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10 Ways to Improve Your Water Quality

October 14, 2012

There are many streams and rivers that flow through our backyards and drain into ponds, lakes, bays, and ultimately the ocean.

Pollutants such as animal feces, fertilizer, oil, hazardous waste, road sand and grease on the land can be washed into our waters, but we can reduce this type of pollution. Here is a list of 10 things you can do to help clean our local waterways.

Learn about local waters.
Everyone lives in a watershed, which is the drainage area to a local waterbody (think of washing everything in a sink down the drain and the drain is your local river or stream). Figure out what waters are closest to you and where they flow. Learn about local animal life and plants that live in and around these waters.
Don’t feed ducks!
Although you may enjoy feeding geese, ducks, gulls and other waterfowl, remember that they too contribute to the same type of pollution that limits swimming and shellfishing. One bird dropping can contaminate 10,000 gallons of water. Bread and other human food are bad for bird’s digestive tracts too. Feeding waterfowl can also attract larger bird populations and may cause some birds to stop migrating.
Pick up after your pets.
Dog waste and feces from other warm-blooded animals pollute local waterways and are larger polluters than you may think. This type of pollution contributes to the closing of beaches and shellfish beds all over the state. Pick up your pet’s waste and deposit it in a trash can.
Inspect septic systems.
Approximately 1/3 of the state uses some form of septic system for sewage disposal. Failing septic systems or cesspools are a major source of pollution to ground water and local reservoirs. What you flush directly affects the water we drink and the water where we fish, swim, and boat. If you have a septic system, inspect it regularly, pump and repair it as needed. If you have a cesspool, replace it.
Avoid over-fertilizing your lawn.
During rainstorms, nutrients from lawn fertilizer can be washed off lawns and paved areas into local waters. This type of pollution contributes to eutrophication, a process that causes nuisance algal blooms and reduction of habitat and oxygen levels for many aquatic organisms. This leads to a decline in fish and shellfish populations, and reduces the diversity of fish in our waters. Get your soil tested to see if it really needs more fertilizer and if so, use as little as necessary. Read the label on fertilizer packages, apply according to directions, and clean-up any fertilizer left on paved areas. Also, reduce your lawn area by planting native, more drought-tolerant plants that are better adapted for the environment, and can act as buffers to prevent runoff from you lawn.
Minimize the use of hazardous products and recycle as much as possible.
Cleaning and other household products contain many hazardous chemicals. Try to use the least harmful products available. Learn to dispose of household hazardous chemicals properly. Recycling helps to conserve natural resources and reduces the amount of refuse sent to landfills. Start a compost bin and buy products made with or packaged in recycled material to reduce waste further.
Get involved. Volunteer.
Help with clean-up efforts or be a volunteer water monitor. Participate in local activities that benefit the environment. Find out if there is a watershed council near you. If your watershed does not have an association, start one! Other statewide non-profit organizations also need volunteers. Every little bit you do counts! Speak out. Attend public meetings that pertain to water quality. Your participation makes the statement that your community is concerned about local waterways. Public involvement is imperative if your local and state public servants are to help you make large-scale improvements in your watershed. If you see a problem in your area or want something done, say something! If you don’t have time to attend meetings, call or contact a city or town official, or a state representative.
Conserve water.
If you are connected to a public sewer, conserving water will help reduce the discharge from your wastewater treatment facility into local waters. Water conservation helps prevent septic system failures.
Pump it, don’t dump it!
If you own a sailboat or a motorboat have your holding tank emptied at a local pumpout station. Also, if you have an old engine on your motor boat, look into updating it to a new 2-cycle or 4-cycle engine. They are cleaner for the environment and more efficient, which means they are lighter on your wallet!
Get out!
Get out on the water. Swim, sail, surf, kayak, fish, windsurf, coat, shellfish, go birding or walk along the shore. Explore the waters near your home or visit other parts of the state. Make it a point to enjoy the benefits of living near the water, and while you’re out there keep an eye out for problems or pollution sources.

Suggestions from the Rhode Island Department of Environmental Management (DEM)

How to Replace a Toilet

October 4, 2012

A plumbing company helping you replace your own toilet? What will we think of next?!

The “what will we think of next” part is kind of the point of this new feature of our company web site.

You see, it’s one thing to remind you that we’re always looking out for your best interests. Even better, we’re always looking for ways to demonstrate to put some real whallop behind that promise.

So from now, we’ll be featuring one do-it-yourself project per month on our web site. Many of them, of course, will have to do with plumbing…but we won’t stop there. Plus, each time we post new diy project instructions, the previous article will be archived.

So where do we begin? With the most popular and requested plumbing diy project of them all:

How to Replace Your Own Toilet!

Changing your toilet is an easy project that should take half a day or less. The most common toilet has a separate tank that mounts on top of the bowl. These instructions apply most specifically to this type of toilet. If you have an integral tank/bowl toilet, a flush valve or a wall-mounted toilet, your procedure will vary somewhat.

Preparation for the Replacement

Before purchasing your new toilet, measure the distance from the rearmost bowl hold-down bolts to the finished wall behind the toilet. This is called the toilet’s rough-in. Most toilets are designed with a 12″ rough-in. Ask your retailer for help if your rough-in varies.

Check the toilet’s rough-in to be sure it’s the standard 12 inches from the rear hold-down bolts to the finished wall behind the toilet.

The first step is to turn off the toilet’s water supply. Then flush the toilet to empty its tank, holding the trip-lever down to let all the water run out. Sop out any remaining water in the tank and bowl with a sponge–make sure they’re both empty.

