minimize the use of hazardous products and recycle as much as possible.
Cleaning and other household products contain many hazardous chemicals. Try to use the least harmful products available. Learn to dispose of household hazardous chemicals properly. Recycling helps to conserve natural resources and reduces the amount of refuse sent to landfills. Start a compost bin and buy products made with or packaged in recycled material to reduce waste further.
Get involved. Volunteer.
Help with clean-up efforts or be a volunteer water monitor. Participate in local activities that benefit the environment. Find out if there is a watershed council near you. If your watershed does not have an association, start one! Other statewide non-profit organizations also need volunteers. Every little bit you do counts! Speak out. Attend public meetings that pertain to water quality. Your participation makes the statement that your community is concerned about local waterways. Public involvement is imperative if your local and state public servants are to help you make large-scale improvements in your watershed. If you see a problem in your area or want something done, say something! If you don’t have time to attend meetings, call or contact a city or town official, or a state representative.
Conserve water.
If you are connected to a public sewer, conserving water will help reduce the discharge from your wastewater treatment facility into local waters. Water conservation helps prevent septic system failures.
Pump it, don’t dump it!
If you own a sailboat or a motorboat have your holding tank emptied at a local pumpout station. Also, if you have an old engine on your motor boat, look into updating it to a new 2-cycle or 4-cycle engine. They are cleaner for the environment and more efficient, which means they are lighter on your wallet!
Get out!
Get out on the water. Swim, sail, surf, kayak, fish, windsurf, coat, shellfish, go birding or walk along the shore. Explore the waters near your home or visit other parts of the state. Make it a point to enjoy the benefits of living near the water, and while you’re out there keep an eye out for problems or pollution sources.

Suggestions from the Rhode Island Department of Environmental Management (DEM)

How to Replace a Toilet

October 4, 2012

A plumbing company helping you replace your own toilet? What will we think of next?!

The “what will we think of next” part is kind of the point of this new feature of our company web site.

You see, it’s one thing to remind you that we’re always looking out for your best interests. Even better, we’re always looking for ways to demonstrate to put some real whallop behind that promise.

So from now, we’ll be featuring one do-it-yourself project per month on our web site. Many of them, of course, will have to do with plumbing…but we won’t stop there. Plus, each time we post new diy project instructions, the previous article will be archived.

So where do we begin? With the most popular and requested plumbing diy project of them all:

How to Replace Your Own Toilet!

Changing your toilet is an easy project that should take half a day or less. The most common toilet has a separate tank that mounts on top of the bowl. These instructions apply most specifically to this type of toilet. If you have an integral tank/bowl toilet, a flush valve or a wall-mounted toilet, your procedure will vary somewhat.

Preparation for the Replacement

Before purchasing your new toilet, measure the distance from the rearmost bowl hold-down bolts to the finished wall behind the toilet. This is called the toilet’s rough-in. Most toilets are designed with a 12″ rough-in. Ask your retailer for help if your rough-in varies.

Check the toilet’s rough-in to be sure it’s the standard 12 inches from the rear hold-down bolts to the finished wall behind the toilet.

The first step is to turn off the toilet’s water supply. Then flush the toilet to empty its tank, holding the trip-lever down to let all the water run out. Sop out any remaining water in the tank and bowl with a sponge–make sure they’re both empty.

Removing the Old Toilet

Use a large, adjustable open-end wrench to unthread the coupling nut between the toilet tank and its water supply. You may need to hold the fill valve with pliers from inside the tank to keep it from turning.
Now you’re ready to remove the original tank. Most are held to the bowl by two long bolts. The nuts are located beneath the flange at the rear of the toilet bowl. Figure shows how to work with these.
With the bolts out, you can lift the tank clear of the bowl.
If your toilet tank mounts to the wall and feeds the bowl with a large, sweeping elbow, first remove the elbow. Use a trap wrench or water pump pliers for the slip jam nuts. Or, you can simply saw the elbow with a hacksaw.
Now you can remove the tank from the wall. As you unscrew the tank from the wall, support it so it doesn’t fall.
Next, take out the toilet bowl. Typically, the bowl is fastened to the floor with two hold-down bolts and nuts beneath trim caps. Some toilet bowls have four hold-downs.
Pry off each trim cap to expose the bolts and nuts.

You can pry off bowl-matching trim caps by lifting under one end with a putty knife or screwdriver.

Unscrew the nuts. If you have trouble, you can saw them off. A mini-hacksaw works best, or you can use a regular hacksaw. To protect the bowl’s finish from the saw teeth, use masking tape.
Now loosen the bowl/seat unit by rocking it to break its seal with the floor and toilet flange. Once loosened, you can lift the bowl and carry it out of the house. Be sure to hold the bowl level to avoid spilling any trap-sealing water. You may need help to lift the tank and bowl together. Lift it properly with your back straight and put the weight on your legs.
Stuff rags in the toilet flange opening to keep sewer gases out of the house and debris out of the soil pipe while you work.

Keep sewer gases out of the house and debris out of the piping by stuffing a rag into the toilet’s floor flange opening.