Removing the Old Toilet

Use a large, adjustable open-end wrench to unthread the coupling nut between the toilet tank and its water supply. You may need to hold the fill valve with pliers from inside the tank to keep it from turning.
Now you’re ready to remove the original tank. Most are held to the bowl by two long bolts. The nuts are located beneath the flange at the rear of the toilet bowl. Figure shows how to work with these.
With the bolts out, you can lift the tank clear of the bowl.
If your toilet tank mounts to the wall and feeds the bowl with a large, sweeping elbow, first remove the elbow. Use a trap wrench or water pump pliers for the slip jam nuts. Or, you can simply saw the elbow with a hacksaw.
Now you can remove the tank from the wall. As you unscrew the tank from the wall, support it so it doesn’t fall.
Next, take out the toilet bowl. Typically, the bowl is fastened to the floor with two hold-down bolts and nuts beneath trim caps. Some toilet bowls have four hold-downs.
Pry off each trim cap to expose the bolts and nuts.

You can pry off bowl-matching trim caps by lifting under one end with a putty knife or screwdriver.

Unscrew the nuts. If you have trouble, you can saw them off. A mini-hacksaw works best, or you can use a regular hacksaw. To protect the bowl’s finish from the saw teeth, use masking tape.
Now loosen the bowl/seat unit by rocking it to break its seal with the floor and toilet flange. Once loosened, you can lift the bowl and carry it out of the house. Be sure to hold the bowl level to avoid spilling any trap-sealing water. You may need help to lift the tank and bowl together. Lift it properly with your back straight and put the weight on your legs.
Stuff rags in the toilet flange opening to keep sewer gases out of the house and debris out of the soil pipe while you work.

Keep sewer gases out of the house and debris out of the piping by stuffing a rag into the toilet’s floor flange opening.

Preparing to Install the New Toilet

To get ready for the new toilet, first do a complete cleanup. Remove any old putty and wax from the floor and toilet flange. You can use a screwdriver or putty knife. Clean the floor thoroughly in case the new toilet’s footprint is different. Remove the old hold-down bolts–don’t reuse them. You may want to clean and paint the wall behind the toilet. If you’re going to replace the bathroom floor covering, this is an excellent opportunity.
At this point, install any new water supply plumbing you plan to add. A new fixture supply valve and flexible riser tube is easy to install and offers shutoff convenience later. The valve attaches to a short length of water supply pipe coming from the wall or floor. Have the riser tube handy but out of the way of the new tank.

Modern supply valves are compatible with flexible riser tubes for supplying the toilet’s flush water.

Also, inspect the toilet flange for sound condition. It should stick up about 1/2″ from the finished bathroom floor.
Temporarily set the toilet in position on the floor over the flange to check for levelness. Check it front-to-back and side-to-side. If necessary, shim under the bowl with non-rusting metal washers.
Install a new pair of toilet hold-down bolts. If there are holes or slots for the bolts in the toilet flange, they should be inserted in the openings. In a cast iron piping system, the hold-downs screw directly into the wood floor. Whatever the situation, your retailer should have them. Don’t try to use ordinary bolts. Install the bolts so they are the same distance from the rear wall.

Install the hold-down bolts with some putty to make them stand upright in the toilet flange.

Putting in the New Bowl

Toilet installation goes pretty much the reverse of removal. Handle the bowl and tank with care, since they can crack and chip easily.
Start by inverting the new bowl (or bowl/tank unit) onto a thick, protective padding of newspapers on the floor.
Seal the toilet to its soil pipe flange at the floor by placing a ready-made wax toilet ring gasket over the bowl’s outlet horn. The gasket should be room temperature, and the flat face should go against the bowl. If the gasket has a sleeve, it should face away from the bowl. Don’t try to reuse the old gasket–install a new one.

Fix a new wax toilet gasket over the bowl’s outlet horn, with the flat side against the bowl.

Two kinds of wax gaskets are available: those with plastic sleeves and those without.
The bowl-to-floor joint must be sealed around the edge of the bowl’s base, too. You can lay a bead of plumber’s putty so it will be squeezed between the toilet and floor. Or, use about 2 lbs. of plaster. Another choice is to caulk the joint with bathtub caulk/sealant. This is probably the easiest method. Ask your retailer to recommend a good caulk for this.
Remove the rag from the toilet flange opening. Now you’re ready to set the bowl.
Hold the bowl upright several inches off the floor so its outlet horn is directly above the toilet flange. Then lower it gently. The hold-down bolts should pass through their openings in the bowl base, and the wax gasket and toilet flange should meet.

Hold the toilet bowl in position directly above its floor flange, then lower it into place.

To set the bowl onto the floor as well as onto its gasket, rock it carefully from front to back and side to side while pushing down hard. You can rotate it a few degrees each way, too. This forces out the excess wax. As the bowl meets the floor, make sure it is level and square with the rear wall. Don’t raise the bowl from the floor while making adjustments, or you’ll have to go through the setting process all over again and replace the waxing.
Drop washers over the hold-down bolts and thread on the brass nuts. Tighten the nuts finger-tight only. Using a wrench at this point can break the bowl. Re-check both nuts for tightness after several days of use.

Hand-tighten the bowl’s hold-down nuts.

If the bowl has front-mounting holes, install two toilet studs with washers and nuts into the floor for the front two holes.

Installing the Tank

If the toilet tank hardware comes separately, install it. Remember that the trip lever nut probably has left-hand threads.
Now take the rubber spud washer, which fits between the tank and bowl, and set it squarely into the flush valve opening in the bottom of the tank. The washer goes beveled side out. If there is a rubber tank cushion, set that in place on the bowl. Then pick up the tank and lower it gently into place on the back of the bowl.
Install the two long brass tank-mounting bolts from inside the tank, sliding them down through the aligned holes. Place two rubber washers against the tank and bowl. Draw the washers and nuts up gently and evenly until they are snug. This finishes your bowl installation.

Finishing Up

Connect the tank’s water supply to the inlet valve on the bottom left-hand side of the tank (as you face it). You’ll probably have a coupling nut for doing this. The nut threads onto the inlet and works perfectly with a flat-ended riser tube. Don’t use any pipe dope on these threads.
Turn on the water and observe the toilet tank as it fills. If there are any leaks, further tightening should cure them. Check to see that the tank fills to the correct level, about 3/4″ below the top of the overflow tube.
Tighten the bowl hold-down bolts one turn (no more) beyond hand-tight. Cut off the ends, if necessary, and install the trim caps. You can fill their recesses with plumber’s putty (or bathtub caulk/sealant) and press them down over the bolts. Clean up any material that oozes out.
Then, smooth and clean up the excess sealant around the bowl’s base.
Now you can test-flush the toilet, checking for water leaks at the floor.
Install the new toilet seat and tank cover, and your installation is complete.

Need a Little Friendly Advice or Assistance?

If you have trouble with any part of this process, give us a call and if we’re not immediately available to assist you, one of our technicians will return your call at the very first opportunity.

Or, if the project proves to be more than you care to tackle yourself, here’s a $25 savings you can apply to our professional installation services!

Understanding Water Meters

September 30, 2012

What is a Unit of Water?

Water usage is measured by consumption units. One consumption unit is the same as 748.5 gallons or 100 cubic feet. A container five feet long by five feet wide and four feet high holds one consumption unit.

Why is My Consumption so High?

Consumption may be high for many reasons. If a bill is estimated too low for a length of time, an actual meter reading may result in a large increase. More people may be living in the household. During the summer, water consumption may be higher because you are watering the lawn or garden, or an outside hose may be left on. In commercial situations, you may have water-cooled air conditioning or your business may have increased or changed adding to water usage. Often, consumption may be high because of leaky plumbing.

Customers often think the meter is not working right causing high readings. To test the accuracy of your meter, use the following procedure:

Run water until the test dial (the red sweep hand located on the face of the meter) points to zero. The test hand will be straight up in the 12 o’clock position when it is on zero. Fill a one-gallon container with water. Check the position of the red test dial. It should measure .1333 cubic feet. (See illustration of meter face below.)

How Can I Tell if I Have any Water Leaks?

Newer types of water meters have a leak indicator on the face of the dial. It is a triangular or diamond-shaped indicator that revolves 354 times for every gallon of water that passes through the meter. (Note: You may see what looks like water on the face of the dial. It is oil that prevents corrosion and increases the life of the dial mechanism. It does not enter the water supply and does not affect the quality of the water delivered to the customer.)

To check for leaks, look at the indicator when no one is drawing water. It should not be moving. If it is moving, check every plumbing fixture at the property, i.e., toilet, sink, outside sprinkler, washer, etc. Shut off the valves that supply each fixture, one by one, and check the indicator after each shutoff. When closing a valve stops the indicator from moving, or slows its movement, you have found the location of a leak. There may be more than one leak!

Be sure to check toilets at the property! Toilet leaks are the most common and are hard to see or hear. Put food coloring or laundry bluing in the toilet tank and wait 10 minutes. Do not flush the toilet during this time. If the coloring appears in the toilet bowl, there is a toilet leak. Also, if you hear the toilet refilling and no one has used it, there is a leak. A major toilet leak can waste 800 cubic feet of water a day — which in some areas could cost up to $5.00 for water and $12.00 for sewer each day. That adds up quickly!

Look for leaky faucets, too. A fast drip from a faucet wastes about 265 gallons a day — which in some municipalities would cost 40 cents for water and $ .92 for sewer per day. That’s over $40 a month! Repair leaky faucets and toilets promptly — do it yourself or call a plumber because these leaks cost money.

Once the leak is repaired, check the leak indicator again and make sure all leaks are repaired.

Safety Tips for Flood Damage

September 12, 2012

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) recommends several safety tips to the victims of floods. This safety alert illustrates some dangerous practices which consumers may be tempted to engage in during efforts to rebuild or while staying in temporary housing, tents or partially damaged homes. This information is provided in an effort to prevent injuries and deaths from consumer products as flood survivors make new beginnings. “We hope this information helps prevent product-related injuries and deaths during these difficult times.”

Do not use electrical appliances that have been wet.

Water can damage the motors in electrical appliances, such as furnaces, freezers, refrigerators, washing machines, and dryers.

If electrical appliances have been under water, have them dried out and reconditioned by a qualified service repairman. Do not turn on damaged electrical appliances because the electrical parts can become grounded and pose an electric shock hazard or overheat and cause a fire. Before flipping a switch or plugging in an appliance, have an electrician check the house wiring and appliance to make sure it is safe to use.

Electricity and water don’t mix.

Use a ground-fault circuit-interrupter (GFCI) to help prevent electrocutions and electric shock injuries. Portable GFCIs require no tools to install and are available at prices ranging from $12 to $30.

Types of Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters Include:

Receptacle
Circuit Breaker
Portable Plug-in
Portable Cord Type

When using a “wet-dry vacuum cleaner,” be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions to avoid electric shock.