Preparing to Install the New Toilet

To get ready for the new toilet, first do a complete cleanup. Remove any old putty and wax from the floor and toilet flange. You can use a screwdriver or putty knife. Clean the floor thoroughly in case the new toilet’s footprint is different. Remove the old hold-down bolts–don’t reuse them. You may want to clean and paint the wall behind the toilet. If you’re going to replace the bathroom floor covering, this is an excellent opportunity.
At this point, install any new water supply plumbing you plan to add. A new fixture supply valve and flexible riser tube is easy to install and offers shutoff convenience later. The valve attaches to a short length of water supply pipe coming from the wall or floor. Have the riser tube handy but out of the way of the new tank.

Modern supply valves are compatible with flexible riser tubes for supplying the toilet’s flush water.

Also, inspect the toilet flange for sound condition. It should stick up about 1/2″ from the finished bathroom floor.
Temporarily set the toilet in position on the floor over the flange to check for levelness. Check it front-to-back and side-to-side. If necessary, shim under the bowl with non-rusting metal washers.
Install a new pair of toilet hold-down bolts. If there are holes or slots for the bolts in the toilet flange, they should be inserted in the openings. In a cast iron piping system, the hold-downs screw directly into the wood floor. Whatever the situation, your retailer should have them. Don’t try to use ordinary bolts. Install the bolts so they are the same distance from the rear wall.

Install the hold-down bolts with some putty to make them stand upright in the toilet flange.

Putting in the New Bowl

Toilet installation goes pretty much the reverse of removal. Handle the bowl and tank with care, since they can crack and chip easily.
Start by inverting the new bowl (or bowl/tank unit) onto a thick, protective padding of newspapers on the floor.
Seal the toilet to its soil pipe flange at the floor by placing a ready-made wax toilet ring gasket over the bowl’s outlet horn. The gasket should be room temperature, and the flat face should go against the bowl. If the gasket has a sleeve, it should face away from the bowl. Don’t try to reuse the old gasket–install a new one.

Fix a new wax toilet gasket over the bowl’s outlet horn, with the flat side against the bowl.

Two kinds of wax gaskets are available: those with plastic sleeves and those without.
The bowl-to-floor joint must be sealed around the edge of the bowl’s base, too. You can lay a bead of plumber’s putty so it will be squeezed between the toilet and floor. Or, use about 2 lbs. of plaster. Another choice is to caulk the joint with bathtub caulk/sealant. This is probably the easiest method. Ask your retailer to recommend a good caulk for this.
Remove the rag from the toilet flange opening. Now you’re ready to set the bowl.
Hold the bowl upright several inches off the floor so its outlet horn is directly above the toilet flange. Then lower it gently. The hold-down bolts should pass through their openings in the bowl base, and the wax gasket and toilet flange should meet.

Hold the toilet bowl in position directly above its floor flange, then lower it into place.

To set the bowl onto the floor as well as onto its gasket, rock it carefully from front to back and side to side while pushing down hard. You can rotate it a few degrees each way, too. This forces out the excess wax. As the bowl meets the floor, make sure it is level and square with the rear wall. Don’t raise the bowl from the floor while making adjustments, or you’ll have to go through the setting process all over again and replace the waxing.
Drop washers over the hold-down bolts and thread on the brass nuts. Tighten the nuts finger-tight only. Using a wrench at this point can break the bowl. Re-check both nuts for tightness after several days of use.

Hand-tighten the bowl’s hold-down nuts.

If the bowl has front-mounting holes, install two toilet studs with washers and nuts into the floor for the front two holes.

Installing the Tank

If the toilet tank hardware comes separately, install it. Remember that the trip lever nut probably has left-hand threads.
Now take the rubber spud washer, which fits between the tank and bowl, and set it squarely into the flush valve opening in the bottom of the tank. The washer goes beveled side out. If there is a rubber tank cushion, set that in place on the bowl. Then pick up the tank and lower it gently into place on the back of the bowl.
Install the two long brass tank-mounting bolts from inside the tank, sliding them down through the aligned holes. Place two rubber washers against the tank and bowl. Draw the washers and nuts up gently and evenly until they are snug. This finishes your bowl installation.

Finishing Up

Connect the tank’s water supply to the inlet valve on the bottom left-hand side of the tank (as you face it). You’ll probably have a coupling nut for doing this. The nut threads onto the inlet and works perfectly with a flat-ended riser tube. Don’t use any pipe dope on these threads.
Turn on the water and observe the toilet tank as it fills. If there are any leaks, further tightening should cure them. Check to see that the tank fills to the correct level, about 3/4″ below the top of the overflow tube.
Tighten the bowl hold-down bolts one turn (no more) beyond hand-tight. Cut off the ends, if necessary, and install the trim caps. You can fill their recesses with plumber’s putty (or bathtub caulk/sealant) and press them down over the bolts. Clean up any material that oozes out.
Then, smooth and clean up the excess sealant around the bowl’s base.
Now you can test-flush the toilet, checking for water leaks at the floor.
Install the new toilet seat and tank cover, and your installation is complete.

Need a Little Friendly Advice or Assistance?

If you have trouble with any part of this process, give us a call and if we’re not immediately available to assist you, one of our technicians will return your call at the very first opportunity.

Or, if the project proves to be more than you care to tackle yourself, here’s a $25 savings you can apply to our professional installation services!

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Choosing a Water Heater

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Floor Sump Pump “The Floor Sucker”

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Faucet Replacement: 6 Common Mistakes

1. Forgetting to Turn Off the Water

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Toilet Leaks

A Guide to Water Heater Types

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