Do not allow the power cord connections to become wet. Do not remove or bypass the ground pin on a three-prong plug. Use a GFCI to prevent electrocution.

Never remove or bypass the ground pin on a three-pronged plug in order to insert it into a non-grounding outlet.

Never allow the connection between the machine’s power cord and the three-wire grounded extension cord to lie in water.

To prevent a gas explosion and fire, have gas appliances (natural gas and LP gas) inspected and cleaned after flooding.

If gas appliances have been under water, have them inspected and cleaned and their gas controls replaced, if necessary. The gas company or a qualified appliance repair person or plumber should do this work. Water can damage gas controls so that safety features are blocked, even if the gas controls appear to operate properly. If you suspect a gas leak, don’t light a match, use any electrical appliances, turn lights on or off, or use the phone. These may produce sparks. Sniff for gas leaks, starting at the water heater. If you smell gas or hear gas escaping, turn off the main valve. Open windows, leave the area immediately, and call the gas company or a qualified appliance repair person or plumber for repairs. Never store flammable materials near any gas appliance or equipment.

Check to make sure your smoke detector is functioning.

Smoke detectors can save your life in a fire. Check to make sure the smoke detector is working properly near any electrical equipment such as HVAC equipment, washer and dryer units, and water heaters that could have been damage during flooding

Wet carpet and other furnishings can lead to the growth of biological pollutants.

Bacteria, fungi, and dust mites can grow on wet surfaces. If furnishings have been under water, they must be thrown out or steam-cleaned and dried thoroughly.

Throw out water-damaged mattresses, wicker furniture, straw baskets and the like because they may contain mold. These items cannot be recovered.
Throw out any water-damaged furnishings such as carpets, drapes, stuffed toys, upholstered furniture and ceiling tiles, unless they can be restored by steam cleaning or hot water washing and thorough drying.
Remove and replace wet insulation to prevent conditions where biological pollutants can grow.

U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission

Low Water Usage Toilets

June 28, 2012

The truth about high-efficiency toilets… not your father’s low flow…

Problems with first-generation “low flow” toilets were infamous in the early 1990s. Some consumers complained that the toilets clogged too often, needed several flushes to clear the bowl, or caused problems with their home plumbing.

Although later generations of water-saving toilets have resolved such issues, misconceptions have persisted and kept many consumers from saving both water and money. With new designs and technological advancements, today’s high-efficiency toilets use less than 1.3 gallons per flush and perform as well as—or better than—conventional, less efficient models.

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s (EPA’s) WaterSense program is making it easy for consumers to identify high-efficiency toilets in the marketplace.

Toilets that are certified by independent, third-party testing to meet EPA’s rigorous criteria for both efficiency and performance can earn the WaterSense label.

Look for WaterSense labeled toilets and don’t let these myths keep you from saving water and saving money!

MYTH: Low-flow = Poor Performance

FACT: WATERSENSE LABELED TOILETS GET THE JOB DONE.

Many tend to associate lower flow with lower flushing power. Not true. New technology and design advancements, such as pressure-assisted flushers and modifications to bowl contours allow high-efficiency toilets to flush better than first-generation low-flow toilets. All WaterSense labeled toilets have met EPA’s efficiency and performance requirements, meaning double-flushing and clogging should not be an issue (but remember—any toilet will clog if used as a trash can).

MYTH: High-efficiency Toilets Cause Problems with Home Plumbing Systems

FACT: WATERSENSE LABELED TOILETS MEET OR EXCEED PLUMBING STANDARDS.

Some consumers worry that lower flows may back up pipes and ruin home plumbing. There is no need to worry. WaterSense labeled high-efficiency toilets meet or exceed all national plumbing
standards required of all toilets.

MYTH: High-Efficiency Toilets Are Too Expensive

FACT: WITH THE POTENTIAL FOR REBATES AND LOWER WATER BILLS, WATERSENSE LABELED TOILETS CAN SAVE YOU MORE MONEY THAN YOU THINK.

Considering the potential savings on water bills, it could be more costly not to purchase a WaterSense labeled toilet. Also, many local utilities offer rebates ranging from $25 to more than $200 to replace older toilets with new, water-efficient models. In many cases, with cost savings and rebates, a WaterSense labeled toilet can pay for itself in only a few years.

MYTH: High-Efficiency Toilets Are Not Available in the Style I Want

FACT: WATERSENSE LABELED TOILETS ARE AVAILABLE IN A WIDE RANGE OF MODELS.

Numerous WaterSense labeled toilets are already available at retailers in many regions in a range of styles for standard to high-end bathrooms. EPA’s WaterSense label helps consumers easily identify high-performing, high-efficiency toilets, so look for the WaterSense label and start saving water while you upgrade your bathroom!

Can You Tell Fact from Fiction?

FICTION	FACT
All low-flow toilets need multiple flushes and often clog.	WaterSense labeled toilets must meet strict criteria for water efficiency and flushing performance
Lower flows lead to problems with home plumbing systems.	WaterSense labeled toilets meet or exceed national plumbing performance standards.
WaterSense labeled toilets cost more than other toilets.	With cost savings on water bills and potential rebate options, WaterSense labeled toilets can be cheaper than other, less efficient models.

Source: Environmental Protection Agency

A Guide to Sump Pumps

June 11, 2012

Sump pumps are employed to help prevent basement flooding. The protection they offer is especially important in finished basements containing recreation rooms, offices and bedrooms.

As the water table rises and falls through the seasons, the pump collects excess water and moves it away from your home’s foundation. A variety of pumps and sizes are available including water powered and battery powered back up models for use in areas prone to power outages. We’ll be happy to evaluate your needs and help you select the correct sump pump for your home.

The sump pump has recently become more important especially in newer homes since the Federal Clean Water Act no longer allows builders in many municipalities to drain rainwater collected by gutters into sewerage systems. Water collected on the roof of your home and drained by your gutters can cause flooding if it is not carried carried far enough away from your foundation.

Checking Your Sump Pump

It is important to check your sump pump regularly to make sure that it is in proper working condition.

Remove the cover and slowly pour water into the sump tank. Watch for the “float” to rise and trigger the pump. Once the pump is engaged, the water level will quickly lower and the float will shut off the pump. This is what is called “a normal sump cycle”.

Most problems with the sump pump are float related. Learn about the importance of backup sump pumps and having a reliable sump pump backup system.

Sump Pump Problems Can Be Easily Avoided

Many of us take for granted that we have a sump pump and that it works effectively. Some of us don’t even know what a sump pump looks like, but when a water problem arises in our home, we soon realize their importance. Although sump pumps have a lifespan of 5 to 7 years, they may fail unexpectedly for various reasons.

One of the most common causes for sump pump failure is an electrical power outage. To safeguard yourself from this potential situation, it is wise to have a backup generator that can be manually activated. This measure alone, however, is not a guarantee against sump pump problems. It is also possible that your primary pump can mechanically fail and a generator cannot help in this situation.

Choosing the correct size for your home will ensure maximum life expectancy for your sump pump.

Installing a sump pump must be done right. It is of utmost importance that the manufacturer’s instructions be carefully followed for the installation in order to avoid severe water damage down the road. The sump pump pit should not be set in dirt or gravel as this can cause debris to enter your pump. Debris can result in interference with the pump’s on/off switch or the float arm

Sump Pump Float Switches

Level Control

The most common function of a sump pump is to protect a basement from flooding. The pump is activated when water reaches a certain level in the sump tank and pumps out the excess water.

The float switch is the part of the sump pump that activates the pump when water reaches a certain threshold. It is therefore an essential element to avoid flooding. The float switch is usually the first part of a sump pump to break, so it is recommended to choose a sump pump whose float switch is easily replaceable.

1. Diaphragm Switch

The diaphragm switch is a popular type for professionals and is also the most expensive. The entire sump pump is immersed under water and on it is a membrane that is sensitive to water pressure. As the water level rises, the water pressure increases and the diaphragm becomes concave, thereby activating the switch to turn on the sump pump. When the water level drops, the switch turns off. Since there is no float, there is nothing to get stuck, which is a common problem with other types of sump pumps.

2. Vertical Action Float

This type of switch is recommended because it is not as expensive as the diaphragm switch and it is superior to the tethered float. The float is a ball that floats above the water. As the water level rises so does the float which, at some point, will trigger the switch to turn on the pump. This float has limited movement up and down a vertical rod thereby giving it less freedom of movement and less of a chance to get stuck as the tethered float does for example. Vertical float switches are often of better quality than tethered floats and usually carry a longer warranty.

3. Tethered Float

The tethered float is the most common and is used for pedestal sump pumps. The float hangs from the pump and floats on the water. As the water rises, so does the float and the switch is triggered. Common problems related to the tethered float include the float accumulating grime and causing it to lose buoyancy and even sink. Another common problem is that the float gets stuck to the inner wall or pump and as a result, when the water rises in the sump tank, the float may stay submerged and fail to activate the pump. Pedestal sump pumps have the added advantage of having the electrical unit above the water level. Other types are submerged and involve more risk of electrical accidents.

4. Electronic “Flood Free” switch

There is a fourth type of switch that can be used. It is electric and has no actual float. Instead, a probe wire is placed to sense the presence of water and is activated when it becomes submerged by rising water. A second probe wire can also be placed at a higher level to set off an alarm switch or another backup pump. This particular switch can be used in many types of applications.

Mercury Poisoning

If you use a sump pump in a tank containing water that you may use for drinking, make sure that your float switch is not made of mercury. There are two types of tethered float switches, some are made of mercury (which is cheaper) and others of steel. It is hard to tell the ball of mercury apart from the ball of steel.

Backup Sump Pump

How do you know if you need a backup sump pump? Well, if your basement floods during the winter months and you live in an area where floods and thunderstorms usually knock out the power, then you may want to look into buying a backup sump pump that can work on its own power. A sump pump that runs on its power is considered to be a support pump. That is to say, it is used together with your primary pump. Should your primary pump fail, this back up sump pump will start.

There are two types of backup sump pumps, one that runs on a rechargeable 12 Volt battery and one that is hooked up to your house’s water system and operates with water pressure.

Backup System Can Protect your Home in a Power Outage

When a powerful storm passes through cities and towns, very often it takes with it the entire neighborhood’s power supply. In the event of a power outage, people are left with no light, no heat and no running water; but a home is also left with a disabled sump pump. A sump pump is your home’s first line of defense against groundwater that could potentially enter your home and cause destruction. To ensure that your home is not left vulnerable after a loss of power, install a reliable backup system for your sump pump that will allow it to continue working. Read on for more information about the benefits of generators and battery-powered backup systems.

A Battery Backup Sump Pump System

A battery-operated backup sump pump system looks a lot like an oversized car battery. When the power is on in the house, a battery system will automatically charge itself. The backup pump is activated by a sensor that is located slightly higher than the one for the main pump. In the event of an emergency, when water rises above the level of the backup sensor, the backup system uses its DC power to turn itself on. Depending on the particular model of battery-powered backup system, there is generally enough power to keep your sump pump working for several hours. The batteries come in two different styles: sealed and unsealed. A sealed battery is considered maintenance-free and usually supplies power for 3 to 3 1/2 hours. An unsealed battery has ports that you can open in order to check the level of the fluid and add distilled water as you see fit. Typically, an unsealed battery will last for about 7 hours.

A Generator Backup System

When buying a generator, it is crucial that you choose one that has enough power to actually run a sump pump in the case of an emergency. For example, a small sump pump requires 800 – 1000 watts with a surge to 1200 – 1800 watts. All generators have a maximum and rated output. The maximum output should never be sustained for more than 25 to 30 minutes at a time. Most generators are gasoline-powered, a few run on diesel, and some models have multi-fuel capabilities – running on gasoline, propane or natural gas. These are generally full-featured machines with engine idle control, GFCI receptacles and 120 Volt full power switch.

The Necessity for a Sump Pump Backup

Unfortunately, problems do arise with sump pumps and when your sump pump stops working, your home becomes vulnerable to water damage. Once your sump pump has been installed, do not assume that it will always effectively do its job. You would be wise to install a reliable sump pump backup, as well as routinely check on your pump during bad weather and every few months.

Electric Level Controls for Sump Pumps

Floods can surprise any homeowner at any time. This unexpected act of nature can cause severe damage to property along with huge headaches for the ill-prepared. Your first line of defense should be a sump pump. And if just installing a sump pump is not quite enough protection, equip them with modern technology that can handle any type of flood problem. Let’s explore how a handful of sump pump accessories can help protect you in ways that were inconceivable a few decades ago.

Flood-Free Electronic Level Control Pumps

Flood Free Electronic Level Control Pumps monitor and control the water level, thanks to an electronic float switch. A Floodfree pump switch can be adapted to any manual sump pump for automatic operation. There are no floats;only probe wires are in use. A Floodfree Switch eliminates pump damage caused by defective float or diaphragm controls, and will not be affected by floating debris. The most common cause of basement flooding is attributable to float control failure. Floats can get stuck, float switches can fail, and rubber can get stiff and dry rotted, all of which can prevent proper functioning of a sump pump. A Floodfree switch lets you determine the amount of water to let into the sump (high water level) as well as the amount of water to let out (low level).

SumpWatcher

The SumpWatcher is made from polyester. It is an “Electronic Float” that replaces the traditional float switch on a sump pump. Since it has no moving parts, it cannot get stuck, corrode, wear out, or fail like a regular mechanical float switch. The SumpWatcher will turn the pump on and off, monitor the motor current to the pump and alert you if it is drawing too much current. If the SumpWatcher should become overwhelmed with incoming water, not function properly, or detect a particular problem, it will alert you. The SumpWatcher will test the pump motor on a daily basis to ensure proper operation.

Dual Float Level Switch Deluxe

Dual float means dual protection from float switch failure. Industrial strength electronics means an extended life span compared to ordinary float switches. The controller monitors pump and power conditions, and will sound an alarm should a problem arise. It begins the pumping cycle when either of the floats rises by 1/4″, and runs the pump an additional 10 seconds after the float returns to its original position. When a warning signal sounds, a light will appear on the front panel of the controller indicating the nature of the problem detected. A light will blink continuously to assure you that the controller is functioning properly. A light will also remind you when the battery is low or when to turn the slide switch back to the ON position. The Dual Float Level Switch deluxe will also sound an alarm when the float has been raised for 10 consecutive minutes. This would indicate a potential pump or plumbing problem. A remote terminal provides a connection to a home security system or remote dialer.

PumpGuard

The PumpGuard eliminates the threat of flooding caused by a faulty pump switch. This innovative pump protection system features an alarm override circuit and switch that will sound an alarm as well as override your primary pump switch and run your pump in the event of switch failure. The PumpGuard is designed to be used with a fully automatic 115V sump or sewage pump using a two-cord piggyback switch system. The PumpGuard can be combined with an optional dialer for remote alert and an optional battery back-up system for a more secure flood protection.

Scalding Takes Seconds

April 8, 2012

With the average water heater settings, it only takes five seconds to cause a third degree burn.

Most home water heaters are set at 140°F to provide sufficient hot water and prevent the growth of Legionella and other harmful bacteria. At this temperature it only takes five seconds to cause a third degree burn. Children and the elderly have a thinner outer skin, so it takes half as long as adults to cause serious injury.

“Each year, approximately 3,800 injuries and 34 deaths occur in the home due to scalding from excessively hot tap water. The majority of these accidents involve the elderly and children under the age of five.”
– U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission

Fortunately, tap water scalding accidents are 100% preventable! When you have a thermostatic mixing valve installed in your home, you can maintain water temperatures sufficiently high to prevent Legionella, and also limit tap and bath water temperatures to prevent scalding.

Water Temperature	Time Needed to Cause 3rd Degree Burns
155°F	1 Second
148°F	2 Seconds
140°F	5 Seconds
133°F	15 Seconds
127°F	60 Seconds
124°F	3 Minutes
120°F	5 Minutes

Source: Moritz, A.R., Herriques, F.C. Jr. Studies of thermal injuries: II The relative importance of time and surface temperature in the causation of cutaneous burns. Am J Pathol 1947; 23:695-720.
© 2006 Service Roundtable

How to Repair a Leaky Faucet

March 30, 2012

Are you a do-it-yourselfer? Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to repair a leaky faucet.

Step 1. Locate the Leak

Begin by inspecting the faucet to locate the leak. A loose packing nut probably causes a leak at the base of the handle. If water is leaking from the faucet, chances are a washer is worn and needs replacing. Turn off the water to the faucet at the turn-off valve and close the drain so small parts can’t slip down while working.

Step 2. Remove the Valve Unit

Remove any decorative caps from the cold or hot handles.

Unscrew the handles and remove them. Use smooth-jaw pliers to loosen the packing nut located under the handle. Now remove the entire valve unit and be sure to line up the parts in the order that you remove them so you can reassemble the faucet correctly.

Step 3. Replace a Worn or Damaged Washer

Inside the valve unit you will find a rubber washer held in place with a screw.

Loosen the screw and remove the washer. Check to see if the washer is worn or damaged. If it needs to be replaced make sure to match the size and thickness of the washer exactly. Place the valve unit back into the faucet, tighten the packing nut and replace the handle. Finally, turn the water back on and check for leaks.

Don’t Have Time to Fix it Yourself?

At Your 1 Plumber, we ALWAYS have time for great customers like you, and that includes answering your questions about repairing your leaky faucet over the phone. It’s all part of our expanded customer service capabilities.

Or, if you simply don’t have the time – or patience! – to fix it yourself, just give us a call and you’ll save $25 with the coupon below.

Stay tuned next month for another do-it-yourself project to help you save money on your plumbing and other household repairs.

Typical Residential Water Use

March 27, 2012

How do you use your water? Here’s a breakdown of the typical residential water use in the USA.

Water Use	Percentage
Lawns and gardens	36%
Showers and baths	20%
Toilets	19%
Clothes and dish washing	16%
Potable uses	9%

How to Stop a Running Toilet

March 26, 2012

If you’re hearing the water in your toilet run constantly or it seems to just turn on and off whenever it wants, you can often fix it yourself.

For starters, the flap inside your toilet could be stuck open. Take the top off the back of your toilet and look to see if the little flap inside is seated and sealed or if it’s stuck open. The flapper is a little rubber gasket that sits in the bottom your tank. It will have a lever or a chain that is connected to it, which connects it to the toilet handle in most cases.

You Can’t Stop a Train, But You Can Stop a Running Toilet!

If it’s open, simply adjust it to seal it properly. The flap is made of rubber or another soft material that is prone to damage and dry-rotting over time. If it looks like it’s been damaged, you should replace it. With extensive damage, water will slip past the flap and keep running until you replace.

If the flap is sealed properly, next check the chain. Is it twisted, bunched up or caught on anything? If so, it probably isn’t letting the flapper seal right. Straighten it out and see if that helps. You will also see a rod. Is it bent? Again, if it is, you should be able to straighten it out pretty easily.

Then there’s your float mechanism. Lift it up and see if the toilet stops running. If it does then you found you problem. To fix the problem, adjust the arm a little at a time. If you happen to water inside the ball, you’ll need to replace it.

If none of the above seems to help, Your 1 Plumber can help you with that or any other home plumbing problem you might have. Contact us today, because Your 1 Plumber is the only one you’ll ever need.

Water Quality

March 11, 2012

Water quality is commonly defined by its physical, chemical, biological and aesthetic characteristics.

A healthy environment is one in which the water quality supports a rich and varied community of organisms and protects public health. Water quality in a body of water influences the way in which communities use the water for activities, such as:

Supplying drinking water.
Recreation.
Irrigating crops and watering stock.
Industrial processes.
Navigation and shipping.
Production of edible fish, shellfish and crustaceans.
Protection of aquatic ecosystems.
Wildlife habitats.
Scientific study and education.

The Office of Ground Water and Drinking Water (OGWDW), together with states, tribes, and its many partners, protects public health by ensuring safe drinking water and protecting ground water. OGWDW, along with EPA’s ten regional drinking water programs, oversees implementation of the Safe Drinking Water Act, which is the national law safeguarding tap water in America.

Go to Local Drinking Water Information for more information on your local drinking water system.

Even Small Water Leaks Can Spell Serious Damage

March 5, 2012

The first signs of water damage might seem trivial – a drip here, a drop there – nothing that can’t be dried with a towel.

But warnings like water stains on the ceilings or a leak under the kitchen sink can lead to real problems like a weakened roof or rotten floorboards. A burst pipe can damage your furniture and other personal possessions, and flooding can very quickly lead to problems with mold.

But what about those leaks that aren’t so easy to spot? Water leaks can happen anywhere in your home

Signs that you may have a pipe leak:

Water bills that seem unusually high.
Water meter readings changing when not using water.
Sewer backup problems that become chronic.
Running toilets and dripping faucets.
Running water sounds when nothing is in use.
Spongy, soft, or discolored walls.
Musty odors from floors, walls near drains, or sewers.
Cracked, or unusually damp foundation or slab.
Warm areas on concrete floors, mildew, or excessive moisture under carpets.
In the yard, particularly wet or moist areas that are unusually wet or moist, often with very healthy (or unusual) plant or grass growth.

Other water leak indicators:

Refrigerator – If you have a built-in icemaker, you have a built-in potential floor messer! In fact, the wet spots you see on the floor might indicate a crimped icemaker line and, if it’s crimped, it’s just waiting to burst. Anytime you move your refrigerator, check for water. The smaller the water accumulation, the more damaging the problem can be. That’s because water could be penetrating into your sub-flooring where major structural damage can occur before you even know what’s going on.

Hot Water Service – The telltale sign? Wet spots surrounding the base. Probable cause? Internal rust or leaking valves. So check your HWS often, and make sure it has a floor drain beneath it if it is installed inside your home or at a minimum an automatic shut-off device.

Locating and Repairing the Leak.

Have you recently noticed any signs of water leaks? Then contact Your 1 Plumber today. With our electronic pipe leak equipment, we can pinpoint pipe leaks anywhere…including inside walls, under your floors, and underneath concrete slabs.

Better still, we can do so without ripping up any of these surfaces, and then make the proper repairs while helping you save time, money, and aggravation.

How to Prevent Water Damage

February 6, 2012

When it comes to minor drips and leaks around the house, you might not think anything of it. You just wipe it up and carry on with your day. However, these little leaks may be the start of a larger problem and could lead to serious water damage.

Warnings such as stains on the ceiling or a leak under your sink can lead to major problems such as rotting floorboards. A burst pipe can damage your furniture and other personal possessions, as well as lead to problems with mold.

Now Your 1 Plumber offers you some friendly advice on how you can check for signs of water damage and what you can do to help prevent it.

The Bathroom

What better place to start than the one “room” in your home that’s all about water?

Showers and Bathtubs: Remove and replace deteriorated or cracked caulk and grout. Water from a broken supply pipe behind the wall can leak through these damaged sealants, causing stains or soft areas around nearby walls and floors. Leaking drainpipes and shower pan leaks are also common sources of water damage. If necessary, contact a plumber or contractor for help.
Sinks: Check under the sink for leaks from water supply lines or drainpipes. If necessary, contact a plumber or contractor for help.
Toilets: Clogs can result from too much toilet paper or objects such as hanging bowl deodorants. Also, some chlorine tablet cleaners may corrode internal plastic or rubber parts, leading to a leak. Again, don’t hesitate to call in a professional.

The Kitchen

The kitchen is another place with a whole lot of water. Look carefully at your major appliances, and make sure they are up to par.

The Dishwasher: Periodically check for leaks under the sink where the hose connects to the water supply. Look around the base of the dishwasher for evidence of leaks, such as discolored, warped, or soft flooring materials, or water damage to nearby cabinets.
The Refrigerator: If your refrigerator has an icemaker, make sure the hose connection is securely attached to the water supply line. Also, a wet spot on the floor may be a sign of a crimped icemaker line about to burst.
The Sink: Replace deteriorated caulk around sinks, and check the pipes under the sink for leaks. A slow-draining pipe may indicate a partially blocked drain that needs cleaning.

The Basement, Laundry, or Utility Room

Talk about big water consumers!

Washing Machine: Check hoses regularly for bulging, cracking, fraying, and leaks around hose ends. Replace the hose if a problem is found or at least every 3 to 5 years as part of a proactive maintenance program. To help make sure the hose doesn’t kink, leave at least 4 inches between the water connection and the back of the washing machine. Be sure to read the manufacturer’s installation instructions carefully.

Water Heater: Most water heaters last 8 to 15 years. Wet spots on the floor or a rusted tank may signal a leak. Water heaters should be installed on the lowest level of the home, next to a floor drain, or inside a drain pan piped to the floor drain.
Sump Pump: Battery-operated backup sump pumps can help protect against power failure or failure of the primary pump. Test the sump pump before the start of each wet season. Sump pumps are not intended to last more than 10 years and must have some components replaced or serviced within those 10 years.

Since water still may enter your home through overflowing drains or cracks in the foundation walls, make sure items stored in the basement are kept off the floor. Furniture should be on casters or shims and arranged away from floor drains.

Whole-House Plumbing Inspection

February 6, 2012

Nobody likes to wake up in the morning, step out of bed, and feel wet, squishy flooring under their feet.

Plumbing is one of those luxuries that we tend to take for granted until the day that you can’t flush your toilet or take a hot shower. Chances are that you never thought about having a plumber out until it gets to that emergency status of a flood, backed up drain, or no hot water.

Much like you should see the doctor every year; your plumbing system needs the same attention and care. The best way to prevent a plumbing disaster is to have regular, thorough whole house plumbing inspections. Most people don’t realize that this service even exists. It does, and it can save you many headaches down the road.

When was the last time you were under your crawlspace to check and make sure that nothing was leaking? How about flushing your water heater flushed as required by the manufacturer on an annual basis? Have you had the water pressure checked, ever?

At Your 1 Plumber, we specialize in whole-house plumbing inspections for your family’s greater comfort, convenience, and safety.

During our inspection, we cover all plumbing fixtures and systems, inside and out. We pay particular attention to existing problems or warning signs that one or more problems could be approaching. Once our inspection is completed, we’ll present you with a written report including, where and when appropriate, repair and upgrade recommendations.

Here’s just some of what our inspection includes for your improved plumbing and your family’s safety:

Leaks in exposed pipes.

Signs of corrosion that could indicate water or pipe issues.
Water pressure…if it’s too low, there could be problems in your water lines or built-up sediment.
Speed of drainage in sink and tub drains…if water is draining too slowly, it could mean you have a clogged drain or blocked vent pipe.
Water heater gas leaks…to help ensure your family’s safety and the integrity of your water heater. In the process, we also drain the unit to remove sediment that’s settled to the bottom. Sediment build-up can cause hard water conditions and leaks in your faucets.

And that’s just a small sampling of what our whole-house inspection includes. For added peace of mind, contact Your 1 Plumber to schedule your inspection today.

We look forward to this and every opportunity to assist you.

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